|
|
|
![]() |
|
|||||||
|
||||||||
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Rate Thread | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Testing pneumatics?
We are trying to test our pneumatic system layout without using the controller programing right now. We are trying to simply use batteries and switches to control the compressor and solenoids. Once we have the system working properly we plan to integrate the programing and controllers. The pneumatics currently work as planned if we use the manual levers, but we have had no luck when trying to energize the solenoid using a battery (Tried both 12 and 24V). The indicator light comes on but the valve is not switched. Is this a reasonable way to test these solenoids or do they need to be hooked to the controller and the solenoid breakout panel.
We have tried both the festo double acting solenoid and the single acting. Same results. The manual switching opens and closes the valve, but the battery just lights up the light with no movement of the valve. Any help would be much appreciated. |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Testing pneumatics?
are you using the plastic solenoid or the metal?
|
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Testing pneumatics?
We have tried both this the metal double acting
![]() and this one the older plastic single acting ![]() and have had similar results with both. The images are from team358's website team358.org |
|
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: Testing pneumatics?
The valves require a minimum air pressure to activate... I know when we try things at a "nice safe" low pressure, that the valves don't budge. 25+ psi seems to do the trick.
Don't know... but that might be the problem.... Jason |
|
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: Testing pneumatics?
Good point Jason.
The metal one runs on 24v. you connect the wires from one end momentarily to power, it will light up the light on that side, and shift the valve (if it was not already that direction). Then try momentarily connecting the wires from the other end to power. It should momentarily light the light and shift the valve to the other side, making the cylinder move to the other ends of it's travel and stay there. The plastic one runs on 12v. It works differently, it will make the cylinder move and stay at the other end of it's travel while you have power applied to the solenoid, then it will move back when you remove power from it. |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Testing pneumatics?
I know when we were first trying it we were at the "Safe Low Pressure", but then we thought that might be the issue as Jason stated so we bumped the pressure up to 60 psig with no luck. These valves are not externally piloted or anything like that are they.
If using the plastic valve I should be able to just put pressure into the port 1 then energize it by either Wiring A: 1 – Negative 2 – Positive 3 – Not required Wiring B: 1 – Positive 2 – Not required 3 – Negative (Seems to be two different ways of wiring depending on the type) Using a 12 volt battery and I should get the valve to move from its initial configuration of ports 1-2,3-4 to 1-4,3-2. Right? |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Testing pneumatics?
We managed to get both solenoids working. We had to wire the 12 volt plastic one different than the data sheet suggested. If wired by the data sheet the indicator light lit up yellow, but when we switch the wiring it lit up green and worked properly.
As for the 24v solenoid the battery we were using to test it was about out of juice. We recharged it and it seems to work now. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | Rate This Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Motor Testing | Lancer Robotics | Motors | 24 | 22-10-2008 18:16 |
| [FVG]: Testing | Mike Ciance | FIRST-related Organizations | 1 | 13-07-2004 05:54 |
| Testing | Jack | Website Design/Showcase | 0 | 27-12-2002 22:14 |
| testing | archiver | 2001 | 0 | 24-06-2002 00:58 |
| testing | team222badbrad | Chit-Chat | 5 | 15-01-2002 09:49 |