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A quick inventor assembly of one of the multiple chassis we'll be testing this offseason. The assembly is missing the sprockets and axle spacers but that is just do to time and lazyness. Took a team member and I about 3.5 hours to create this, and we hope to have it jetted out this sunday. The old electronics are slapped on since we do plan on testing this very soon. Spacer dowels are delrin, sideplates aluminum (wood for the prototype) and it has 2 1.5in 8020 bars holding the sideplates to each other. The transmissions are just AM Toughboxes with the extended shaft (increases output shaft by 3.5").
Also the view looks kind of "different" because i'm using the "true 3d" view mode in inventor, I feel it gives it a better look for screenshots (but is a total pain to work in, i'd reccommend against using it for any work hehe)
29-10-2008 01:20
R.C.
Nice cad job, are you guys going with kop wheels??? It is just me or is the battery supported by air? What are the real sideplates made out of (aluminum grade)? Too many questions, so little time. That is a pretty nice drawing taking into account time spent on it.
29-10-2008 01:23
Thermal|
Nice cad job, are you guys going with kop wheels??? It is just me or is the battery supported by air? What are the real sideplates made out of (aluminum grade)? Too many questions, so little time. That is a pretty nice drawing taking into account time spent on it.
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29-10-2008 02:09
AustinSchuhIf you guys have the tools to do it, I would recommend that you fold the top of the side plate over to make it a lot stiffer and stronger.
We made a drive train last year that was 2 plates of 1/8" aluminum side plates on either side of our wheels with spacers to hold the plates together. We folded the top and bottom of each plate over to make a 1/2 inch or so tab. It held up very well.
29-10-2008 10:34
Dan Richardson
First off, I'd like to say this looks like a great design, very weight friendly.
1902 has done it two different ways the last two years. In 07 it was flat 1/8" plate with a ton of rivets and spacers.
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/26796
Last year it was lots of rivets, spacers, and we flanged the top and bottom of the plates. We did this because in 07 the frame seemed to warp a bit with impacts and what not. It never was a problem because the bumpers are strong enough to support quite an impact, so the bumpers ended up keeping the drive plates relatively sturdy.
http://picasaweb.google.com/DanRRich...00838081699890
However bending the plates, when femed showed an individual panel was much stronger. ( If I remember correctly it was "14x" stronger but the flat plate failed under the loading so take that for what you will. ) For 1902 the verdict was, 1/8" is ok.., but 1/8" with 2 .5" bends are SOO much better. Its not too hard to find a sheet metal break, or a metal fab shop to do this for you, for free, or really cheap. I suggest if your going with 1/8", trying to throw some bends on that bot.
29-10-2008 12:31
ZflashAll parts of a ROBOT between 0 and i belive it was 8.5 inches from the
ground that are used to push against or interact with an
opposing ROBOT must be within 10 degrees of vertical.
This was the rule in previous years it may change. This is just a friendly warning so that you do not have to change anything at an event. The design looks clean and open for easy access to the various systems. Do you have any wieght values yet?
29-10-2008 13:21
Cory
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All parts of a ROBOT between 0 and i belive it was 8.5 inches from the
ground that are used to push against or interact with an opposing ROBOT must be within 10 degrees of vertical. This was the rule in previous years it may change. This is just a friendly warning so that you do not have to change anything at an event. The design looks clean and open for easy access to the various systems. Do you have any wieght values yet? |
29-10-2008 13:30
TaylorDon't forget a way to attach bumpers (assuming they'll be mandatory in '09)
29-10-2008 13:31
sdcantrell56However, all of the angled bits hanging down past the bottom flat part are unnecessary material. It is not gaining the design any strength and the extra weight could be avoided by eliminating it all together. Possibly make the entire bottom of the frame flat with a 1/2" flange for extra strength.
29-10-2008 13:32
Thermal|
I don't think those chamfered parts would ever interact with another robot, and by my entirely unofficial interpretation of a previous year's rule, would be ok.
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29-10-2008 13:45
Zflash|
I don't think those chamfered parts would ever interact with another robot, and by my entirely unofficial interpretation of a previous year's rule, would be ok.
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29-10-2008 13:46
sdcantrell56Thats true but imo the added weight is not worth the small small chance that something gets in the spokes and kills the wheel. If something were to happen, it would be a quick swap anyways.
30-10-2008 01:01
Thermalwith the way the toughboxes are mounted, I cannot make the center part of the chassis smaller than 5" tall, so I'm going to keep the inside chamfers.
However I'll think about flattening the front and rear and cutting some material off.
Thanks again for the tips.
30-10-2008 01:25
AdamHeard
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with the way the toughboxes are mounted, I cannot make the center part of the chassis smaller than 5" tall, so I'm going to keep the inside chamfers.
However I'll think about flattening the front and rear and cutting some material off. Thanks again for the tips. |
30-10-2008 19:59
D_PriceI like the cad drawing. Lol where is the wiring. Just joking. I like the prototype though.
31-10-2008 16:41
M. Mellott|
Real sideplates will probably be 1/8" 6061 alu backed with 3/8" UHMW, the prototype will just be 1/2" plywood.
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06-01-2009 23:12
ThermalYes, the sideplates are universal, the assemblies are just mirrored from each other.
As an update we changed the look but it is still the same basic design. We are now using 1/8" thick 6061 alu sheet with flanges on the top and bottom of the sideplate to prevent warping. 4" long, 5/8" diameter UHMW dowels for the spacers with 4 1/2" long 1/4"-20 bolts to go through the dowels and hold the sideplates together. We made some changes to the 8020 and repositioned them pretty drastically for more room for the manipulator, and we have also changed our wheel locations slightly to allow easier turning for this year.