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24-07-2008 22:57
Kyle Love
I am guessing by the looks this will be 2WD right?
Also, will your actual frame material be 80/20? This would definitely be a good base to use that with.
How thick plate do you plan to use for the bearing mounts for the front and rear wheels?
24-07-2008 23:03
Dan Petrovic
24-07-2008 23:07
cooker52
Dead Axles? Never heard of that before...
If it is going to be a two wheel drive, may I suggest you use omni wheels on the corner wheels. This will improve your maneuverability greatly and prevent that skip the robot has everytime you turn.
It's looking pretty good. When do you think you will be having more of it done?
24-07-2008 23:10
BrendanBThat's cool DB, i was thinking about what it would be like if we turned the center wheel drive we had upside down. And what center wheels are those, they don't look like what we have?
24-07-2008 23:14
Tapoore
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Dead Axles? Never heard of that before...
If it is going to be a two wheel drive, may I suggest you use omni wheels on the corner wheels. This will improve your maneuverability greatly and prevent that skip the robot has everytime you turn. |
24-07-2008 23:15
Dan Petrovic|
Dead Axles? Never heard of that before...
If it is going to be a two wheel drive, may I suggest you use omni wheels on the corner wheels. This will improve your maneuverability greatly and prevent that skip the robot has everytime you turn. It's looking pretty good. When do you think you will be having more of it done? |
24-07-2008 23:16
BrendanB|
I believe that they are actually "poor man's" omnis (regular KOP wheels covered with pool hose so they can slide sideways easily)... Although I was hoping to get away from using them
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24-07-2008 23:59
phr34kRHi, I was wondering for a 2wd with six wheels can you lower the two centre wheels as you do with six wheel drives and is this anymore effective than omni wheels (or improvised ones).
Tim
25-07-2008 00:14
EricH
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Hi, I was wondering for a 2wd with six wheels can you lower the two centre wheels as you do with six wheel drives and is this anymore effective than omni wheels (or improvised ones).
Tim |
25-07-2008 00:50
RyanNAlthough the normal KOP chassis is setup this way, I would avoid using the current configuration. A corner hit on the chassis can easily warp the frame out of alignment. Adding crossbars (making an X in the middle of the frame) or using round tubing instead of square tubing linking the left and right sides will greatly strengthen your frame. Of course, you will have an upper frame and bumpers to help out, but with a little effort, this could save you a lot of time at competition.
We have been using a square outer rail and middle round tubing for the past 4 years, and we've never had a frame issue. It was well abused at IRI and it only came back home with some small dents.
Round tubing is structurally stronger than squared tubing, and you cannot torque it very much without breaking a weld.
Before everyone says that the KOP frame is very tough, I want to say that this is my personal opinion and I do not want to discourage the use of the KOP frame. I personally like custom frames with round tubing. Auto manufactures use it for a reason, and so do many teams. I would love to hear some input on this as well.
For the wheel setup... If you drop the center wheel about 1/8th of an inch, you shouldn't need omni wheels on the outer corners. We've never had issues turning. Actually this year it turned too much. As for the dead axles... I assume you mean that the axles don't spin, but you have a sprocket bolted to the wheel that spin on the axle. If that is so, we did exactly that this year and didn't have any issues... actually, we have done this for the past 4 years. Our base design has stayed mostly the same with improvements each year. This year we identified a problem with using roll pins, and having them shear, so we're probably going to use larger ones next year or come up with a better way to attach the wheel to the shaft. We're also looking into stronger chain. We were pushing the limits of the #25 chain.
25-07-2008 08:42
Ryan Dognaux
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If it is going to be a two wheel drive, may I suggest you use omni wheels on the corner wheels. This will improve your maneuverability greatly and prevent that skip the robot has everytime you turn.
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25-07-2008 09:09
IKE|
Maybe not on all 4 corners though. Some teams have had problems in the past (us, for example) with controlling our robot by having a six wheel drive with 4 omni's. 2 omni's would probably be ideal, either on the front or in opposite corners. I'd also suggest powering at least the rear part of your drive, throw a sprocket and chain on that bad boy and you'd be good to go.
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25-07-2008 11:12
kramarczyk|
There is a good link to a paper that explains making your robot turn.
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25-07-2008 11:46
dbell
Thanks to everyone for their comments.
Somehow the description didn't get posted when i uploaded the picture. What you see weighs 19 lbs. I haven't decided what gearboxes to use, but i have AM toughboxes or DeWalts in mind. The frame is 1x1x3/16 square tube, and will be welded.
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I am guessing by the looks this will be 2WD right?
Also, will your actual frame material be 80/20? This would definitely be a good base to use that with. How thick plate do you plan to use for the bearing mounts for the front and rear wheels? |
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Originally posted bycooker52Dead Axles? Never heard of that before... If it is going to be a two wheel drive, may I suggest you use omni wheels on the corner wheels. This will improve your maneuverability greatly and prevent that skip the robot has everytime you turn. |
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Originally posted by cooker52 It's looking pretty good. When do you think you will be having more of it done? |

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Originally posted by BrendanB And what center wheels are those, they don't look like what we have? |
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Originally posted by Tapoore I believe that they are actually "poor man's" omnis (regular KOP wheels covered with pool hose so they can slide sideways easily)... Although I was hoping to get away from using them |
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Originally posted by BrendanB But aren't they cheaper and don't they turn easier than omis??? But then again, we can always use something with more quality. |
25-07-2008 13:27
IKE|
Yes, Only the 2 center wheels are powered. To answer the comments about 6wd vs 2wd: This drive base design was meant to be simple and light. Part of meeting this goal meant not powering the corner wheels. For 3 out of the past 4 years, 1519 has used a 2wd drive, powering the center wheels only. We have had good success with this design. The only drawback of this drive system is, like IKE points out, it cant climb ramps. I like 6wd, but this design is meant to be the simple, light, stick-with-what-we-know design. DB |
25-07-2008 14:41
=Martin=Taylor=|
I edited out a lot of your post, but I would like to challenge you that if you are spending the time to do an upfront design, figure out how to power at least 4 of those wheels. There are some extremely simple and cheap ways out there and then you will drive better and be able to climb ramps (or bumps).
We have excluded teams in the past (06, and 07) as picks for having only the center 2 wheels driven from our elimination selection list. If you need some pictures of how to get 2 more to drive, let me know and I will send them your way. |

25-07-2008 14:59
RyanN|
Thanks to everyone for their comments.
Somehow the description didn't get posted when i uploaded the picture. What you see weighs 19 lbs. I haven't decided what gearboxes to use, but i have AM toughboxes or DeWalts in mind. The frame is 1x1x3/16 square tube, and will be welded. Yes, Only the 2 center wheels are powered. I was not planning on using 80-20 because it would make it heavier than i want this design to be. The angle aluminum that supports the axles is 3/16 inch thick. InfernoX14 explained dead axles. Do you mean done in CAD, or built? I will probably continue CAD of this design and similar ones until 2009. I don't know when i'll be 'done'. To answer the comments about 6wd vs 2wd: This drive base design was meant to be simple and light. Part of meeting this goal meant not powering the corner wheels. For 3 out of the past 4 years, 1519 has used a 2wd drive, powering the center wheels only. ![]() We have had good success with this design. The only drawback of this drive system is, like IKE points out, it cant climb ramps. I like 6wd, but this design is meant to be the simple, light, stick-with-what-we-know design. They are custom 6 inch aluminum wheels with roughtop or similar tread material. They are 'poor mans omnis'. I'd like to get away from using them too, as are heavy. Poor mans omnis are a lot cheaper than regular omni wheels, and they slide laterally very well, but not better than omnis. Ryan, thanks for your advice about torquing the frame. Where would you recommend putting the round tube? Comments are welcome DB |
25-07-2008 16:30
dbell
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I edited out a lot of your post, but I would like to challenge you that if you are spending the time to do an upfront design, figure out how to power at least 4 of those wheels. There are some extremely simple and cheap ways out there and then you will drive better and be able to climb ramps (or bumps).
We have excluded teams in the past (06, and 07) as picks for having only the center 2 wheels driven from our elimination selection list. If you need some pictures of how to get 2 more to drive, let me know and I will send them your way. |
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Who says there will be ramps next year.... or bumps... (or dry land for that matter)
![]() On a more serious note... Is that a sprocket or a gear on the center wheel? If you aren't gonna power the outer wheels why not get rid of chains all together and incorporate the wheel directly into the tranny? What trannys are you planning to use anyways? The kit ones perhaps? |
25-07-2008 17:08
AndyB
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Interesting idea... To be honest, i didn't really think about a direct drive that way. Mounting the tranny output shaft to a wheel is easier said than done. Especially on the toughboxes. It would be pretty easy for something like the Banebots p80 long shaft. But because the toughboxes have such a short shaft, you would need an extension. something to think about.
With all the comments from everyone, I think i'll start working on another design... DB |
25-07-2008 19:06
AdamHeard
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AM makes an extended shaft for the supershifter. It actually wouldn't be too complicated at all to modify that shaft for a toughbox. If you want further info, download the cad files of both and look at how similar they are.
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25-07-2008 20:53
Dan Petrovic|
I was not planning on using 80-20 because it would make it heavier than i want this design to be.
They are 'poor mans omnis'. I'd like to get away from using them too, as are heavy. |
25-07-2008 21:43
Greg Needel
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The frame is 1x1x3/16 square tube, and will be welded.
I was not planning on using 80-20 because it would make it heavier than i want this design to be. The angle aluminum that supports the axles is 3/16 inch thick. |
26-07-2008 11:11
dbell
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Just a little lesson here.
1 x1 x 1/8" aluminum tubing weighs 0.5132 lbs per foot 1x1 80/20 weighs .5097lbs per foot so in this case your design weights more than with 80/20 now this doesn't take into account the hardware weight. Also 1x1x 3/16" is not a common size for tubing typically it comes in 1/16 or 1/8" |