|
|
|
![]() |
|
|||||||
|
||||||||
After the GREAT season of Logomotion has ended, I have decided to cad a 6WD (due to a little robot hangover). But after leading CAD this year I think I have come along way since the start of this year (from Nov.
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/35965) Please critique and comment on this!! I love all the help I can get!!
18-05-2011 23:27
steelerbornDo you have any tensioning plans on the outside wheels? I can't really tell, but that is important. It looks very nice, everyone always gets better after the season is over, keep it up.
19-05-2011 00:15
MattC9|
Do you have any tensioning plans on the outside wheels? I can't really tell, but that is important. It looks very nice, everyone always gets better after the season is over, keep it up.
|
19-05-2011 00:24
Akash Rastogi
19-05-2011 00:30
MattC9|
With smaller wheels, you can distance your wheels more, giving you a longer wheelbase. Note: wheelbase is distance between wheels, not overall length of the drive.
|
19-05-2011 00:41
PAR_WIG1350
19-05-2011 07:53
Al Skierkiewicz
Matt,
Nice drawing. Now time to add some holes for mounting bumpers and add bumper supports between the wheels.
19-05-2011 08:11
Joey PNice Chassis drawing. I am also the leader of CAD on my team. I have seen an improvement on my skills from start of the season to the end. Now, just add more to it. the wheel size is interesting. I have hardly seen small wheels like that on the past robots, but it seems to be a good idea. Keep going.
19-05-2011 08:12
Jared Russell
Since you are already making bearing plates, it wouldn't be too difficult to slot their mounts in the frame rails and make a true "West Coast Drive" tensioner. Loosen mounting hardware, slide bearing block until chain/belt is tight, re-tighten (works even better with cam bolts or some sort of lead-screw to help keep the block in place once tensioned).
19-05-2011 11:32
akoscielski3
My team has never made a chassis that has the wheels on the other side of the frame. I was wondering how you do this? Is it using a hex shaft or what? Could you possibly explain all of this or maybe put up a CAD design to download or even a close up picture. That way i could see how it works and maybe use a drivetrain like this in the future.
Thanks 
20-05-2011 01:33
steelerbornThere are a lot of great tensioning systems you could use. Obviously the easiest set-up would be just adding the kop tensioning system. But interesting systems are also around you could look at cam tension systems for the outside wheels. Making the center wheel direct driven would allow only the outside wheels that would need tensioning. I came up with a lot of crazy systems that would all yield the same result. My favorite one used surgical tubing to move the outside wheels farther out. In the end there is no true answer but a endless supply of them. You have all summer, I would say to experiment a little and find a unique solution that is your design. Keep it up.
20-05-2011 15:23
MattC9|
There are a lot of great tensioning systems you could use. Obviously the easiest set-up would be just adding the kop tensioning system. But interesting systems are also around you could look at cam tension systems for the outside wheels. Making the center wheel direct driven would allow only the outside wheels that would need tensioning. I came up with a lot of crazy systems that would all yield the same result. My favorite one used surgical tubing to move the outside wheels farther out. In the end there is no true answer but a endless supply of them. You have all summer, I would say to experiment a little and find a unique solution that is your design. Keep it up.
|
|
My team has never made a chassis that has the wheels on the other side of the frame. I was wondering how you do this? Is it using a hex shaft or what? Could you possibly explain all of this or maybe put up a CAD design to download or even a close up picture. That way i could see how it works and maybe use a drivetrain like this in the future.
Thanks |
20-05-2011 16:25
akoscielski3
|
I used a 1/8 keyed shaft in the picture and I put an E-clip on the end of the wheel to keep it in place. Do you still want up close pictures? |
20-05-2011 17:04
steelerbornhttp://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-0286.htm
These came in the KOP I beleive last year I have no idea if they are still included. The design is from RC he is from team 1323 Madtown robotics. I know there are still some issues with them but these may work for you, they are a great design.
20-05-2011 18:05
MattC9|
http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-0286.htm
These came in the KOP I beleive last year I have no idea if they are still included. The design is from RC he is from team 1323 Madtown robotics. I know there are still some issues with them but these may work for you, they are a great design. |
22-05-2011 23:30
MattC9|
I actually was thinking of it while sleeping... and noticed that u can use the key slots. Is everything key slot or no. Also how do you make the slot for the E-clip, is it just done on the lathe?
And is the only thing holding the shaft straight the brace on the side of the tubing + the tube? |
05-06-2011 21:21
Triple B|
Do you have any tensioning plans on the outside wheels? I can't really tell, but that is important. It looks very nice, everyone always gets better after the season is over, keep it up.
|
05-06-2011 22:05
MattC9|
I actually was thinking of it while sleeping... and noticed that u can use the key slots. Is everything key slot or no. Also how do you make the slot for the E-clip, is it just done on the lathe?
And is the only thing holding the shaft straight the brace on the side of the tubing + the tube? |