pic: Prototype Chassis

[Alex Cormier]

loading photo ...

[nnfuller]

well tell us what your machining capabilities are? Because I might consider lightening the Lexan if you have a mill or even a simple hole saw... but thats just me. Have you stress analyzed this at all?

[Chris is me]

Originally Posted by nnfuller

well tell us what your machining capabilities are? Because I might consider lightening the Lexan if you have a mill or even a simple hole saw... but thats just me. Have you stress analyzed this at all?

You can do it with a step drill bit and a hand drill if you have to, though I would feel more comfortable lightening 3/8" polycarbonate rather than 1/4".

Unless the bottom lexan is being used primarily to stiffen the frame, you could get away with a 1/8" lexan bottom to save weight you'd need for 3/8" lexan sides.

Looks pretty cool!

[Alex Cormier]

Originally Posted by nnfuller

well tell us what your machining capabilities are? Because I might consider lightening the Lexan if you have a mill or even a simple hole saw... but thats just me. Have you stress analyzed this at all?

The reason I went with 1/4" lexan instead of 1/8" aluminum is weight and time. With going with lexan, you don't need to do cheese holes. I have not done any stress analysis. This type of chassis with lexan sides has been proven for many years with 1126. Take a quick look into my pictures for reference. I like to design chassis that anyone can build. This is easily built for teams in a wood shop with very basic tools.

Originally Posted by chris is me

Unless the bottom lexan is being used primarily to stiffen the frame, you could get away with a 1/8" lexan bottom to save weight you'd need for 3/8" lexan sides.

I just stayed with 1/4" lexan because that what we have in the shop at the moment. I am sure we could get away with 1/8" instead. It does have 4 mounting points on the front and rear rails and 2 points per inside rail.

[sdcantrell56]

Originally Posted by Alex Cormier

Take a quick look into my pictures for reference. I like to design chassis that anyone can build. This is easily built for teams in a wood shop with very basic tools.

Based on this comment why not looking into building the chassis from baltic birch plywood. It is even lighter than lexan and in my opinion much easier to machine and assemble. Simple wood glue and brads/screws and you can have a chassis built in a couple hours.

[Alex Cormier]

Originally Posted by sdcantrell56

Based on this comment why not looking into building the chassis from baltic birch plywood. It is even lighter than lexan and in my opinion much easier to machine and assemble. Simple wood glue and brads/screws and you can have a chassis built in a couple hours.

I have not built or prototyped a wooden chassis before but, I have built many of these metal ones. Plus, IMHO I don't allow that much wood on my robot. I will say the wooden chassis do look good if done proper.

There are some tricks in the bag for 2011 FLR. (That is if I am able to stay on 3181 because of employment and because of the game) You will see a never before seen chassis arrive at FLR. )