Four wheel drive question

[MattB703]

Originally Posted by haverfordfords

Yes, but according to that FAQ it seems that we need 2 of BOTH anyway? Is that true?

Well, you should need a total of 4 big sprockets, one for each wheel, and a total of 4 small sprockets, 2 on each geabox output. Then you will put 4 separate chains, one to each wheel. You could run with only 1 sprocket on each output and use one longer chain to turn both wheels on that side but I'd advise against it. You would need to make a semi elaborate idler system to get an adequate (more that 150°) of chain wrap on the drive sprocket.

[Paul Copioli]

Quote:
Originally Posted by haverfordfords
Yes, but according to that FAQ it seems that we need 2 of BOTH anyway? Is that true?



Well, you should need a total of 4 big sprockets, one for each wheel, and a total of 4 small sprockets, 2 on each geabox output. Then you will put 4 separate chains, one to each wheel. You could run with only 1 sprocket on each output and use one longer chain to turn both wheels on that side but I'd advise against it. You would need to make a semi elaborate idler system to get an adequate (more that 150°) of chain wrap on the drive sprocket.

In either case, you need more than just the wheel sprockets. For the 4 chain option (two per transmission) as documented in the kit you need four output sprockets (two per transmission). For the two chain option (one per transmission), you will need at least one idler per side.

Bottom line, for four wheel drive you need more hardware than just two more wheel sprockets. That is why IFI packaged the sprockets together.

-Paul

[BlazinFire47]

well.... you can forsay create your own 4-wheel drive system you know.... but it does involve lots of build time and 3 weeks have passed now.... to keep it sweet and simple.... 4-wheel drive will not a big issue this year.... i forsee that most teams will be using 2 wheel drive or swerve.... so if it is easier right now use 2- wheel drive for the timeframe we have right now...

[caffel]

Use MSC Direct or McMaster Carr or KartWorld.com.
Buy # 35 chain plate sprockets (no hub needed).
Drill a circle of holes using the wheel flange as a template.
Bolt directly to the wheel flanges.
Requires a chain tensioner or having one shaft movable to keep tension on the chain.

Charlie, Team 487

[Paul Copioli]

Use MSC Direct or McMaster Carr or KartWorld.com.
Buy # 35 chain plate sprockets (no hub needed).
Drill a circle of holes using the wheel flange as a template.
Bolt directly to the wheel flanges.

No! You can not use just plate sprockets. The #35 chain will rub against the wheel if you do not have the hub on the sprocket. The hub (1/4" hub projection) on the kit sprocket is the shortest I recommend and still have the chain be a safe distance away from the wheel.

-Paul

[Max Lobovsky]

Originally Posted by Paul Copioli

No! You can not use just plate sprockets. The #35 chain will rub against the wheel if you do not have the hub on the sprocket. The hub (1/4" hub projection) on the kit sprocket is the shortest I recommend and still have the chain be a safe distance away from the wheel.

-Paul

Then simply add a spacer on your bolts.

[JVN]

Originally Posted by Max Lobovsky

Then simply add a spacer on your bolts.

I recommend the following spacer, if you take this approach.
It will put your chain out a safe distance from the skyway wheel.
The OD of the spacer will fit into the hex indents on the wheel hub.

Spacer – 10-32 Screw, 5/16” OD, 9/16” Length
McMaster Part No. - 94639A786

John