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 I can't wait until IFI starts their FRC sized competition and quickly overtakes FRC. - AdamHeard [more] |
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By: 548swimmer
New: 09-05-2010 15:19
Updated: 09-05-2010 18:47
Views: 1572 times
This is the solution to driving the suspension. The nylon round stock can be adjusted via the slits in the suspension carriage. This not only allows each chain run to be tensioned to the proper tension, but also allows the suspension to pivot while keeping the system under tension because the tensioners pivot along the same center of rotation as the carriage.
Discussion
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09-05-2010 23:18
548swimmer
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
Any comments?
Should the bushings be brass or nylon?
10-05-2010 00:59
548swimmer
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
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Originally Posted by CraigHickman
This drive design does not need suspension.
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10-05-2010 04:33
Greg Needel
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
I am not sure if this is what you are trying to convey in your above image so if not consider this. Using your pivot shaft as a jack shaft will enable the chains to freely rotate and stay tensioned throughout the range of suspension. You can determine the center distances for chain runs with an even number of links and then do not require external tensioners. Here is even an calculator to do it for you. http://www.botlanta.org/converters/d.../sprocket.html
As for if this drive needs a suspension or not totally depends on your team and it's engineering decisions regarding the application for this drive. Keep thinking outside of the box it will serve you well in the future.
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Originally Posted by CraigHickman
This drive design does not need suspension.
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10-05-2010 05:20
Hawiian Cadder
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
last year we did the same type of thing with our prototype, we had a delrin tube tensioned with a zip tie, the tubes 1/4 inch thick wall was completely destroyed by the chain in about 15 min, if you do that, you are going to need some large diameter nylon.
10-05-2010 09:17
JamesCH95
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
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Originally Posted by 548swimmer
Any comments?
Should the bushings be brass or nylon? |
10-05-2010 10:59
548swimmer
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
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Originally Posted by Greg Needel
I am not sure if this is what you are trying to convey in your above image so if not consider this. Using your pivot shaft as a jack shaft will enable the chains to freely rotate and stay tensioned throughout the range of suspension. You can determine the center distances for chain runs with an even number of links and then do not require external tensioners. Here is even an calculator to do it for you. http://www.botlanta.org/converters/d.../sprocket.html
As for if this drive needs a suspension or not totally depends on your team and it's engineering decisions regarding the application for this drive. Keep thinking outside of the box it will serve you well in the future. There are no absolutes in engineering decisions. People and organizations value different things and out of context it would be wrong to make assumptions on the necessity of a feature. |
The goal was to show how I intend to keep the chain under tension while it is pivoting. The nylon spacers are adjustable so that they can act as chain tensioners. When the carriage moves up and down, the tensioners will as well, theoretically keeping the chain under tension. If any one knows whether or not this will work, please let me know.
The bushing question was in reference to the bushings on the carriage that are currently brass. I guess a better way to phrase it would be to ask whether brass or nylon has a lower coefficient of friction with aluminum.
10-05-2010 13:06
JamesCH95
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
The solid/plain surface bearings (which are different from bushings) that the suspension pivots on could be made from brass, with a ground steel shoulder bolt being used as a shaft, which would be very strong and durable. Better yet they could both be purchased parts. If the shaft is aluminum I would use a nylon or delrin bearing so that the bearing wears faster than the shaft.
10-05-2010 15:03
548swimmer
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
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Originally Posted by JamesCH95
The solid/plain surface bearings (which are different from bushings) that the suspension pivots on could be made from brass, with a ground steel shoulder bolt being used as a shaft, which would be very strong and durable. Better yet they could both be purchased parts. If the shaft is aluminum I would use a nylon or delrin bearing so that the bearing wears faster than the shaft.
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10-05-2010 17:10
JamesCH95
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
Good deal. Look at 7075 or 2024 for the axle, with a good lathe you'll be able to get an excellent surface finish and great strength. I don't know if you have one, but a HSS reamer to do the inside of any polymer bearing is much much much easier/faster/idiot proof than boring it out.
10-05-2010 17:25
548swimmer
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
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Originally Posted by JamesCH95
Good deal. Look at 7075 or 2024 for the axle, with a good lathe you'll be able to get an excellent surface finish and great strength. I don't know if you have one, but a HSS reamer to do the inside of any polymer bearing is much much much easier/faster/idiot proof than boring it out.
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10-05-2010 18:59
AdamHeard
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
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Originally Posted by 548swimmer
We usually just drill it out on a lathe, and all of our machining is very high quality because we have access to the Milford Proving Grounds machine shop. I guess we could ream it, but it's unlikely anyone will remember to do that by the time this gets made, if it even does, in September/ this summer.
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10-05-2010 19:03
548swimmer
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
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Originally Posted by AdamHeard
Reaming doesn't really take much longer than drilling, I don't see any reason not to do it.
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10-05-2010 19:07
AdamHeard
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
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Originally Posted by 548swimmer
Remembering. Many of the build team members are so used to working in our school's "shop" where we have no reamers, that when we are in a real shop, we just go straight for the drill bits because we're used to them. If we remember to ream, there is no reason for us not to.
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10-05-2010 19:08
548swimmer
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
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Originally Posted by AdamHeard
We work in our school's shop as well, and purchased the few sizes of reamers we routinely use; they were inexpensive and well worth it.
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I'll figure that out at our next meeting, along with the answer
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11-05-2010 09:05
JamesCH95
Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
Drill bits are great for clearing material out and for making holes where fasteners can pass through, but a drill bit will never come close to surface finish or precision of a reamer. Say you're making the bearing for a 1/2" axle, I would drill with a 0.4921 jobber bit then ream to 0.5010, a HSS reamer in that size is $21 from McMaster and has a tolerance of +/- 0.0003" an impractical tolerance for drilling or boring, but anyone can do it with a reamer.
Best of luck!
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