|
|
|
![]() |
|
|||||||
|
||||||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Rate Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
Also, if you want, I can send the cad files for a very simple drivetrain and chassis that we put together.
Here is a photo: ![]() |
|
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
The simplest, most reliable, easiest to fix and cheapest to build drivetrain we ever built was also our best performer.
It took seven years to get to this point... we used composites, the kitbot (which was pretty good actually), TIG welded aluminum tubing (which was better)... And my favorite was this one, seen here airborne and with its twin. Jason |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
Quote:
|
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
http://www.simbotics.org/media/videos/presentations
If nothing else, you can build a super easy drivetrain like the one above, that is also "better than 90-95% of teams". Certainly better than the tank drive and very simple. |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: The Frame thread
I'm curious what exact belts and pulleys you're using. Looks like it would be for a large supercharger.
|
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
Quote:
We do have sheet metal capabilities, so I would be interested if any of the team IFI teams could show us how they do their frames, or just any sheet-metal teams. I wonder if anyone has done carbon fiber, or other "space age" material frames... |
|
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() This drive train was an absolute tank. Everything shown in the top CAD model (chassis, gearboxes, wheels, chain, etc) came out to 37.4 lbs. Each of our 2-speed gearboxes (custom ones made from a la carte AndyMark gears) weighed less than a stock ToughBox, and were geared for speeds of 6 ft/sec and 16 ft/sec at nominal load. The center shaft is direct-driven from the gearbox output, with the end two wheels being powered by 25p roller chain. All shafts are 1/2" 12L14 steel hex, with all shafts being live axle (it's the simplest way to power Colson wheels). Except for the custom sheet metal and COTS AndyMark parts, all other fabricated parts could be made on a manual lathe. Even without a belly pan, this chassis was extremely rigid and had no noticeable flex. Once assembled during the build season and run through its initial break in period, we haven't touched it. Nothing broke, nothing needed adjusting, nothing needed replacement. Edit: If you're interested, I've posted the CAD model of our entire 2011 robot to CD-Media. PROTIP: If you can't get powder-coating, use enamel spray paint. If you properly clean all parts ahead of time (e.g. use acetone) and let the paint cure for at least 24 hours, it's nearly as durable as powder-coating and much cheaper. Last edited by artdutra04 : 02-05-2011 at 15:04. |
|
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
I can't figure out how to get them up ... can you help me
![]() thx |
|
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
Quote:
|
|
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
Quote:
![]() Last edited by akoscielski3 : 02-05-2011 at 15:18. |
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: The Frame thread
Quote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robosta...7626347607815/ |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | Rate This Thread |
|
|