Team 1527 Chassis/Electrical/Pneumatics Design...

[cdennisxlx2]

Well since the season started i set my students loose in Inventor again, and between our 3 groups we have come up with this base design, there are still some things missing but there is plenty of room, when we get the arm/actuator designs done ill post them as well.

-Design View Number 1-
-Design View Number 2-
-Design View Number 3-

Also we used the KOP Transmission in the design simply because we don't have our 2-speed transmission drawings at the moment till we get them off a busted comp :/

tell me what you think of it

[Tom Line]

I jealous! That's some good looking and fast work!

We haven't even discussed what type of drive train we are going to use - we spent Saturday doing inventory and get the controls system wired and running on the test bench.

One suggestion - if you moved the cims and gearboxes to the empty space in front, and put the compressor between them, you could drop your electronics board down significantly, distribute the weight more evenly, and lower the entire center of gravity of the machine. I think that is going to be an important consideration this year.

[jacob07]

any ideas for the material that you are going to use for holding your spikes victors, etc.?

BTW Looks awesome and how quickly you got it done is Amazing!

[Al Skierkiewicz]

Cameron,
The only thing I see that stands out is the distance between the terminal blocks, breaker panels and speed controllers. Length=loss so a prudent design would be to move things to be more direct and closer for these high current devices.

[Pavan Dave]

I would like to see some "shielding" for the speed controllers as well as the spikes and some of the other electronics. You don't want these expensive mandatory pieces of equipment breaking in your first match because your electronics were in the line of fire.

[cdennisxlx2]

the placement was thought of carefully, with the arm we are going to use we looked at weight and COG.

the victors/spikes are mounted on 1/4" polycarb strips

the distance is actually really close the only thing we might do is mount the din rail on the bottom of the electrical/pneumatics box, that way all electrical is with in a 12x12x12 area except of course for our actuator motors

As for protection we are going to have a shell over this all so that wont be a issue

[Po-ser]

Those are some really nice drawings! I'm really impressed by your team's work. The only thing I might comment on: those look like strips of Lexan on the outside of your chassis. Are you cantilevering your wheels and simply using the Lexan for lightweight protection or do you plan to support the shafts by drilling holes in the Lexan and fitting them in? I can't really tell from the drawings. We used Lexan outer plates to support shafts two years back and had a horrible time with them flexing. We thought that it might save us some weight, but it just ended up being a big pain. Since then I think we've limited our use of Lexan to covers and mounting plates for electronics.

Just a thought!

[cdennisxlx2]

they are just for lightweight protection, not supporting at all

[CidTeach]

Just a question for you's guys - how/what is the best way to mount the BaneBots dual CIM motor tranny directly to the aluminum IFI rims(those multi piece really expensive rims with the riveted rubber tracks)...
Im trying to avoid machining little parts for that connection.

perhaps a slotted sleeve to mate with the output shafts keyway?
thanks

[cdennisxlx2]

Originally Posted by CidTeach

Just a question for you's guys - how/what is the best way to mount the BaneBots dual CIM motor tranny directly to the aluminum IFI rims(those multi piece really expensive rims with the riveted rubber tracks)...
Im trying to avoid machining little parts for that connection.

perhaps a slotted sleeve to mate with the output shafts keyway?
thanks

So your using a banebot transmission from last years kit with the 2 cim modification?
or are you talking about the 2008 KOP transmissions?

and your mounting these ..
to the output shaft of the transmission, correct? Well what we did last year was we used a small sprocket that had set screws to replace one of the bearings on the wheels, what i would suggest would be to make a keyed hub that bolts to the wheels it would work better then set screws and you wont need to use loctite