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This is my first crack at a drivetrain. Sorry, it's not WCD, it doesn't have cantilevered wheels.
Here's the general specs/approach.
1/8" dropped center wheel
4 7/8" Banebots wheels (50 durometer)
Everything is 1/8" 3x1 C Channel
Chassis without the wheels and transmissions/motors weighs 10.5 lbs
20-05-2010 19:09
sdcantrell56I hate to say it but this definitely isn't a West Coast Drive (WCD).
That being said it looks incredibly solid for a first drivetrain. Adding a bellypan on the entire bottom would greatly strengthen things. Also how are you planning to tension the chains and what wheels are you using?
20-05-2010 19:43
Garret
| I hate to say it but this definitely isn't a West Coast Drive (WCD). |
. if there are other requirements, what are they?
20-05-2010 19:45
Rion Atkinson
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What do you mean? I thought west coast drive was just a dropped center wheel
. if there are other requirements, what are they?from the picture it looks like the center wheel is dropped but its hard to tell. |
20-05-2010 19:48
Eugene Fang
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What do you mean? I thought west coast drive was just a dropped center wheel
. if there are other requirements, what are they? |
20-05-2010 19:48
Garret
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A west coast drive typically infers that the outer most point on your chassis are the wheels.
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20-05-2010 19:56
548swimmerLooks good! What is the total weight? And are your center wheels along a line perpendicular to the side plates, or are they slightly offset from each other?
20-05-2010 20:00
sanddragHas anyone else noticed that the teams who developed the so-called "West Coast Drive" rarely ever refer to it as such? Strange how the name kind of took off.
20-05-2010 20:01
Rion Atkinson
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Has anyone else noticed that the teams who developed the so-called "West Coast Drive" rarely ever refer to it as such? Strange how the name kind of took off.
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20-05-2010 20:26
sdcantrell56|
The ones that come to mind are:
Live axles Typically 6wd dropped center (or 8wd in some cases) Direct drive from transmission to center wheel Dropped center wheel Cantilevered wheels |
20-05-2010 20:49
sgreco|
Yup that sounds good to me. Im glad this one is not a WCD though per se. It seems that everyone has been jumping on the wcd bandwagon possibly without considering other styles of drive all the while neglecting to implement many of the key benefits of west coast drives.
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20-05-2010 20:56
Dave McLaughlinI believe that this is in fact not part of the sheet metal bandwagon... To me this looks like C-Channel is designed to be welded... Hopefully Stephanie will elaborate further on her drive system and it's components.
20-05-2010 21:06
BrendanB|
What do you mean? I thought west coast drive was just a dropped center wheel
. if there are other requirements, what are they?from the picture it looks like the center wheel is dropped but its hard to tell. |
20-05-2010 21:20
sgreco|
I believe that this is in fact not part of the sheet metal bandwagon... To me this looks like C-Channel is designed to be welded... Hopefully Stephanie will elaborate further on her drive system and it's components.
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20-05-2010 21:48
ttldominationI'm interested about a couple of things.
1. Are those custom gearboxes? Or are they specific ones you found online?
2. What is the weight of the frame?
Other than that, this is not w WCD, or the definition of WCD that I am familiar with. But the frame looks nice. I'm worried that some of the extrusions in the frame leave the the metal between a little thin, but it looks excellent.
21-05-2010 19:58
Stephi RaeI'll try to answer most of your questions here.
I apologize I got the terminology a little mixed up.
Dave is correct, this is not a sheet metal drive, it is 1/8" 3x1 C channel. It is a little difficult to see in the picture, I apologize. If I have some time later, maybe I'll render a few other perspectives and post them.
It is all C channel. The idea I took was to make things easy to manufacture and easy to get to. All four side rails are completely identical. Front and back are identical as well.
Everything except the outermost side rails would be welded together, and the outermost rails are bolted on via standoffs and brackets at the ends/corners. This would make the outer rails easy to take off and maintain the drive, if necessary. If weight became a concern, these would be replaced with polycarb, as many teams have done previously.
The outer rail channel has cutouts around each of the wheels.
Inventor says the frame is around 10 lbs. Like I mentioned before, there are things that could easily be changed if weight became a concern.
As far as the trussing and cutouts go, there is at least 1/4" material between every cutout, often more.
The wheels are 50 durometer Banebots wheels with the unfinished hubs. There are custom hubs that interface with the wheels after they have been modified to have a larger hole. Outer wheels are dead axle, center are keyed.
There are vertical slots in the side rails that hold a chain tensioner.
I'm not really sure what you're asking 548swimmer, but the wheels are all inline with each other and the center wheel is exactly in the center of the robot.
If I missed a question, or if you have more, feel free to bring it up again, or ask.
21-05-2010 20:20
Edoc'silIf all your wheels are in line with each other you will not be able to turn. you need to lower the middle wheel so there are never more then 4 wheels on the ground at a time.
21-05-2010 23:19
Stephi RaeBy inline I was trying to address the question that swimmer posed, but I'm not really sure what he was getting at. If you'll notice in the description of the picture, the center wheel is dropped 1/8".
21-05-2010 23:50
Edoc'sil
Sorry I assumed that was what he was referring to. I did read you OP but is was a few days ago and I totally forgot. I have no idea what swimmer meant, he is hard to follow at best.
22-05-2010 00:55
R.C.
Really Cool Chassis and a great start.
A Few Suggestions:
-Ever thought about riveting it all together and then adding a few welds? It would help make it easier to assemble and easier for our welder. We did that this year with our bottom part of our chassis.
-I would honestly pocket less. Its often way stronger to leave it unpocketed. I mean your only losing so much weight. Around the wheels and gearbox I would honestly unpocket it.
-Also wheels selection, why banebot wheels. We bought some a few years ago and the tread seems to wear very easily unless you get a high durometer. They are cheap, but I would switch to pneumatic wheels or Colsons. I'm sure Sean (1771) or someone can elaborate on Colson wheels.
A Few Questions:
-What gearbox is that: ratio, output speed and weight?
-Are you planning to mount electronics somewhere?
-For the chain tensioner, are you pinching the chain down or stretching it up?
Good Job and keep having fun.
-RC
22-05-2010 01:52
artdutra04
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-Also wheels selection, why banebot wheels. We bought some a few years ago and the tread seems to wear very easily unless you get a high durometer. They are cheap, but I would switch to pneumatic wheels or Colsons. I'm sure Sean (1771) or someone can elaborate on Colson wheels.
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22-05-2010 14:15
sdcantrell56I would definitely recommend colsons as well. We did the same thing as art this year. Bought stock colsons and put hubs in them. They work great and are designed for durability whereas the banebot wheels are basically childs toys. I've seen and heard of way too many failures/manufacturing inconsistencies with the banebots to ever consider them.
23-05-2010 15:15
548swimmer|
I'm not really sure what you're asking 548swimmer, but the wheels are all inline with each other and the center wheel is exactly in the center of the robot.
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23-05-2010 16:35
Brandon Holley
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I would definitely recommend colsons as well. We did the same thing as art this year. Bought stock colsons and put hubs in them. They work great and are designed for durability whereas the banebot wheels are basically childs toys. I've seen and heard of way too many failures/manufacturing inconsistencies with the banebots to ever consider them.
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23-05-2010 17:19
Chris is meI've never seen Banebots wheels used successfully in a robot. I've heard of teams getting them with the bore off center by as much as half an inch. I've seen teams make them fail with only 3 seconds of load. I would go with AM, Colsons, your own wheels, etc. (or if you want to be super cool, take a scooter wheel and put it on your robot!!! no traction but who cares, they're awesome!)