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This season taught me a lot about drivetrain design, so I tried to put what I learned into a base to build this off-season.
The 6 cims are geared 1:6 (inspiration from 1986) for a speed of about 14fps. There is no front plate on the gearboxes as there is only one reduction.
There's a secondary frame that will hold the bumpers and create an octagonal frame perimeter (inspiration from 971) to help with friction pins.
The wheels are 4" Colsons with WCP hubs for their balance of traction and durability.
Total weight for everything seen here is 42lbs.
05-07-2014 18:58
It seems like with the octagonal frame, you have room for 2" wide - if not wider - wheels. With the 4" Colsons coming in a 2" wide variety, is there any reason you opted to choose the 1.5" wide wheels?
05-07-2014 19:29
Ty Tremblay|
It seems like with the octagonal frame, you have room for 2" wide - if not wider - wheels. With the 4" Colsons coming in a 2" wide variety, is there any reason you opted to choose the 1.5" wide wheels?
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05-07-2014 19:39
Deke|
Good catch. I had originally designed the drivetrain without the octagonal frame up top. Now that I've added it, I have room for the 2" wide wheels. The only qualm I have is that I won't be able to use an e-clip to hold the wheels on the shaft because the WCP hubs are 1.5" thick. I suppose a screw, a washer, and some loc-tite would suffice. Thoughts?
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05-07-2014 19:41
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Good catch. I had originally designed the drivetrain without the octagonal frame up top. Now that I've added it, I have room for the 2" wide wheels. The only qualm I have is that I won't be able to use an e-clip to hold the wheels on the shaft because the WCP hubs are 1.5" thick. I suppose a screw, a washer, and some loc-tite would suffice. Thoughts?
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05-07-2014 19:42
EricDrost|
I suppose a screw, a washer, and some loc-tite would suffice. Thoughts?
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05-07-2014 19:44
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This works well. I'd use a cap screw (which you can tighten with a wrench, not a screw driver/hex key) so you can get some extra torque on it.
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05-07-2014 19:48
EricDrost|
In this particular scenario where there is a small, confined space for a tool to fit into, I'm not sure if you will be able to position a wrench in a way that allows you to get a significant torque advantage. A standard socket head should be sufficient to get the required torque, and the loctite will help in keeping things in.
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05-07-2014 20:03
Akash Rastogi|
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you, but I'm not understanding how you could fit a wrench inside the 1 3/16" bore of the wheel and hold it perpendicularly to the axis of rotation so that you can get the mechanical advantage to gain the extra torque.
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05-07-2014 20:03
EricDrost
05-07-2014 20:03
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Socket...not adjustable...
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05-07-2014 20:05
Ty Tremblay|
Another question - is your bellypan just not lightened yet, or are you using a solid piece of aluminum? If you don't have the resources to waterjet a diamond-bellypan, I highly suggest using a solid piece of 6mm or 1/4" thick plywood as a bellypan. It's much lighter than a solid aluminum plate, and will serve well as an electronics pan as well as providing the torsional stiffness the diagonals that a diamond bellypan provide.
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06-07-2014 01:09
AustinSchuh|
The plan is to use either .0625" polycarbonate or garolite to allow us to leave it solid, maintain the weight advantage, and to easily mount and insulate electronics.
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06-07-2014 01:15
sanddrag
![]() This is our drivetrain with incorrect screws retaining the wheels. |
06-07-2014 02:05
Akash Rastogi|
That is a thing of beauty. I can't believe I haven't seen it before. What's the part number on those wheels, and do you have a link to any more pictures?
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06-07-2014 12:00
AdamHeard
Using a bolt to retain the wheels and take up all slop is a bad idea as it will preload the bearings. It's also more likely to loosen the fastener.
06-07-2014 12:31
Chris is me|
Using a bolt to retain the wheels and take up all slop is a bad idea as it will preload the bearings. It's also more likely to loosen the fastener.
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06-07-2014 12:58
Andrew RemmersKind of reminds me of an old 179 drive.
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/img...67e7a6da_l.jpg
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/img...87d7b504_l.jpg
06-07-2014 14:37
IndySam
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Using a bolt to retain the wheels and take up all slop is a bad idea as it will preload the bearings. It's also more likely to loosen the fastener.
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06-07-2014 14:41
AdamHeard
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We have used a bolt to retain wheels for three years and have never had a single problem. We do not take up slop with them, we always leave a little slop just like you would with a retaining clip.
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07-07-2014 04:39
Brandon_L
07-07-2014 16:42
Aren Siekmeier|
Is there a reason that thread locking screws aren't used in that situation more commonly? We ran them this year on our wheel axles, with e-clips on the inside and we've never had to adjust them and never had any issues. We use them pretty frequently on other assemblies as well and I love them.
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We've used bolts, washers, and loctite in the past because drilling and tapping the hole seemed like the easier way to go, rather than machining a groove, but in the interest of maintenance, we'll definitely check out snap rings for the future. If you bother to machine the grooves and have the right tools, it seems far more convenient.
07-07-2014 17:13
AdamHeard
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How many uses is the nylon good for? We remove wheels all the time, not just for wheel maintenance, but also for shaft maintenance and if they got in the way of something else because our design was too constrained...
We've used bolts, washers, and loctite in the past because drilling and tapping the hole seemed like the easier way to go, rather than machining a groove, but in the interest of maintenance, we'll definitely check out snap rings for the future. If you bother to machine the grooves and have the right tools, it seems far more convenient. |
07-07-2014 17:23
Aren Siekmeier|
If you have people with basic lathe skills, the snap ring groove is actually a faster operation than drilling + tapping.
If the shaft was predilled (already had a hole in it), it'd become comparable but I still think the groove is a tad less tedious to machine than tapping once the skillset is obtained. Also, the tolerances for the groove width and depth are are like +.003/-0.0 and +/-.002 but we've been fine in situations where we've botched that by quite a bit. So it isn't as daunting as that makes it seem. The width tolerance is set by your insert too, so you don't even deal with that. |
