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A simple design for a drivetrain. The frame is 1x2 aluminum stock. I'm also thinking of using ifi traction wheels for the center wheels. I've lowered the center wheels 1/16 of an inch, is that a good amount?
Any other comments welcomed and appreciated.
28-09-2008 22:08
Rich Kressly
looks very similar to what 1712 did last year ...
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/29579
1/8" was the center wheel drop we settled on and we were very happy about the performance of our drive train. Some say 1/16" may not be enough drop, but I've never actually seen it to verify.
28-09-2008 22:35
AdamHeard
I'm assuming you mean 1x2 aluminum extrusion. 1/16" or 1/8" wall thickness? Is it all rectangular extrusion, or is some of that C channel (I can't tell from the picture). How is it fastened together?
As for the driveline, what do the chain runs look like, how are they tensioned?
28-09-2008 22:47
wilsonmw04What's your final gear reduction off the tranny?
28-09-2008 22:48
jason701802|
I'm assuming you mean 1x2 aluminum extrusion. 1/16" or 1/8" wall thickness? Is it all rectangular extrusion, or is some of that C channel (I can't tell from the picture). How is it fastened together?
As for the driveline, what do the chain runs look like, how are they tensioned? |
28-09-2008 22:50
kajeevanFor us 1/8in drop has worked very well though 1/16in was never attempted.
Questions: will you be supporting your toughbox further or is that it. second why use such a big sprocket when you can use a much smaller one
28-09-2008 23:11
jason701802|
Questions: will you be supporting your toughbox further or is that it. second why use such a big sprocket when you can use a much smaller one
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28-09-2008 23:50
JOhnch181We used c-channel last year and it was plenty strong. we also only used angle stock on the ends and plywood as a base to provide lateral strength.
We had no problems except a pent angle stock in the front from the collisions but it was no big deal with the plywood behind it.
28-09-2008 23:54
R.C.
If you have the machining capabilities and if you are going to use 1/8 inch tubes, look at loosing weight by drilling holes or pocketing by cncing. Weight matters and the drivetrain looks pretty nice. I'll get back to you on the tensioners, I have some in the making right now.
29-09-2008 00:58
=Martin=Taylor=|
side note: this will only be the second time that we have used wheels (we have used tracks) and are still new to wheels.
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29-09-2008 01:12
R.C.
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What!? No more treads!? Blasphemy!
I'll admit the ol' 753 design didn't seem to help teams 997 or 668 this year, but they've won lots of regionals over the years... As for the drop, I've found that 0" with two omnis works best... But that's just me ![]() |
29-09-2008 10:51
MinerIf you use center traction wheels. Definitly make sure that your outer wheels will slide. Like omni...
29-09-2008 11:10
sdcantrell56As long as your frame is stiff, you will be perfectly fine with 1/8" drop. You can use 6 traction wheels with this and you will be able to turn well and have great pushing power. If you want to use omni wheels then you do not want any drop at all. I am a fan of all traction wheels for more power and so that all of the wheels are the same for replacing them if something goes wrong. Either way you go just remember it is either a drop of the center wheel with all traction wheels or omnis with no drop, never both.
29-09-2008 12:55
Nuttyman54
1/8" is a pretty standard drop, and should drive just fine. I also echo the recommendation to us C channel where you can to save weight. The front and the back rails are especially good candidates for that, and you could also use them on the inner driveline rails if you do it right.
If you have the capability, direct drive to one of the wheel pairs (typically the center pair) is a great option. I don't know if you can do that with the KOP gearboxes, but one less chain means less weight, and also ensures that you can still drive, even if you throw all your chains.
29-09-2008 13:14
Tom LineAre you planning on running the chain between the middle and rear wheel then up and over the tranny? If so, I would be concerned about the chain wrap on the transmission gear and how much tension you'll need to keep it from skipping. That looks like maybe 60 degrees of wrap.
29-09-2008 14:31
sdcantrell56I would also agree that directly driving the center wheel if at all possible is the best solution. As has been said even in some extreme case that you throw every chain, you will still be mobile and able to play the game. Also with this extra safety, you can run#25 chain or even timing belt without worrying that if one breaks you will be immobile. As far as using the kitbox in direct drive it can be as simple as having a new output shaft fabricated and making a hub for the center wheel or you could fab up completely new plates and only retain the gears form the kit transmission. Either way it is relatively easy to do and I would be willing to show you some designs I have done using kit stuff. Also I'm sure you could find a machine shop to fab up a new output shaft to keep cost down.
29-09-2008 14:52
=Martin=Taylor=|
I would also agree that directly driving the center wheel if at all possible is the best solution. As has been said even in some extreme case that you throw every chain, you will still be mobile and able to play the game.
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29-09-2008 15:18
AndyB
I would recommend running your chain like so:
[] = wheel s = sprocket c = chain []s c ss (GEARBOX HERE) c []ss c c c []s
29-09-2008 17:08
sdcantrell56I never expect to break a #25 chain in the drivetrain and in fact we ran the entire season without ever having to replace the drive chains. However, for some people who seem to still be shy about using #25 chain and reaping the great weight savings, using it in a drivetrain where the center wheels are directly driven gives an even greater incentive to use the lighter chain.
29-09-2008 18:26
DonRotolo
#25 chain is more sensitive to proper tensioning. #35 allows teams to be really sloppy and still quite effective.
As to the original question: I like the idea, very similar to our 2007 robot. We used a kitbot frame with a second level of frame at the height of the top of the wheels, primarily to get a flat platform.
Your implementation seems somewhat heavier than necessary. The inner rail doesn't add much strength, it can be 1/16" wall, while the outer rail will take a beating, count on bumpers to stiffen it and lend impact resistance.
You also need to consider cross-rails from outer to inner rail, and again from one inner rail to the other - that way, an impact's force is transmitted to all four elements, not just the one impacted.
If you can mount the gearboxes lower - gotta think about the sprocket wrap - you can end up with a flat (or nearly so) platform over which your manipulator can be built.
Don
29-09-2008 21:31
bmarickwhy did you put the gear box in between the back set of wheels?
Our team did a direct drive of the center wheel and then chain drive to connect the two outside wheels for power this worked great and we did not have to drop the center wheel.
29-09-2008 23:22
R.C.
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why did you put the gear box in between the back set of wheels?
Our team did a direct drive of the center wheel and then chain drive to connect the two outside wheels for power this worked great and we did not have to drop the center wheel. ![]() |
30-09-2008 10:14
M. MellottI would add a cross-brace (1x1 square tubing, 1/16" wall) to keep the frame strong and square...maybe two. They would also serve as additional mounting points for electronic boards and other devices.
As already suggested, using 1/16" wall tubing for the inner frame members is a good idea, but it may not be readily available in the 1x2 size you've chosen (not saying that it's not out there). In the case where you cannot find the 1/16" wall stuff, 1/8" wall U-channel would be a good option to save weight.
30-09-2008 19:14
JOhnch181for cross bracing are team used a heet of 1/2" plywood to create reidgity from side to side. It has the second benefit of giving you a flat surface.
30-09-2008 19:15
AdamHeard
You'll really want to attach the frame members at more than just the ends. I would attach the two outer rails to each other between each wheel at a minimum, and since you're welding, it'll be real simple to do.
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for cross bracing are team used a heet of 1/2" plywood to create reidgity from side to side. It has the second benefit of giving you a flat surface.
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I would add a cross-brace (1x1 square tubing, 1/16" wall) to keep the frame strong and square...maybe two. They would also serve as additional mounting points for electronic boards and other devices.
As already suggested, using 1/16" wall tubing for the inner frame members is a good idea, but it may not be readily available in the 1x2 size you've chosen (not saying that it's not out there). In the case where you cannot find the 1/16" wall stuff, 1/8" wall U-channel would be a good option to save weight. |
30-09-2008 20:34
bmarickdefinitly the cross brace or extra bracing is going to be needed. Otherwise it will bow over time. Can some one explain the degrees of rap to me. I'm still a little new to the drive train systems.
30-09-2008 21:09
AndyB
You want 120 degrees MINIMUM of chain wrap on each driven/driving sprocket.
01-10-2008 00:22
jason701802there will be other braces going across but their placement will depend on our design for other stuff. the reason i put gearboxes on top of the frame member is because is easier then direct drive
01-10-2008 00:39
sdcantrell56why not do direct drive with the super shifter? That is set up out of the box for that and gives you 2 speeds. If you wanted to you could also machine symmetrical plates for the super shifters so that each side of your frame could be identical.
01-10-2008 02:27
bmarick|
there will be other braces going across but their placement will depend on our design for other stuff. the reason i put gearboxes on top of the frame member is because is easier then direct drive
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01-10-2008 02:39
R.C.
If you use 2x1 and at a 1/16" for the frame, make sure if the shaft is live put bearings in the frame. But if the wheel rotates on the shaft, put bushings in those spots where the shaft rests. If you leave the shaft by itself in the frame, over time it will eat away at the frame. I prefer to stay away from direct drive because you either have to hex or key your wheels.
01-10-2008 10:51
sdcantrell56I feel like broaching your wheels and sprockets for hex shaft and using live axles is actually potentially more reliable. At least you dont have to worry about the bolts holding the sprockets to the wheels from loosening. Another thing they could do is have simple bearing blocks machined out of 1/4" thick aluminum to give something a bit more substantial for the bearings to sit in. Although I would agree that if they are using the kit wheels it makes more since to go with dead axle since you would then have to use a keyed hub of some sort.
01-10-2008 12:08
R.C.
Direct Drive is awesome, but a the drive he has set up will be fine and will work just as good. As long has he has aligned the sprockets up and the chain, he will be fine. Nice drivetrain and keep cadding.
02-10-2008 18:46
pakratt1991I saw someone mention tracks in this thread a ways back, and they didn't provide much of a competitive advantage in this years game as it has in some, although were fine tuning and improving upon what we had.
03-10-2008 02:34
bmarickthe one advantage to this idea i can see and have found out from discussing this with other is that you can add a second gear ratio to the spin. But i see no problem in your design other then i would think about not dropping the center wheel at all. keep up these ideas because they cause great discussions. I know I learned alot.
03-10-2008 09:45
sdcantrell56|
But i see no problem in your design other then i would think about not dropping the center wheel at all.
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03-10-2008 12:04
EricH
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Unless you want to not be able to turn well at all and potentially trip the breakers whenever you attempt to turn you have to lower the center wheel. [...] The only way to not lower the center wheel is to use omni wheels in the corner to allow slip while turning.
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03-10-2008 14:12
bmarickoursystem did not need a drop but we used omni for comp. as long as you reverse the direction of one side to turn you should be fine. only you gent more friction thus lower speeds
03-10-2008 14:31
Cory
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Careful about blanket statements like that. Team 25 doesn't exactly drop their wheels (to my knowledge) and they still turn easily. I'm not sure exactly how they do it. It sure doesn't affect the rest of the robot, though. There may be one or two teams who use similar setups.
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03-10-2008 14:55
EricH
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I don't know of teams not named 25 who have been able to skid steer with a 6wd with no dropped center and no omnis. I'd say it's a pretty safe blanket statement.
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04-10-2008 16:05
sdcantrell56I would say it is a very safe blanket statement. I was waiting for someone to chime in with team 25 as an example. Yes they do not drop the center wheel and they do have 6 traction wheels but as far as I know, they and maybe 103 who share a similar drivetrain are the only teams that don't drop the center wheel and have had success. I would say unless you are team 25, which no one is and very few are at there level, then I would recommend dropping the center wheel. You are not sacrificing any performance and in fact are improving your ability to turn and not trip the breakers.
04-10-2008 21:21
=Martin=Taylor=|
I would say it is a very safe blanket statement. I was waiting for someone to chime in with team 25 as an example. Yes they do not drop the center wheel and they do have 6 traction wheels but as far as I know, they and maybe 103 who share a similar drivetrain are the only teams that don't drop the center wheel and have had success. I would say unless you are team 25, which no one is and very few are at there level, then I would recommend dropping the center wheel. You are not sacrificing any performance and in fact are improving your ability to turn and not trip the breakers.
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05-10-2008 01:00
R.C.
I was just watching a video of Team 25's match on the blue alliance and man they are spectacular.
05-10-2008 01:21
s_forbesAs the conversation has drifted more towards true skid-steering drivetrains, I thought I'd point out my favorite: 1662 in 2006. Their drivetrain was very similar to the one posted at the beginning of this thread, but instead of six kit wheels, they had a four-wheeled drivetrain with 2"x8" IFI wheels. Talk about a robot that's hard to turn!
For those of us that aren't able to pull of such feats, six wheel drive with a dropped center works great. I would just recomend (as several others already have) that you add some bracing between the side rails of the chassis. I would prefer stickier wheels, too, but as it sits it looks like a solid base for your bot.
05-10-2008 13:23
Daniel_LaFleur|
definitly the cross brace or extra bracing is going to be needed. Otherwise it will bow over time. Can some one explain the degrees of rap to me. I'm still a little new to the drive train systems.
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05-10-2008 13:37
Daniel_LaFleur|
I would say it is a very safe blanket statement. I was waiting for someone to chime in with team 25 as an example. Yes they do not drop the center wheel and they do have 6 traction wheels but as far as I know, they and maybe 103 who share a similar drivetrain are the only teams that don't drop the center wheel and have had success. I would say unless you are team 25, which no one is and very few are at there level, then I would recommend dropping the center wheel. You are not sacrificing any performance and in fact are improving your ability to turn and not trip the breakers.
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06-10-2008 13:48
sdcantrell56Another thing about 25 is that there wheels have a much lower Cof than wheels treaded with conveyor belting and they have custom patterns cut into them which most likely aids in the turning. I would say it is a safe bet to lower the center wheel unless you have a backup plan for when your robot doesn't turn. Additionally even if it does manage to turn the bucking mentioned is enough of a deterent to want to drop the center wheel. Imagine precisely aiming while the robot is bucking...not something I would want to deal with.
And as for the being easily spun with a lowered center wheel, as long as the drop is not substantial, you will not be easily turned by another robot and you will still be able to turn when you want to and push other robots.
06-10-2008 19:29
bmarickwith our teams direct drive we simply did not need to drop the wheel down. but if you do drop it, i feel, that it allows for the rocking motion of your robot to be a deteriater of how well your robot will trurn when you need it. Also with a droped wheel you must make sure your whieght is truly centered or you completly loose advatage of that extra two wheels up front.
06-10-2008 19:57
EricH
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but if you do drop it, i feel, that it allows for the rocking motion of your robot to be a deteriater of how well your robot will trurn when you need it. Also with a droped wheel you must make sure your whieght is truly centered or you completly loose advatage of that extra two wheels up front.
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07-10-2008 08:55
Daniel_LaFleur|
And as for the being easily spun with a lowered center wheel, as long as the drop is not substantial, you will not be easily turned by another robot and you will still be able to turn when you want to and push other robots.
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07-10-2008 14:23
bmaricki meant that you have to make sure the wieght is balance because otherwise you could end up only have the four wheels touching the ground. i gess but that just makes the robot seem jerky to me because the front wheel will loose and gain tration on weather you have the robot acelerating or deacelrating.
07-10-2008 15:20
EricH
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i meant that you have to make sure the wieght is balance because otherwise you could end up only have the four wheels touching the ground. i gess but that just makes the robot seem jerky to me because the front wheel will loose and gain tration on weather you have the robot acelerating or deacelrating.
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07-10-2008 17:04
Cory
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i meant that you have to make sure the wieght is balance because otherwise you could end up only have the four wheels touching the ground. i gess but that just makes the robot seem jerky to me because the front wheel will loose and gain tration on weather you have the robot acelerating or deacelrating.
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07-10-2008 21:59
DonRotolo
07-10-2008 22:05
R.C.
Use blue nitrile tread from mcmaster, it doesn't rock as much and lasts about 2 full seasons.
07-10-2008 22:15
EricH
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While several teams (25 and 103 are local examples) have excellent drivetrains with no drop, any team contemplating a six-wheel drivetrain had either better be prepared for a lot of hard development work OR have 1/8" or so of center wheel drop. Failure to do either may result in a robot that does not turn well.
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