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2006 prototype drive train
Wt. 68 Lbs.
L 38" W 28"
Speed 6.5 FPS
5.5" Wheels
6 Wheel Drive
1/4" Alum base plate
3/8" Stainless Steel side and front bars
09-04-2005 23:09
sanddragRod,
You don't come around these boards too often but when you do I am certainly impressed with your work. You are becoming a great robot designer. Have any of your designs been built? If so, I'd like to see some pictures.
A few notes:
-It might be better to mount the CIMs by the 10-32 threaded holes in their face rather than claming them on the can.
-Why use a coupling on the CIM shafts rather than just putting a gear?
-The transmission directly drives the wheel, I LOVE IT!
-The transmission has three plates, make sure there are never 3 bearings/bushings on a single shaft.
-For the sprockets, what size are they? I would recommend going the smalles you can (which would be 13T for #25 with 1/2" bore)
-Finally, have you considered a welded box tubing frame, they can come out to be very lightweight.
Last, I would like to offer you a picture of our frame in case you wanted to take any design cues from it. http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/pi...le&picid=10020 The pillow blocks slide for chain tension. Big tubing is 1.5x2 (probably should have used 1x2 and the small tubing is 1x1. All 1.8" wall.
Again, NICE WORK!
09-04-2005 23:16
Arefin Bari
First of all ... very nicely done (inventor).
Few comments.
Very simple design, I like it. Looks like most of your weights are in the back of your chassis, I think you might want to look into that and make sure the chassis has central gravity. I can't really tell if your middle wheel of the chassis is lower than the other two according to this picture. If the middle wheel isnt lowered, you might want to do that for better turning. Did you think about making the chassis go a bit faster? You can always change the ratio (output transmission sprocket and the ones on the wheels). Looking at the top view... it looks like you sprockets are 1:1. What is the ratio of the transmission itself?
:: I heard them AndyMark Transmission is good:: 
09-04-2005 23:36
Eugenia Gabrielov
I really like your design. I'd like to know what you plan to do with it, as mentioned before. The center of balance is towards one end, but it seems that if you put a manipulator closer to the empty end that wouldn't be a problem?
Hopefully all would balance out well. I also noticed it's riding pretty low. Are we anticipating another low necesity game?
And while I'm on it...how would the design, if used, be altered for a water game?
09-04-2005 23:45
JasJ002hey the 6 wheel drive looks awesome but you should put some chain in so that people can tell exactly how it works ar first glance. I like the wheels too and the idea is great.
10-04-2005 00:02
SizzelChest330WOW..Impressive
...I take it there will be slight adjustments if the size limit changes next year...or if they have a "Platformish" thing again
but still...The weight is perfect for a strong base...trasmission is good!...and best of all...THOSE IS SOME TIGHT RIMS..hahah
10-04-2005 00:04
Arefin Bari
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Originally Posted by JasJ002
hey the 6 wheel drive looks awesome but you should put some chain in so that people can tell exactly how it works ar first glance. I like the wheels too and the idea is great.
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10-04-2005 00:31
Tristan LallThat looks interesting....
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Originally Posted by sanddrag
A few notes:
-It might be better to mount the CIMs by the 10-32 threaded holes in their face rather than claming them on the can. -Why use a coupling on the CIM shafts rather than just putting a gear? -The transmission directly drives the wheel, I LOVE IT! -The transmission has three plates, make sure there are never 3 bearings/bushings on a single shaft. -For the sprockets, what size are they? I would recommend going the smalles you can (which would be 13T for #25 with 1/2" bore) -Finally, have you considered a welded box tubing frame, they can come out to be very lightweight. |
; that's even worse than Blizzard 4, in power-to-rating terms--it was an already-horrifying 5.1, even after accounting for its extra power!)
10-04-2005 00:44
sanddragI'm not sure how or why you broke your chains but we ran a 6 motor 2 speed with #25 13T sprockets without a problem. While you are correct in saying you can easily exceed the working load, the breaking point is over 1000lbs. Also, it is not about the force the motors produce, it is about the force the wheels can hold on the floor. But yes, larger is safer.
10-04-2005 01:02
Tristan Lall|
Originally Posted by sanddrag
I'm not sure how or why you broke your chains but we ran a 6 motor 2 speed with #25 13T sprockets without a problem. While you are correct in saying you can easily exceed the working load, the breaking point is over 1000lbs. Also, it is not about the force the motors produce, it is about the force the wheels can hold on the floor. But yes, larger is safer.
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10-04-2005 01:06
Rod|
Originally Posted by sanddrag
Rod,
You don't come around these boards too often but when you do I am certainly impressed with your work. You are becoming a great robot designer. Have any of your designs been built? If so, I'd like to see some pictures. A few notes: -It might be better to mount the CIMs by the 10-32 threaded holes in their face rather than claming them on the can. -Why use a coupling on the CIM shafts rather than just putting a gear? -The transmission directly drives the wheel, I LOVE IT! -The transmission has three plates, make sure there are never 3 bearings/bushings on a single shaft. -For the sprockets, what size are they? I would recommend going the smalles you can (which would be 13T for #25 with 1/2" bore) -Finally, have you considered a welded box tubing frame, they can come out to be very lightweight. Last, I would like to offer you a picture of our frame in case you wanted to take any design cues from it. http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/pi...le&picid=10020 The pillow blocks slide for chain tension. Big tubing is 1.5x2 (probably should have used 1x2 and the small tubing is 1x1. All 1.8" wall. Again, NICE WORK! |
10-04-2005 01:15
sanddragFor 3 bearings on a shaft, it is a geometric overconstraint. Unless you can keep tolerances to under .001, you are losing efficiency.
10-04-2005 01:35
RodWe use plain sleeve flanged bearings. The center bearing is bored out .020" over and is more of a gear spacer than a bearing.
10-04-2005 01:41
sanddragAh, okay. So you really don't have 3 (close fitting) bearings on the shaft. Also, now I can see the need for couplings. Looks very small/compact!
I'm not sure if this would be a good idea but it seems like those couplings are taking up a lot of space in your otherwise compact design. If you got a gear just big enough to bore out and key to fit over the CIM shaft to keep the tooth count small (for 20P I believe this would be a 12T) then you could increase the 55 tooth gear just a little bit (maybe to 60) or maybe even keep it that size for a faster robot then you could move the CIMs in closer and mount them by the face to that first red plate.
10-04-2005 01:47
Rod|
Originally Posted by sanddrag
Ah, okay. So you really don't have 3 (close fitting) bearings on the shaft. Also, now I can see the need for couplings. Looks very small/compact!
I'm not sure if this would be a good idea but it seems like those couplings are taking up a lot of space in your otherwise compact design. If you got a gear just big enough to bore out and key to fit over the CIM shaft to keep the tooth count small (for 20P I believe this would be a 12T) then you could increase the 55 tooth gear just a little bit (maybe to 60) or maybe even keep it that size for a faster robot then you could move the CIMs in closer and mount them by the face to that first red plate. |
10-04-2005 02:02
Kevin Sevcik
How stiff is that chassis, anyways? It definitely looks good, but we tried a bent sheet chassis one year and we definitely had problems with it flexing. and especially with it twisting since it didn't have any stiffness at the corners.
10-04-2005 02:09
Rod|
Originally Posted by Kevin Sevcik
How stiff is that chassis, anyways? It definitely looks good, but we tried a bent sheet chassis one year and we definitely had problems with it flexing. and especially with it twisting since it didn't have any stiffness at the corners.
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10-04-2005 02:27
Tristan Lall|
Originally Posted by Rod
The gears used are a 55 tooth 3/8 face 20 DP for output and a 5 tooth stem pinion on the end of the Cim motor.
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10-04-2005 05:51
Bill GoldLookin' good, Rod.
Why not put the gearboxes on the center wheels and use two output sprockets (one to the front and one to the back)? This will eliminate the possibility of this drivetrain becoming a 4wd (3wd on one side, and 1wd on the other) with the loss of just one chain, or a 2wd with the loss of two.
Sorry if this was brought up earlier in the thread… it’s almost 3am, and I’ve been doing something that a lot of 21+ year olds tend to do 
-Bill
10-04-2005 09:05
Ryan Dognaux
Looks good, similar to the 254 - 60 drive. I was going to mention what Bill just said, it might be better to drive your bot from the center wheels. That way, if you throw a chain, you'll still have at least 4 wheels that are powered by the CIMs. This is how we had our drive set up at first this year, but then decided to switch out our front and back wheels with the AndyMark Omniwheels.
10-04-2005 11:46
Matt Reiland
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Originally Posted by sanddrag
Ah, okay. So you really don't have 3 (close fitting) bearings on the shaft. Also, now I can see the need for couplings. Looks very small/compact!
I'm not sure if this would be a good idea but it seems like those couplings are taking up a lot of space in your otherwise compact design. If you got a gear just big enough to bore out and key to fit over the CIM shaft to keep the tooth count small (for 20P I believe this would be a 12T) then you could increase the 55 tooth gear just a little bit (maybe to 60) or maybe even keep it that size for a faster robot then you could move the CIMs in closer and mount them by the face to that first red plate. |
10-04-2005 12:07
Rod|
Originally Posted by Bill Gold
Lookin' good, Rod.
Why not put the gearboxes on the center wheels and use two output sprockets (one to the front and one to the back)? This will eliminate the possibility of this drivetrain becoming a 4wd (3wd on one side, and 1wd on the other) with the loss of just one chain, or a 2wd with the loss of two. Sorry if this was brought up earlier in the thread… it’s almost 3am, and I’ve been doing something that a lot of 21+ year olds tend to do ![]() -Bill |
10-04-2005 15:56
gburlison|
Originally Posted by Rod
Thanks
A few answers The gears used are a 55 tooth 3/8 face 20 DP for output and a 5 tooth stem pinion on the end of the Cim motor. The stem pinion has a 3/8" Dia. so it can not be mounted on the Cim shaft. That is why the Cims use a coupling and are not face mounted. I have put 3 bearings on a shaft many times and never had a problem. Our robot this year uses the same gearboxes and works perfect. The sprockets are 14 tooth #35 with 5/8" Bore. This year we had to add weight to our robot (17 Lbs.) We have a 55 Lb. drive train this year, that does not count the arm. So next year if we have a 68 Lb. drive train it should be about right. I read these boards every day, just don't post too much. Our designs have been built, they are posted here both the CAD drawings and this year's Robot. CAD drawings are titled Light weight drive train, we built a slightly modified version of it. See Ya |
10-04-2005 20:11
Rod|
Originally Posted by gburlison
Rod,
Did you check the weight of this design in inventor? |
10-04-2005 23:25
mtaman02
Not a bad design, I love it when plans come together early in the 2006 season, many of the issues get resolved fairly early.
Couple of issues though
1) do you have an alternative design to compensate for objects on the field which may include going up or down or over.
2) do you have an idea of how you gonna be able to balance the weight out along the base of the robot since the majority of the weight is from the parts and the parts is mainly in the rear / front of the robot.
10-04-2005 23:53
Rod|
Originally Posted by mtaman02
Not a bad design, I love it when plans come together early in the 2006 season, many of the issues get resolved fairly early.
Couple of issues though 1) do you have an alternative design to compensate for objects on the field which may include going up or down or over. 2) do you have an idea of how you gonna be able to balance the weight out along the base of the robot since the majority of the weight is from the parts and the parts is mainly in the rear / front of the robot. |
11-04-2005 00:46
sanddragHow much does the base pan and all those little bars weigh? While the plate is nice for mounting stuff too, I'm betting you could make a lighter stronger frame with box tubing. (although you did mention that you designed this to be heavy).
11-04-2005 12:13
team222badbrad
I am not sure if this is mentioned in any previous posts, but upon first look I noticed something you may not have thought about in the design of your robot frame.
Those three rods of tubing in the front and back may potentially bend upon impact of other objects causing them to come in contact with the wheels, which could be potentially bad.
Just figured I would let you know!
Nice Inventor work by the way!
11-04-2005 14:48
Rod|
Originally Posted by team222badbrad
I am not sure if this is mentioned in any previous posts, but upon first look I noticed something you may not have thought about in the design of your robot frame.
Those three rods of tubing in the front and back may potentially bend upon impact of other objects causing them to come in contact with the wheels, which could be potentially bad. Just figured I would let you know! Nice Inventor work by the way! |
11-04-2005 15:11
Matt Reiland
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Originally Posted by Rod
The bars are 3/8" solid stainless steel. My thought is that are more likely to spring than to bend.
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11-04-2005 16:18
Rod|
Originally Posted by Matt Reiland
Wow, that is an incredible amount of weight to be putting into the base!! 3 rows of solid steel bar plus what looks to be large blocks of aluminum to hold them? Add in the weight of about 12ft of chain and you should be at about 75 lbs.
Have you considered aluminum tube maybe 1/8" wall 1" dia? All the 1/4" in the base is a little heavy for a first robot, you could build the whole thing out of 80/20 and still be a bunch lighter. Just my 2 cents but I have yet to see a robot that has that much weight to burn unless you plan on having no manipulator.? It does look nice and clean in inventor, great job on that. |
11-04-2005 16:59
Conor Ryan
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Originally Posted by Tristan Lall
That looks interesting....
I mostly concur with sanddrag, except for that sprocket thing. A couple of years ago, in 2003, Woburn used those same little sprockets, and promptly broke something like 13 #25 chains over the course of three events. Since there's no such thing as too much horsepower, the chain simply wasn't up to what we demanded of it. (It undergoes higher stresses as sprocket radius decreases.) .... |
11-04-2005 18:22
sanddrag|
Originally Posted by cdr1122334455
can't this all simply be solved by replacing the chain system with timing belts?
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11-04-2005 21:33
RodThis is our drive train this year, it was designed in preseason and modified for this year's game. And yes we always use #35 chain in our drive trains.