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6wd prototype chassis

Collin Buchan

By: Collin Buchan
New: 02-01-2009 00:30
Updated: 02-01-2009 00:30
Views: 2656 times


6wd prototype chassis

This is the latest version of a 6wd prototype chassis I've been working on in CAD that's based on 6wd designs I've seen on CD. This is Team #2583's second year to compete in FRC and my first time designing a custom chassis so any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

The four side plates are 1/4" aluminum, center wheel direct drive, the other four are dead axles (5/8"), 25p chain, AM SuperShifters, AM sprockets, AM wheels and AM floating chain tensioners (four total), and the aluminum spacers are 1/2" diameter.

Thanks

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02-01-2009 12:05

chris31


Unread Re: pic: 6wd prototype chassis

What is the total weight on that?
I think 1/4in plate is overkill, but I will let others who have more experience comment on your design.



02-01-2009 12:12

Akash Rastogi


Unread Re: pic: 6wd prototype chassis

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris31 View Post
What is the total weight on that?
I think 1/4in plate is overkill, but I will let others who have more experience comment on your design.
It is.

I would have to add in that it seems that you have enough capabilities to machine out your own 2spd gearbox if you wanted to. They would end up being a lot lighter than the SS. Idk how the lightening pattern would hold up but how about 1/8" side plates? You'd still be adding bumpers (if that rule still applies for 09). Try to spread the battery and compressor weight in the back more unless the game calls for lumping their weight together in one corner like Overdrive did for many teams.



02-01-2009 12:24

NickE


Unread Re: pic: 6wd prototype chassis

5/8" sounds like overkill for me for dead axles. I would probably recommend 3/8" for that situation.

Just looking at that design, 7 sprockets per side of the drivetrain, with one direct driven wheel, looks way overkill. I'm not quite sure on the function of the extra four, but it appears to be some sort of elaborate chain run in order to use one chain per side. I would recommend using two chains per side with a double sprocket in the middle; one chain run from the front wheel to the center wheel, another from the center wheel to the rear wheel. This makes the chain runs nice and simple, as seen here.

1/4" plate sounds like overkill, but in this situation, it could be necessary to use [relatively] thick sheet metal to maintain rigidity in the chassis. If you have the capability, you might consider adding flanges, as seen in these photos. This would certainly make your chassis rigid enough to use thinner plate.



02-01-2009 16:16

Peter Matteson


Unread Re: pic: 6wd prototype chassis

Looks pretty nice the one thing I can tell you is that 3/16" is adequete for the side plates. That's what we've done for a few years.

The only thing I'm missing is how will adjust chain tension with this design?



03-01-2009 01:44

Collin Buchan


Unread Re: pic: 6wd prototype chassis

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickE View Post
5/8" sounds like overkill for me for dead axles. I would probably recommend 3/8" for that situation.
This is probably true. The ID of the bearings on the AM wheels are 5/8", so if we wanted to make it smaller we'd have to use a hub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickE View Post
Just looking at that design, 7 sprockets per side of the drivetrain, with one direct driven wheel, looks way overkill. I'm not quite sure on the function of the extra four, but it appears to be some sort of elaborate chain run in order to use one chain per side.
As it is, on the center wheel assembly there's a copper bushing (to decrease the 5/8" ID to 1/2"), the wheel, the sprocket, and a keyed hub to drive the whole thing. With this current design, I wasn't able to fit in two sprockets on the wheel assembly and have it all still fit on the extended output shaft of the gearbox. I suppose I could look around for other wheels that aren't as wide and it might kill two birds with one stone - the IFI ones might do the trick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickE View Post
1/4" plate sounds like overkill, but in this situation, it could be necessary to use [relatively] thick sheet metal to maintain rigidity in the chassis. If you have the capability, you might consider adding flanges
I'm not familiar with adding flanges, and I don't know if we have the capability of machining it. If we used 1/8" or 3/16" aluminum, would it be necessary to add flanges to ensure rigidity in the frame? If so, what size would they need to be?



03-01-2009 02:20

Vikesrock


Unread Re: pic: 6wd prototype chassis

Quote:
Originally Posted by Collin Buchan View Post
This is probably true. The ID of the bearings on the AM wheels are 5/8", so if we wanted to make it smaller we'd have to use a hub.
Which AM wheel is this? The Traction wheels have 3/4" ID bearings and are pretty wide.

The Performance wheels or Plaction wheels are both narrower and have a 1.125 diameter bearing bore (bearing bore Performance wheel is a separate option from hex bore). You can use 1/2" or 3/8"ID bearings in these holes (The performance wheel is provided with 1/2" ID bearings).



03-01-2009 10:00

sbrumund


Unread Re: pic: 6wd prototype chassis

Is there some reason you are set on a 6 wheel drive?

The simplest drive to build and maintain and program is a two wheel drive like the zero radius turn lawn mowers.

You simply drive the two rear wheels and put pivoting casters on for front wheels.

We do not know what this years competition is but if you have to go up a ramp or hill at an angle the two wheel drive allows for a suspension which is difficult to achieve with the 6 wheel tank drive.

Just my thoughts

Good luck



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