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I've been playing around with 221's SimpleTube concept. Here's my first concept of a simple WCD drivetrain running the chains inside the tubes.
Specs:
- 2-CIM ball shifters on 3.5" colsons
- Outer wheels modified to have a slightly smaller diameter.
- 6/15 fps
- 221's custom sprockets for in-tube chain.
- ~35lbs as shown
- Welded chassis with riveted .090" belly pan.
- Wheel base can be changed as long as the C-C distance is adjusted for proper #25 chain tension.
20-05-2015 15:37
AdamHeard
I really like the use of tubing to mount the ballshifter, very clever.
20-05-2015 15:50
Ty TremblayThanks. I basically got rid of the plate and standoffs that come with the 3rd stage kit and made the output shaft and gear part of the drive rail. The gearbox then bolts on. I had reservations about putting 3 bearings on the same shaft, but since it's bolt tolerances holding the 3rd one on, I'm fairly comfortable with it.
Here's a pic with one gearbox removed.
20-05-2015 16:00
notmattlythgoe
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Thanks. I basically got rid of the plate and standoffs that come with the 3rd stage kit and made the output shaft and gear part of the drive rail. The gearbox then bolts on. I had reservations about putting 3 bearings on the same shaft, but since it's bolt tolerances holding the 3rd one on, I'm fairly comfortable with it. Here's a pic with one gearbox removed. |
20-05-2015 16:01
Ty Tremblay|
Brilliant. This is the current weakness in our chain in tube design using the ball shifters. Consider this stolen :cough: I mean borrowed.
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20-05-2015 16:28
Bennett548You mention reducing the diameter of the outer wheels, have you considered increasing the diameter of the middle wheel?
I'm thinking that versawheels with blue nitrile might have a large enough OD to give a decent amount of rock with 4" Colson wheels on the outside.
Alternatively, you could use 4" wheels on the back and middle and a 3.5" wheel on the front. That gives you the same amount of rock as a 1/8" center drop.
Edit: You can also use a vex 16 tooth sprocket on the 3.5" wheel down from the 17 tooth sprocket on the 4" wheels to try to get the surface speeds of the wheels more closely matched. This should reduce wheel wear.
20-05-2015 16:34
Ty Tremblay|
You mention reducing the diameter of the outer wheels, have you considered increasing the diameter of the middle wheel?
I'm thinking that versawheels with blue nitrile might have a large enough OD to give a decent amount of rock with 4" Colson wheels on the outside. Alternatively, you could use 4" wheels on the back and middle and a 3.5" wheel on the front. That gives you the same amount of rock as a 1/8" center drop. |
20-05-2015 17:00
Bennett548Thanks for the CAD, looks pretty darn simple and bulletproof.
As far as colsons, Vexpro has 4", 3.5", and 3" Colsons. If we build something like your design I think we will use 1/2" smaller dia front wheels, whether we use 4" or 3.5" wheels for the rest.
20-05-2015 22:51
philsoHow are you going to attach the two vertical pieces of tubing to the horizontal frame tube on each side? It looks like there is not a lot of surface area and any fasteners that protrude into the frame tube may interfere with the chain and/or sprocket.
20-05-2015 22:52
Gregor
What's the reason for the slots in the tube that mount the gearbox?
21-05-2015 01:07
AdamHeard
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What's the reason for the slots in the tube that mount the gearbox?
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21-05-2015 04:23
Aren Siekmeier|
What's the reason for the slots in the tube that mount the gearbox?
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21-05-2015 06:56
TD78
Really nice job Ty....thank you for posting your model. I think this design concept will start to become more popular in the near future.
21-05-2015 09:24
Ty Tremblay|
How are you going to attach the two vertical pieces of tubing to the horizontal frame tube on each side? It looks like there is not a lot of surface area and any fasteners that protrude into the frame tube may interfere with the chain and/or sprocket.
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What's the reason for the slots in the tube that mount the gearbox?
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21-05-2015 10:57
pribusinNice! Do you have a cutaway of the inside of the tube-in-chain? I'm not quite sure what the inside would look like. How do you assemble this? are there access slots/holes to access the chain?
21-05-2015 10:59
Sperkowsky
Call this a stupid question but how do you assemble the chains and sprockets inside the tubing.
21-05-2015 11:28
notmattlythgoe
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Call this a stupid question but how do you assemble the chains and sprockets inside the tubing.
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21-05-2015 13:41
Bryce Paputa
21-05-2015 14:07
Ty Tremblay|
If you're using the 17t sprockets from 221, a wheel c-c distance that's divisible by .25 won't work without using a half link, which gave us problems. The distance should be something like 11.625 where if you divide it by .25 the remainder is .125.
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09-06-2015 17:16
chrisflHave you been successful with #25 chain in the drivetrain? Im working on one right now and it is spaced for #25 chain.
09-06-2015 17:42
asid61|
Have you been successful with #25 chain in the drivetrain? Im working on one right now and it is spaced for #25 chain.
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10-06-2015 14:13
ToddF
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Have you been successful with #25 chain in the drivetrain? I'm working on one right now and it is spaced for #25 chain.
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29-12-2015 13:06
Ty TremblayI've made a few updates to this drive train.
29-12-2015 14:40
notmattlythgoe
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I've made a few updates to this drive train.
Updated model No welding setup No welding drive rail |
29-12-2015 15:03
Ty Tremblay
30-12-2015 05:16
Cash4587|
I have not. I used the mantra of "copy the best and invent the rest" (thanks Mike Corsetto).
I took inspiration from 118's 2014 CAD as well as 971's one-bumper manufacturing style with reinforced corners. ![]() We plan to do our own testing, but if 118's design lasted the season in Aerial Assault, my initial hunch is that our more conservative design will too. |
30-12-2015 11:26
Ty Tremblay|
That round tube you see on their drive was actually only to fulfill the rule that there should be no "unsupported" side of the bumper greater than 8" After seeing it at competition it really didn't even support the bumper but it was there only to pass inspection.
I'm not quite sure how they mounted it but my guess is they just tapped the ends of that tube or round stock and bolted it onto those large 2x1 uprights. IIRC the inspectors made them lift their robot by their "Bumper supports" (The round stock in the screenshot) in order for them to pass the inspection proving that "Those actually do support the bumpers". They used those large holes with large threaded bolts attached to the bumpers to mount their bumpers to their robot. If I were to use what 118 did, I would in fact just use a piece of aluminum rod or even thunderhex shaft that is tapped to do what they did in a similar fashion. |
30-12-2015 12:02
billbo911I really like this design and may consider proposing it, if it makes sence for the game.
I do think there is a problem with it though. Assembling the transmissions to the chassis. (Please correct me if I wrong here.)
If I am seeing this correctly, the tube mounts need to be installed to the frame first, then the transmissions to the mounts. The problem is, the drive shaft is long enough that motors will not allow correct alignment to the two rail bearings because the belly pan is in the way. Servicing this, or replacing a motor might be a bit difficult.
If these issues are easy to address, please explain how. I like this design and would love to use it!
30-12-2015 12:19
Aren Siekmeier|
I really like this design and may consider proposing it, if it makes sence for the game.
I do think there is a problem with it though. Assembling the transmissions to the chassis. (Please correct me if I wrong here.) If I am seeing this correctly, the tube mounts need to be installed to the frame first, then the transmissions to the mounts. The problem is, the drive shaft is long enough that motors will not allow correct alignment to the two rail bearings because the belly pan is in the way. Servicing this, or replacing a motor might be a bit difficult. If these issues are easy to address, please explain how. I like this design and would love to use it! |
30-12-2015 12:22
billbo911|
The drive shaft on the middle wheel, along with the gear on that shaft, remains in the tube when the transmission is removed. The interface between the removable transmission and the frame consists of the mounting bolts and the gear interface.
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30-12-2015 14:53
waialua359I cant believe I missed this thread earlier. We may look into this.
Even with the relatively small amount of space saved, makes a big difference on the footprint of the control system parts on the bellypan.
With a modulated frame that we are using, this is even easier to access our chain.
30-12-2015 23:20
Ty TremblayRealized I've been having a 7 month long brain fart.
If you increase the spacing of the output gear from the rail by .25", you can bolt on 1"x1"x.125" tubing and use that to mount your gearbox. VexPro sells .25" acetal spacers with a .5" hex broach.
Top-down view
31-12-2015 00:54
RyanCahoon
31-12-2015 02:27
Aren Siekmeier|
Realized I've been having a 7 month long brain fart.
If you increase the spacing of the output gear from the rail by .25", you can bolt on 1"x1"x.125" tubing and use that to mount your gearbox. VexPro sells .25" acetal spacers with a .5" hex broach. Top-down view |
31-12-2015 05:51
Ty Tremblay|
I thought your original version that started this thread was basically this with a 1"x0.75" tube for the gearbox mount...
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31-12-2015 07:39
Ty Tremblay|
How difficult will it be to install those gearbox mount bolts?
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31-12-2015 13:14
Aren Siekmeier|
If you can easily find 1x.75 tubing, then that's a great way to go. It's not easily acquirable for our team, so we'll be milling down a piece of 1x1 and welding it on.
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