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Inspired by pic: Simple but Effective Chassis and an idea I played around with towards the end of the '08 build season regarding 357's original mecanum drive train. I still have some dimensions to perfect regarding some of the transmission slots, but I'd like to get this first design out for critique. Oh yea and I'm not mimicing roboticwanderer with the purple -- 1885 is purple too 
-- AM Stackerboxes provide a single stage of reduction, and the sprockets provide the second stage. The final sprockets will be 14-tooth on the stackerbox output and a recommended 38 tooth (or greater) flat AM sprocket on the wheel.
-- As shown, this drive train weighs 26.5 lbs. After welds, chains, and 10% error it will be right at 30lbs.
-- To tension the chains, simply mount the chains and slide the transmissions.
22-06-2008 01:17
s_forbesNice concept, I like it! Strong, simple, and easy to maintain... everything you need in a drivetrain. I especially like the use of stackerboxes as transmissions; using only one gear reduction and only one chain reduction should make it nice and efficient.
I'm not sure about the rectangluar crossmembers though... cutting the holes may be a bit challenging. Have you considered using round tubes at all? May make manufacturing easier.
Great design.
22-06-2008 01:20
MrForbes
or even just a channel across each end, so the frame can flex, since mecanums like "suspension".
I like the idea of using CIMs on stackers, who thought of that? 
22-06-2008 16:22
RupnickMy only input is that if you plan on using the Andy Mark 6" mecanums I would wait until the redesign is available next yea. 1675 had many problems with them this and Andy said that they are redesigning them to hopefully eliminate most of the problems seen this year.
22-06-2008 20:44
Akash Rastogi|
My only input is that if you plan on using the Andy Mark 6" mecanums I would wait until the redesign is available next yea. 1675 had many problems with them this and Andy said that they are redesigning them to hopefully eliminate most of the problems seen this year.
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22-06-2008 20:56
Carlee10This might be a stupid question, but what type of metal is the frame made out of?
22-06-2008 22:09
gblake|
-- To tension the chains, simply mount the chains and slide the transmissions.
[/cdm-description] |
22-06-2008 22:12
MrForbes
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one of those gizmos that has an eye bolt on each end and has an oval you twist to move the bolts closer or farther apart.
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22-06-2008 22:13
EricH
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JK,
Without an active tensioner, my hunch is that the Stackerboxes will inevitably slide in the directions the chain is pulling them. |
22-06-2008 22:41
gblake|
The hardware store guys call them "turnbuckles"
![]() (I know you knew that....) |

22-06-2008 23:01
s_forbes|
Depends on attachment. I've never seen the tensioning method described fail. It's standard Kitbot tranny attachment. Not sure how Stackerboxes attach, but if it's similar, there should be no problem.
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23-06-2008 00:27
EricH
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Key word is depends... Our rookie year we used slots in the frame (for the wheel axle bolts) to act as our tensioners, but they always loosened up after several matches. I know this strategy has worked for other teams before, but there was something funny about that first robot of ours...
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23-06-2008 01:08
JVNI believe Team 20 used Stackerboxes for their Mecanum drive this year. It seemed to work out pretty good for them. I may be mistaken though.
23-06-2008 03:05
s_forbes|
Also, why would anyone use Lexan as the drive frame? (And don't tell me to see the 2007 design book--that team used a metal frame to support their drive.)
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23-06-2008 03:18
AdamHeard
I usually wouldn't use a COTS turnbuckle to tension chain as it just seems big and unweildy..... But, if you got one that is about the length between the inner bolts (to the center of the robot) on one stackerbox and the inner on the other, and the eyelets were about the clearance size for a #10, you could tension both chain runs by pulling the gearboxes towards each other.
EDIT: on second thought, get a turnbuckle with plain threaded ends instead. Make a block with a threaded hole for that end on one face, and a clearance hole for a #10 on the perpendicular face (not vertical). Put that block on one of the inner #10s on each of the stackerboxes, and hook up the turnbuckle to them.
23-06-2008 09:21
JesseK|
Also note that the kit bot has an aluminum bracket bolted to an aluminum frame; lots of frictional force! Lexan may not act the same way and might slip, but I don't know for sure. A turnbuckle may be a very good idea! (or one of those cam shaped tensioners, like on the 968/254/60 drive)
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This might be a stupid question, but what type of metal is the frame made out of?
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Also, to avoid having the chain tension creating a moment that wants to twist the shaft the drive sprocket is on, a bracket that wraps around the sprocket and supports both ends of the shafts could be what is at each end of a tensioning system.
Blake |
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I usually wouldn't use a COTS turnbuckle to tension chain as it just seems big and unweildy..... But, if you got one that is about the length between the inner bolts (to the center of the robot) on one stackerbox and the inner on the other, and the eyelets were about the clearance size for a #10, you could tension both chain runs by pulling the gearboxes towards each other.
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| EDIT: on second thought, get a turnbuckle with plain threaded ends instead. Make a block with a threaded hole for that end on one face, and a clearance hole for a #10 on the perpendicular face (not vertical). Put that block on one of the inner #10s on each of the stackerboxes, and hook up the turnbuckle to them. |
03-11-2008 14:58
colin340
i woul just move the stacker boxs cloeser to the wheel and go with a all gear drive Tran
03-11-2008 20:54
Not2B
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or even just a channel across each end, so the frame can flex, since mecanums like "suspension".
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04-11-2008 00:05
AdamHeard
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i woul just move the stacker boxs cloeser to the wheel and go with a all gear drive Tran
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