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(Copied from a thread I created to here, so it will be easier to find in the future. Also updated the code to correct a typo in the comments that described the available variables in user_routines.c.)
I'm hoping this may be of use to some teams out there who'd like to be able to control their ne...
(Copied from a thread I created to here, so it will be easier to find in the future. Also updated the code to correct a typo in the comments that described the available variables in user_routines.c.)
I'm hoping this may be of use to some teams out there who'd like to be able to control their new 2004 EDU RC with a previous year's OI. What we've done is to connect the serial port on the 2003 EDU RC to the serial port on the 2004 EDU RC, and then modified the code for each so that the 2003 EDU RC simply acts as a forwarding device to send the joystick & button data from the OI into the 2004 EDU RC. Essentially, the 2003 EDU RC becomes a fancy radio modem.
There are only 2 pieces of hardware that you'll need to duplicate this setup. First is a special serial cable to connect the 2 RCs. This serial cable needs to only have 3 wires and connect the pins like this:
2003 RC 2004 RC Pin 2 <------> Pin 3 Pin 3 <------> Pin 2 Pin 5 <------> Pin 5
1069102768educode_oi.zip
20-11-2003 13:26
Joe Johnson
I really like this idea. Nice job.
Concerning power to both EDU RC's, I propose switching right now to hobbyist batteries and chargers.
We have made a small harness that goes from the EDU RC's battery plug to a plug that a standard hobbyist (Remote Control RC) battery can plug into.
There are a lot of reasons this is a good idea but the main ones are
#1 Typical RC batteries are cheaper and have larger capacity (1800mAHours are pretty standard, 2400mAHour versions available) than Innovation First batteries AND
# 2 RC chargers are faster, cheaper and better than the Innovation First chargers (and also can run off of a 12V battery, which means we can charge the EDU batteries using a standard FIRST battery -- no AC required!).
Given this white paper, we will probably make a Y connector to power both EDU RC from a single RC battery.
Joe J.
20-11-2003 13:50
Dave Flowerday
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Originally posted by Joe Johnson We have made a small harness that goes from the EDU RC's battery plug to a plug that a standard hobbyist (Remote Control RC) battery can plug into. |
20-11-2003 17:17
Joe Johnson
Link to Tower Hobby Page w/Connectors
I purchased some from TowerHobby.com but I cannot lay my hands on the paperwork just now. I am 95% that it is one the female* from the set I have linked to
But... ...There is that last 5% ;-)
You can also buy the battery, charger and mating connector for the batteries from Tower as well.
Hope this helps.
Joe J.
P.S. Be careful ordering Male and Female connectors from Tower Hobby. They typically refer to the sex of the plastic connector when they refer to male and female. In the auto industry we always refer to the sex of the TERMINAL (which is almost always opposite of the sex of the plastic housing so you can order the wronp part pretty easily -- actually, looking at the picture from the Tower Hobby sight, I THINK the picture has the terminals paired up Male-Male and Female-Female... ...I could make a MA joke here but it is too easy... ;-)
20-11-2003 17:57
Rickertsen2
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Originally posted by Dave Flowerday Where did you obtain the connectors that mate with the power connection on the EDU? We haven't looked very hard yet, but I think we'll want them pretty soon now as we're beginning the process of converting our 2003 robot over to the EDU controller. |
21-11-2003 07:56
Andy Brockway
I am using R/C connectors from Radio Shack. I modiifed the corners to allow entry into the Edu connector.
We powered up our 2003 robot last night and had a splendid display of the need to debug. The shifting switch turned the beacon off and on and the air pump never shut off just for starters. We will be running around after Thanksgiving!
20-01-2004 21:11
mightywombat
Hey.
Thanks alot for this code. We finally decided to put it to good use on a prototype bot. To power the second controller we just used 6 Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable batteries (1.2 volts each * 6 = 7.2 volts), and some alligator clips to connect them to the terminals... Its a little shaky but it works. One thing I would like to add that we overlooked and spent a half an hour diagnosing is that the switch on the 2003 EDURC needs to be switched to "Program." Its very easy to overlook. Otherwise the code and setup works great! Thanks alot Dave!