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Ok, basically, I went for compact with this one. It's a two stage gearbox, the second stage is a planetary built in to a custom wheel. The wheel is 10" in diameter, final ratio is 1:19.2. Comments?
23-06-2005 00:59
sanddragCan we get a view without that outermost plate and bearings so we can see the gears inside?
23-06-2005 01:10
Is a 10 inch wheel too big? (I don't know, so I ask), and as big, I mean overly large for the size of a robot that would be made for a FIRST competition....
Also- would it be possible to make this a 2 speed?
23-06-2005 01:30
Matt KrassSanddrag, I'll post an exploded view tomorrow showing the planetary gearset.
Craig, my team has used 10" wheels with much success since the 2002 season. Also, I suppose you could replace the first stage with a shifter but that would defeat the point somewhat, this is meant to be simple and compact.
23-06-2005 03:28
team222badbrad
I have been thinking about an in wheel transmission/gearbox like this, but the thing that worries me most is impacts and side loads.
I suppose if you can find a solution to that it would be great.
Keep the ideas flowing.
23-06-2005 11:51
Andy Brockway
Matt,
Is the ring gear attached to the wheel? If so, what forces the wheel to turn? Most planetaries will allow the moons to spin around the sun when the outer ring is stationary.
I suppose this will be cleared up when you post the exploded view. I believe you want the moons attached to the wheel with the outer ring fixed to the frame.
23-06-2005 13:04
Jeff Waegelin
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Originally Posted by Andy Brockway
Matt,
Is the ring gear attached to the wheel? If so, what forces the wheel to turn? Most planetaries will allow the moons to spin around the sun when the outer ring is stationary. I suppose this will be cleared up when you post the exploded view. I believe you want the moons attached to the wheel with the outer ring fixed to the frame. |
23-06-2005 13:09
Matt Krass|
Originally Posted by Andy Brockway
Matt,
Is the ring gear attached to the wheel? If so, what forces the wheel to turn? Most planetaries will allow the moons to spin around the sun when the outer ring is stationary. I suppose this will be cleared up when you post the exploded view. I believe you want the moons attached to the wheel with the outer ring fixed to the frame. |
.
23-06-2005 15:40
Matt KrassI just posted the exploded views, two are already approved, the other two should be shortly, I hope this clears up any questions.
23-06-2005 16:24
Andy Brockway
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Originally Posted by Jeff Waegelin
As I understand it, having seen the exploded view, the sun gear is on the motor output, the planets are stationary, and the ring gear is locked to the wheel. If I'm not mistaken, this setup will cause the ring gear to spin in the opposite direction as the motor, with a reduction equal to the number of teeth on the ring, divided by the number of teeth on the sun gear. Is this correct?
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23-06-2005 16:48
RogerR
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Originally Posted by Matt Krass
It's not shown in the picture (yet) but six bolts will hold the ring gear to wheel, it's actually 1/8" thick, while the wheel has an 1/8" flange, total wheel thickness 1/4".....
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23-06-2005 17:08
Not2B
Very cool. That could be a very interesting design, not only for drive wheels, but for other devices.
Here's my question - What keeps the ring gear from moving cross-vehicle? I think there are a couple of ways to solve this, but I was wondering what you had in mind.
23-06-2005 18:38
Tytus Gerrish
what's going to support the side load of the wheel? . looks like all the weight of the robot is going to be forced onto the bottom planet gear and In all my experience gears don't like to be smashed together like that at all. , also if that wheel takes any side load it's going to come off. both of those things can be solved with a big bearing. but Where Re you going to get one? those big bearings are hard to find, not to mention expensive. Thats a cool design but if i was planing on making a robot i would use something much simpler and less expensive.
23-06-2005 19:35
Matt KrassThe side load problem is the one next on my list, this is a completely new area for me, so I'm kind of winging it, I have a few ideas to prevent the carrier gear from slipping off, I'm not sure about the downward forces on the planets, I was thinking of rotating them 45 degrees to spread the load across the two bottom gears, this is all brand new territory for me, and as far as I know, FIRST in general, though I could be wrong about that. Does anyone know of any similar designs used in FIRST?
23-06-2005 22:15
Kevin Sevcik
I'm not an expert on gears by any means, but I think just spreading the load across the gears won't help that much. Gears are meant to operated at fixed distances on fixed shafts. 25 pounds of force pushing the gears into each other isn't going to make them happy. Even if you could get it down to 5 pounds, you'd still lose a lot of efficiency. I think your best bet is to figure some way to get a bearing supporting the wheel so you're not using the gears as a bearing sort of surface. This would help with the side loads too.
I'm thinking a big thin section ball bearing that goes around your array of bearings there and slips inside a rim on the wheel. At that diameter a brass bushing might work as well.
24-06-2005 00:57
JizvoniusHey nice design. One way to reduce the range of loading on the gears would be to find a way to support the wheel on it's own bearing. It may have to be a needle roller bearing with a large inner diameter to keep the design compact but it should work out with a bit more structure. That way the wheel loads go to the bearing and the gears don't have large time varying loads that will occur even without impact with the present design.
Also, you can get away with using fewer gears now that the loads don't have to be distributed that much. That should save a little on weight.
24-06-2005 01:02
Matt KrassThanks for all suggestions, I'm taking them all under consideration, now I have a question for all you gearheads out there...
What the heck is a needlepoint bearing? 
I'm learning, one step at a time..
24-06-2005 01:11
RogerR
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Originally Posted by Matt Krass
Thanks for all suggestions, I'm taking them all under consideration, now I have a question for all you gearheads out there...
What the heck is a needlepoint bearing? ![]() I'm learning, one step at a time.. |
24-06-2005 01:27
Jizvonius|
Originally Posted by RogerR
needle bearings use thin cylindrical rollers instead of a balls (in the case of ball bearings).
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25-06-2005 14:03
dlavery
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Originally Posted by Matt Krass
Thanks for all suggestions, I'm taking them all under consideration, now I have a question for all you gearheads out there...
What the heck is a needlepoint bearing? ![]() I'm learning, one step at a time.. |
26-06-2005 13:06
Joe Johnson
What is the purpose of the design?
It is fairly clever but without knowing what you are planning it is hard to be fair.
In generally 3 things worry me.
Others have said it already but imho, you need to get independent bearings on the wheel/sun. Gears are not intended to be bearings. You have little chance of success if you depend on the gears for support.
The thinness of the wheel. I think you will want to consider thickening up the wheel. Wheels take considerable side loads, more than I would expect a 10" dia, 1/4th thick spoke splate to be able to support.
Finally, gear tooth face width. This is 2 problems in one. I think 1/8th thick gears will be hard to keep aligned.
Without actually counting teeth it looks like you've got about a 15:1 overall reduction from the motor to the wheel. But more importantly, 2 Chiaphua motors put out a lot of torque, more than those gears look like they can hold if my gut is right.
Without actually doing the calculations to see if they are going to fail, you can get a feel for things by looking at designs you know work.
Without actually counting teeth it looks like you've got about a 15:1 overall reduction from the motor to the wheel. Thinks about it this way: Look at the face width of the gears inside a planetary gearbox. Take the Dewalt for example. Look at the 2nd stage. See how thick those gears are? Well, your ratio about the same as that second stage BUT BUT BUT... ...2 Chiaphua motors will put out 5-10 times as much torque as a single drill motor. So... you've got many times the torque trying to be supported by gears many times thinner. Something has got to give.
Just some things to think about.
Joe J.
26-06-2005 16:11
Matt Krass|
Originally Posted by Joe Johnson
In generally 3 things worry me.
Others have said it already but imho, you need to get independent bearings on the wheel/sun. Gears are not intended to be bearings. You have little chance of success if you depend on the gears for support. The thinness of the wheel. I think you will want to consider thickening up the wheel. Wheels take considerable side loads, more than I would expect a 10" dia, 1/4th thick spoke splate to be able to support. Finally, gear tooth face width. <snip, sorry its just long...> Just some things to think about. Joe J. |
26-06-2005 21:55
sanddragIf this turns out to be more trouble than it's worth (which I'm not saying it necessarily is) there is always the option of making a traditional fixed ring planetary, and having the output of that be your wheel axle. You'd have to take some precautions so that wheel impact doesn't happen or if it happens that it doesn't affect the gears. It would end up being a little bit long to space out the bearings (probably an inch of spacing between them will do), but you could have the wheel double back over the gearbox sort of like the MER rovers. You could have a deep dish wheel so the gearbox goes inside of it a bit.
I'm even thinking maybe a Chiaphua/Dewalt directly driving a wheel by modifying the output shaft and end of gearbox to give better support for holding a wheel. The only thing is though you wouldn't want to go any larger than about a 5" wheel straight on a Dewalt, but at least I think that is enough to clear it so the gearbox can go inside the wheel a little bit.
The thing with making planetaries is that I haven't been able to find a source of wide face internal gears. The largest I've found is 5/16 and it is brass.
27-06-2005 16:05
JizvoniusI think the internal gear idea can work if the pitch diameter is large enough. Then it wouldnt require nearly as much force on the gear teeth as it would be applied far from the center of rotation. This thread actually made me resurrect an old idea that can possibly make a very compact drive module. The gears(except the internal gear), brackets and shafts are missing from the inventor drawing, but the spacing has been worked out in 2D. The model so far should give you an idea of what I'm working towards though. The gear ratio ends up being about 15:1. The weight looks like it will end up being about 8 lbs and the size is about 8"x6"x6". The design obviously needs more thought, but I figured that I'd put it out there.
I have many variations of this design that move components around for different purposes. This one is to minimize the amount of gearing and space for the motor-gearbox-wheel system.
Jevawn
BTW i did this last night at around 4:30am so any resulting crappyness of the model can be attributed to that.