Essential Electrical Tools

[Akash Rastogi]

Let's compose a list of essential tools (and even some more fancy things) that all teams should have or are nice to have. Suggestions for specific brands/products are great too.

What I've personally been looking for is a complete set of electrical tools, but I can't seem to find an electrical set other than testing kits. Most stuff just has write strippers, crimpers, cutters, and needle-nose pliers.

Other things that probably don't come as part of the kits are soldering irons and such. If you can find a kit that does have this, that'd be great.

[Jamie Kalb]

It's essential to have a crimper, unless you want to solder everything (is this even legal/viable for FRC?). I'd highly recommend a ratcheting crimper, like this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#69555k62/=55yx44. $46.61 at mcmaster-carr. It's been working great for us.

[Andrew Schreiber]

Crimpers, for sure. Akash, take a look at http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=9466 Should contain most stuff you need. Really more for embedded electronics but most of the stuff will work fine for FRC use.

[Akash Rastogi]

Originally Posted by Andrew Schreiber

Crimpers, for sure. Akash, take a look at http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=9466 Should contain most stuff you need. Really more for embedded electronics but most of the stuff will work fine for FRC use.

Ah that's exactly the kind of simple kit I was looking for. We want to purchase about 5 of these for the classroom as well as 2 or 3 for the team. Thanks!

How well does liquid flux work? Never tried liquid flux before.

[DonRotolo]

You must be used to solder that has a flux core. Wasn't always that way.

Liquid (or paste) flux is just that, and you brush a little of it onto what you need to solder, then heat & apply solder. Radio Shack sells both I believe.

It comes in real handy when soldering large wires (you don't need to melt 8" of solder to get enough flux in there) or wires that are a little bit less than shiny-new (these don't take to solder very well; a little dab makes them wet out like fresh copper). Also handy when soldering PC Boards; solder doesn't bridge across traces/pads when there is enough flux. Super handy for surface mount ICs to get rid of solder bridges too.

Just be sure the flux is electronics (e.g., Rosin) type and NOT "acid" flux (which is only good for plumbing, it'll destroy your electronics very quickly).

[Akash Rastogi]

Originally Posted by Don Rotolo

You must be used to solder that has a flux core. Wasn't always that way.

Liquid (or paste) flux is just that, and you brush a little of it onto what you need to solder, then heat & apply solder. Radio Shack sells both I believe.

It comes in real handy when soldering large wires (you don't need to melt 8" of solder to get enough flux in there) or wires that are a little bit less than shiny-new (these don't take to solder very well; a little dab makes them wet out like fresh copper). Also handy when soldering PC Boards; solder doesn't bridge across traces/pads when there is enough flux. Super handy for surface mount ICs to get rid of solder bridges too.

Just be sure the flux is electronics (e.g., Rosin) type and NOT "acid" flux (which is only good for plumbing, it'll destroy your electronics very quickly).

Haha sorry I meant specifically the liquid stuff, I always use paste even with solder with flux core.

[Al Skierkiewicz]

Ted,
Just to be a little more clear, lead free solder may be required in specific regionals that are restricted by local codes but not all. However, machining (cutting, drilling, filing) lead used for counter weight or other robot parts is prohibited in the pits for obvious reasons. I have recommended that all regionals and lead robot inspectors enforce a rule that any lead used on the robot must be sealed in a conformal coating (paint or equivalent) so that contact with the material is minimal. In most cases we will turn to the UL Safety Inspectors for guidance on local codes.

From the 2009 Q&A
Lead-free solder
Posted by FRC386 at 01/08/2009 04:53:57 pm
Is lead-free solder required when building the robot? We note that the Safety Manual mentions the "NEW" requirement to use lead-free solder "at the event." The competition,however, is silent on the subject. Are all soldered joints going to be tested for the presence of lead? Additional discussion on the subject might be useful Re-soldering a lead-containing joint, or example, can be very messy and difficult. The old solder must be completely removed and the required heat when using the lead-free stuff is significantly higher.
Re: Lead-free solder
Posted by GDC at 01/12/2009 10:47:48 pm
No, it is not a required item for all soldered joints. Note that teams are urged to use their best engineering judgement and take all appropriate precautions whenever using any hazardous materials while in their home fabrication facilities.

[lynca]

This thread is somewhat related to my question,

I'm looking for sets of tools. I find that harbor freight has decent quality tool sets of screws, wire & small hardware.

For example, our team used this StoreHouse 1/4-20 set from HarborFreight heavily
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92806

However, I'm having trouble finding sets for other size screws (10-32, 8-32, 6-32)

Does anyone know a way to look at other StoreHouse catalog items, I'm having no luck with google searching Feel free to post any similar brands and such.

[sanddrag]

Originally Posted by Jamie Kalb

It's essential to have a crimper, unless you want to solder everything (is this even legal/viable for FRC?). I'd highly recommend a ratcheting crimper, like this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#69555k62/=55yx44. $46.61 at mcmaster-carr. It's been working great for us.

This one is basically the same at much less cost: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97420 I've had zero problems with this inexpensive unit, works great.

As for brands, Klien, Thomas&Betts, Knipex, Xuron, and Xcellite are all excellent brands.

Flush cutters are a must. Xuron ones are nice. For battery cables, I like a cutter like this http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

For a soldering iron, you can't go wrong with a Weller adjustable temperature station. For solder, I like AlplaMetals 60/40 Rosin Core http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...LAID=109368558

For the lugs on battery and main power cables, a small pencil torch is sometimes handy.

A good assortment of cable ties and heat shrink is a must. And a heat gun for shrinking it.

I can't recommend a specific brand of stripper, but you'll definitely need at least one.

I would NOT recommend a Multi-function tool like this: http://doitbest.com/Main.aspx?PageID...paign=DATAFEED
Does everything, but none of them well at all.

If you want to make your own PWM cables, you'll most certainly need this http://www.hansenhobbies.com/product...ools/crimp_ec/ and the connectors http://www.hansenhobbies.com/product...rvoconnectors/

[Dillon Compton]

I'd say the Leatherman Kick. Nice, simple multi-tool. Grip-edges are plastic lined, so you don't get metal biting into your hand. Screwdrivers are of the appropriate size for most FRC stuff. One knife blade. Pliers. Pliers have a cutting section with a divet to act as a wire stripper and you can (with a bit of practice) effectively crimp any connector using the pliers. I rarely use anything else when doing my electronics work. It's about $25 or $30 at Home Depot.

[Ted Weisse]

Originally Posted by sanddrag

For solder, I like AlplaMetals 60/40 Rosin Core http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...LAID=109368558

Just a quick note...At your home location you can use solder with Lead but in the pits solder MUST BE LEAD FREE.

Ace Hardware: http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...Id=44566603623

Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062723

[dlavery]

Originally Posted by Ted Weisse

Just a quick note...At your home location you can use solder with Lead but in the pits solder MUST BE LEAD FREE.

Can you cite a rule about that? I recognize that this is generally accepted as good practice, and generally a good habit to follow. However, I am not aware (after a quick check through the released version of Chapter 3) that it is an explicit rule.

I don't mean to be pedantic, but as we get ready for the build season I think that we need to get in the habit of being very clear about things that really are rules (with some type of associated authority) and things that are "really good ideas."

-dave



....

[Ted Weisse]

Originally Posted by dlavery

Can you cite a rule about that? I recognize that this is generally accepted as good practice, and generally a good habit to follow. However, I am not aware (after a quick check through the released version of Chapter 3) that it is an explicit rule.

I don't mean to be pedantic, but as we get ready for the build season I think that we need to get in the habit of being very clear about things that really are rules (with some type of associated authority) and things that are "really good ideas."

-dave



....

I also went through all of the past manuals and could not find a reference to the lead free solder then I remembered it is in the Safety Manual... http://usfirst.org/uploadedFiles/Com...y%20Manual.pdf

Copied from page 6:


SOLDERING

Soldering can be dangerous because of the heat from the iron and the chemical fumes and
vapors released from the solder and flux, respectively. When soldering, observe the following
points:

 NEW - At FIRST events: Use lead-free solder only and solder with electrically heated
soldering iron/gun only.
 No torches or open flames of any kind are allowed in the buildings.

 Wear eye and face protection.

 Solder in well-ventilated areas.
 Never touch the iron/gun. It heats to extreme temperatures that will cause severe burns.
 Prevent burns: Wear cotton clothing that covers your arms and legs.
 Always wash your hands with soap and water after handling solder.
 Work on a fire resistant surface.
 Keep your soldering iron in its protective holder when not actually being used.
 Do not leave any hot tools, such as a hot drill bit, where someone can accidentally contact the hot element.

I usually site the actual rule in my answers and do apologize for not citing the spot the rule could be found this time. I found that the UL Safety People at the competitions do enforce this, at least at all of the regionals I have attended.

ted yz

[dtengineering]

Originally Posted by Jamie Kalb

It's essential to have a crimper, unless you want to solder everything (is this even legal/viable for FRC?).

Yes... we crimp AND solder... everything. In six years we've had one bad connection... and that was to the 40A fuse block, where we couldn't solder.

(Okay... which would have been VERY difficult to solder.)

Personally I like to use a little butane torch for soldering the big cables.

Jason

Edit: A clamp-on DC ammeter is really nice to have, too.
Edit #2: Yes, I know a proper crimp should be more than reliable... but we've got lots of hands to make the extra soldering work fairly light. It's just cheap insurance.

[Andrew Schreiber]

Originally Posted by dtengineering

Yes... we crimp AND solder... everything. In six years we've had one bad connection... and that was to the 40A fuse block, where we couldn't solder.

(Okay... which would have been VERY difficult to solder.)

Personally I like to use a little butane torch for soldering the big cables.

Jason

Edit: A clamp-on DC ammeter is really nice to have, too.
Edit #2: Yes, I know a proper crimp should be more than reliable... but we've got lots of hands to make the extra soldering work fairly light. It's just cheap insurance.

Nothing wrong with redundancy.

Nothing wrong with having a backup.

Also, it pays to be sure.

(I'm sorry, I had to)