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Specs: 5 ft/sec and 15 ft/sec
The gear ratio is as follows. 14 tooth gear on the motor geared to a 50 tooth gear.
Then, the two gear ratios to the dog shaft are 25 tooth to a 50 tooth, and a 40 tooth to a 35 tooth gear. The final reduction is a 14 tooth gear and a 50 tooth gear.
I designed the transmission to use the 50 tooth and 14 tooth gears out of the KOP transmission to save money.
I would love to hear any comments about what is most likely to fail, and how to improve it.
27-12-2006 17:04
Nuttyman54
Looks good! You should include some sort of description or explaination though!
27-12-2006 17:50
sanddragI'd try to eliminate the third shaft by going with bigger gears on the second shaft, a bigger gear on the primary reduction (the middle one), and smaller gears on the first shaft. What is your target speed?
27-12-2006 18:10
AustinSchuhI am shooting for 15 ft/sec and 5 ft/sec. I chose 3 stages because I could then use the free 14 tooth and 50 tooth gears from the KOP transmission and machine them how I want.
The gear ratio is as follows. 14 tooth gear on the motor geared to a 50 tooth gear. Then, the two gear ratios to the dog shaft are 25 tooth to a 50 tooth, and a 40 tooth to a 35 tooth gear. The final reduction is a 14 tooth gear and a 50 tooth gear.
As you can see, there are a lot of 14 and 50 tooth gears in the gear ratios that I chose. I only have to buy 25 tooth gears, 40 tooth gears, and 35 tooth gears.
27-12-2006 18:24
Lil' Lavery
15 fps is probably too fast for FIRST purposes. Most teams and drivers agree you lose the ability to easily control your robot after about 11-12 fps. Additionally, you can easily outrun most other teams at around the same speed.
If you wanted to keep the 3:1 ratio, I'd aim 12 fps and 4 fps (with inefficiencies slowing it slightly from those values).
27-12-2006 18:43
Joel J|
15 fps is probably too fast for FIRST purposes. Most teams and drivers agree you lose the ability to easily control your robot after about 11-12 fps. Additionally, you can easily outrun most other teams at around the same speed.
If you wanted to keep the 3:1 ratio, I'd aim 12 fps and 4 fps (with inefficiencies slowing it slightly from those values). |
27-12-2006 18:46
Greg Needel
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15 fps is probably too fast for FIRST purposes. Most teams and drivers agree you lose the ability to easily control your robot after about 11-12 fps. Additionally, you can easily outrun most other teams at around the same speed.
If you wanted to keep the 3:1 ratio, I'd aim 12 fps and 4 fps (with inefficiencies slowing it slightly from those values). |
27-12-2006 19:03
Lil' Lavery
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I agree that most drivers think that 12 fps is a top speed, but in my opinion that top speed in the gearbox is almost irrelevant. As long as you have enough torque to move your robot at that speed, then you can always drive slower. Just because most drivers push the sticks all the way forward when they drive doesn't mean it is required. It is also possible to reduce the speed in software if you really wanted to.
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As for outrunning most other teams...if most teams shoot for 12 fps you won't
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27-12-2006 19:22
AustinSchuhWhat part of the transmission is most likely to break? I am mostly worried that the first time that we get into a pushing match, the transmission will fail.
I am having trouble putting this next sentence in plain english, so bare with me.
When the dog's teeth just leave the face of one of the two gears with holes cut in them to accept the dog's teeth, how much clearance should I have between the dog's other set of teeth and the other gear?
Thanks for all of the feedback so far.
27-12-2006 19:37
Jeremiah H<These are my thoughts, some suggestions from my experience, if some of my hypotheses are no good, please correct me>
If you want to shoot for 15 fps and your team has a good driver, I'd say go for it. Last year, we put our bot up on blocks to find its freewheeling speed, and high gear was around 14 fps. Once we got the bot on the ground, we never actually clocked it very accurately, but our rough figures said that it was running about 12 fps. You may not lose as much speed as we did, depending on the efficiency of your drivetrain and the type of wheels you use. (We ran a six wheel #35 chain drive with 4 go-cart tires and two pneumatic Skyway look-alikes. If you use smaller wheels I wouldn't think your bot would slow down as much as ours did) Ours seemed blistering fast, it was fine for '06 (the field was open and our driver was great), but I wouldn't recommend it for a playing field that has a lot of obstacles like it was in '05.
Also- two things we learned the hard way-
-make certain that the key for your output sproket/pulley is TIGHT. We had problems with shearing, yes shearing, keys off on our output because they were too lose and were getting slammed back and forth a lot due to our defensive strategy (ram, back off, repeat, etc.)
-try not to shift when your motors are under power, it tends to be hard on the dog. when we took our gearboxes apart this summer, the dogs' corners were worn worse than they should've been. Just try to shift only when the motors aren't running at full power, and I think you'll be alright.
As for the clearance, I know exactly what you are talking about, but I can't remember what ours was. I'll check the bot tomorrow and get back to you. I would reckon that 1/8 would be plenty, but I honestly can't remember.
Good luck!
27-12-2006 19:50
Greg Needel
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Yeah, but he could get more torque AND the same speed if he's got it designed to max out at that desired speed instead of reducing the power to get there.
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27-12-2006 20:01
Jeremiah H|
While optimization is important in design, when it comes to your high speed of a FIRST drive train, especially with one that shifts on the fly you have no need for higher torque at your max speed. At that speed any robot running the kit bot drive and upgraded wheels will be able to push you anyway. Since you would never try and push someone at high speed and it is easy enough to change gears if it ever came up. The only purpose of high gear is to move your bot as fast as possible from one place to another, as long as you can move yourself and the game element if relevant, maximum torque at that point isn't required.
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27-12-2006 20:06
Greg Needel
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Originally Posted by AustinSchuh
how much clearance should I have between the dog's other set of teeth and the other gear?
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27-12-2006 20:16
Joel JAcceleration is a factor, as well. I agree with Jeremiah that last year (2006) was a good year to have a "zippy" speed to fly across the field, but in 2005 (and, arguably 2004) a superfast robot could have proven to be a hinderance. In 2004/5, all the stop and go and fine adjustments left the fastest of robots not usually going above 9-10 fps, even though they were capable of more speed.
27-12-2006 22:14
Lil' Lavery
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Acceleration is a factor, as well. I agree with Jeremiah that last year (2006) was a good year to have a "zippy" speed to fly across the field, but in 2005 (and, arguably 2004) a superfast robot could have proven to be a hinderance. In 2004/5, all the stop and go and fine adjustments left the fastest of robots not usually going above 9-10 fps, even though they were capable of more speed.
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Originally Posted by Greg Needel
While optimization is important in design, when it comes to your high speed of a FIRST drive train, especially with one that shifts on the fly you have no need for higher torque at your max speed. At that speed any robot running the kit bot drive and upgraded wheels will be able to push you anyway. Since you would never try and push someone at high speed and it is easy enough to change gears if it ever came up. The only purpose of high gear is to move your bot as fast as possible from one place to another, as long as you can move yourself and the game element if relevant, maximum torque at that point isn't required.
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27-12-2006 22:34
AustinSchuhWhile all of the points you guys bring up are valid, and great things to keep in mind when choosing gear ratios during the season, I just chose those two speeds because those were speeds that I thought might be useful for a game like last year.
When the new season starts, I am going to re-evaluate the gear ratios, and redesign that part of the transmission. I see no point in speculating about the next season and choosing a specific gear ratio before the challenge is released. I just started with 2 gear ratios so that I would have a basic design to build off of and adjust to the challenge when the season starts. Most likely, I will keep the 5 ft/sec, and adjust the top speed to a speed that fits the challenge better.
Thanks for all of the great input on my design.
What dimensions do teams normally use for the size of their dog, and the depth that the teeth of the dog go into the gears? I am currently using 1/2 inch hex, and the dog's teeth are 7/16 of an inch long.
28-12-2006 10:03
Andy Brockway
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..........
What dimensions do teams normally use for the size of their dog, and the depth that the teeth of the dog go into the gears? I am currently using 1/2 inch hex, and the dog's teeth are 7/16 of an inch long. |
28-12-2006 14:26
sanddrag|
I am having trouble putting this next sentence in plain english, so bare with me.
When the dog's teeth just leave the face of one of the two gears with holes cut in them to accept the dog's teeth, how much clearance should I have between the dog's other set of teeth and the other gear? |
28-12-2006 17:04
K.Shaw
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The only thing about building your own is you have to build, and break in, new gearboxes every year.
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29-12-2006 00:52
AustinSchuhIf anyone is interested, here are the Solidworks files for the transmission and drivetrain. If you end up using any part of them durring the season, I would love to know about it. Please let me know if there is a problem with the files, or something doesn't make sense.
http://www.boardsailor.com/austin/CDExport12-28.zip
30-12-2006 16:39
Simon Strauss
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What dimensions do teams normally use for the size of their dog, and the depth that the teeth of the dog go into the gears? I am currently using 1/2 inch hex, and the dog's teeth are 7/16 of an inch long.
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