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This is the final drive assembly of one of the sides, it went through semi-intensive testing today. Amazingly enough, the chain held up very well, and never "popped" off in the hour of testing. If anyone has questions feel free to ask.
17-01-2009 20:10
Kyle Love
Obviously the electronics are not totally ready to be put in quite yet, but this is the basic design of the drive.
17-01-2009 20:20
colin340
wow that's crazy any chain slip ???
17-01-2009 20:26
Vikesrock
How rough were you guys on the chain when you were testing? We have a very similar setup and were just contemplating moving our Toughboxes further back yesterday to get more chain wrap on the drive sprocket. We wanted to avoid doing so because that would involve replacing the angled braces with another method of holding up the transmissions due to wheel interference.
17-01-2009 20:47
TaylorWould you consider using a floating tensioner on that long front loop?
I wonder what that open front is for....
Be careful with that, you don't want your frame to twist inward there at the front. That will give you horrendous chain trouble.
17-01-2009 21:01
BooksySorry to say but your end cap is 5 inches long. It needs to be 6 for a bumper. I hope you have some c channel left over.
17-01-2009 21:23
Vikesrock
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Sorry to say but your end cap is 5 inches long. It needs to be 6 for a bumper. I hope you have some c channel left over.
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17-01-2009 22:03
Kyle Love
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Sorry to say but your end cap is 5 inches long. It needs to be 6 for a bumper. I hope you have some c channel left over.
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17-01-2009 23:17
blhenzeHow will you be able to tighten the chain?
We set up our prototype this way to give our drivers a feel for tank drive. The chain will stretch with usage, so you will need some way to re-tention or you'll be throwing the chain.
The team has decided on 4WD/4 motors with gear boxes and tention the chain with the mounting angle (Gearbox Bracket - PN: am-0204) that have the long holes to allow the adjustment.
17-01-2009 23:25
waialua359He could probably use the new AndyMark Chain tensioner. Simple and inexpensive.
17-01-2009 23:25
MrForbes
One way to tighten the chain is to shim the transmission and bracket up, by putting washers between the frame channel and the brackets.
17-01-2009 23:54
Kyle Love
It shouldn't need tension for a good long while, we will more then likely replace the entire chain with new chain when it eventually fails, it is extremely tight and does not require and sort of tensioning device.
18-01-2009 00:10
JVNDid you test at full weight?
120 lbs + Battery + Bumpers = ~150 lbs
18-01-2009 00:29
RiznerAlso, did you test stopping quickly (like what will happen when two robots collide)?
18-01-2009 02:47
Justin Stiltner
If weight wont be a problem (at least a big one) I like 2 chains for redundancy. Maybe the chain doesn't fail, but say your wheel sprocket mounting does, etc etc.
18-01-2009 14:50
Booksy|
Nope, it's still really tight, after an hour or so of driving.
It's been measured, there will be a 6 in bumper segment on the front of the sides, it will be entirely legal. Our testing used forward/backward quickly, long stretches of driving, and vigorous motions to try to throw the chains. So far, this chain set up has really impressed me, previously I have been told you need 120 degrees of wrap around a sprocket for it to stay on, but this has proven that wrong, so far. Chain tensioners will not be necessary due to the extremely tight chains that are on it currently. The frame is very sturdy, although it appears weak due to the hole in the front, that is conveniently about 24 inches wide, I don't know why it would be that wide? hmm... ![]() |
18-01-2009 17:16
rsegrestI am the coach of a 2nd year team so please take what I am saying as such. This is identical to the setup we used last year and we had HORRENDOUS problems with chain skipping etc. and did not realize the FULL extent of if until we drove on various surfaces. We seemed to have no problems until we had done almost 40 hours of test driving. By then the chain had stretched to the point that we could not move hardly any distance at all without skipping teeth on the sprocket. Once we switched over to the carpet the problem was compounded by the higher traction vs. a tile floor. I know that this year we are running on a "slick" surface however you will still deal with the chain stretching esp if you have it as tight as you say you do. I would strongly encourage you to rethink you're position on the tensioners. At least have them available in case you wind up needing them quickly between matches in case you don't have time to do a full chain swap. Also, another thing to consider is the amount of chain wrapped around the sprocket. Check the recommendations and compare to what you have, we are using a new design (for us anyway)that gives us a 180 degree wrap around EACH sprocket and in combination with the floating tensioner assembly from Andy Mark (6.00 each) we expect MUCH fewer problems with the chain skipping this year!
18-01-2009 19:04
Travis Hoffman
Can those wheels be cleaned up any?
I'd eventually like to know if this is a good example of what a "non-stock", no-go wheel surface would be for inspection. Have you attempted to clean the wheels and restore the tread surface?
Wonder how FIRST will advise inspectors to handle things (sample pics/wheels for reference?) when teams show up with "dirty" scuffed up wheels? Have them fork over $20 per for replacements? 
18-01-2009 19:11
Kyle Love
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Can those wheels be cleaned up any?
I'd eventually like to know if this is a good example of what a "non-stock", no-go wheel surface would be for inspection. Have you attempted to clean the wheels and restore the tread surface? Wonder how FIRST will advise inspectors to handle things (sample pics/wheels for reference?) when teams show up with "dirty" scuffed up wheels? Have them fork over $20 per for replacements? ![]() |