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This is a render of LEGO Swerve Drive module design I have been working on lately. My final design will be a four wheel crab. I am still experimenting with whether to use chain or gears for turning the wheels. Has anyone ever done something similar and have some tips for the final design? If you have any questions, please ask them.
04-06-2015 23:14
asid61
04-06-2015 23:14
Jarren HarkemaI have worked a lot with LEGO technic construction, even tried my hand at this a couple of times. 24t gears between turntables was promising. You will be putting way to much stress on chains. The key for all of this is to support the gears as best as possible. Your module is nice and compact. The only recommendation I would have is replace the 3-long axel on that 12t with something to run the full length between the two 3x5 liftarms. This will keep the 12t from skipping with the 20t, attached to the wheel, as well as prevent the driving gear from falling off its axel.
05-06-2015 03:06
Mike Marandola
I think you got carried away with the pocketing.
05-06-2015 07:47
Richard Wallace
Ok, this is pretty cool. Thank you for posting it.
What supports the drive shaft? Is there something to limit upward travel of the drive gear? The rest of your design is easier to see in this render.
05-06-2015 09:03
bstewThanks for all of your helpful replies!
I have a question of my own regarding the TETRIX chain as I have never worked with it. Is it compatible using the LEGO gears as sprockets? I have a good amount of LEGO chain, but it tends to fail quite easily.
If I can't use chain, I have a design that connects all of the modules together with 40 tooth gears. It seems to work well, but I haven't tested it with all four modules because I only have one module until my order of parts arrives.
In the image, some parts are a bit hard to see from this angle, so I can clarify them. The reason the 12 tooth gear is on a 3m axle is because if I extend it across between the liftarms, it rubs on the tire. The way it is now is the best solution I could come up with. And yes, the vertical drive shaft is supported by the black piece that you can barely see right below the turntable. The drive gear cannot move upward because of it.
As for weight, the module weighs about an eighth of a pound, probably one of the lightests swerve designs ever.
I might be able to get a another render at a different angle so that the underside of the turntable can be seen better.
05-06-2015 09:17
faust1706
05-06-2015 10:36
notmattlythgoe
We're looking at working on some swerve this summer and we might have to build this to play around with control concepts. Awesome job.
05-06-2015 10:55
JesseKThis is definitely cool, but I think in order to survive the obstacles from (e.g.) my childhood bedroom you'll probably want 3 pods rather than 4, and maybe some bigger wheels 
LEGOs + one of those electric race car tracks (even the simple figure 8) FTW.
05-06-2015 12:10
Jarren Harkema|
The reason the 12 tooth gear is on a 3m axle is because if I extend it across between the liftarms, it rubs on the tire. The way it is now is the best solution I could come up with.
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05-06-2015 13:51
s_forbesDefinitely want the axle for the idler gear to go across, otherwise it will shake loose / skip teeth / add friction. If you have clearance issues, a different wheel could be used. Lego parts 3482 (wheel) and 3483 (tire) clear the axle with that gear spacing.
More wheels: http://isodomos.com/Visual-Parts-Helper/Lego-Wheel.html
Here's a tiny LEGO swerve drive I made ages ago, using the differential gear piece as the swerve body and bearing. It drove around fine, but in the end they're still tiny plastic parts and can't handle a lot of load.
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/28935
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/28936
05-06-2015 14:10
Calvin HartleyI haven't tried one of these in years, perhaps it would be worth another go.
Perhaps try using the 4-knob gears? They keep a strong connection if you brace them well enough, though you won't get the same ratio, of course.
05-06-2015 19:58
bstewThe tires I am using must be a bit bigger than the the tires in the render because I had problems fitting an axle in. While I wish I had smaller tires, the ones I have will probably have to do. Thanks for your help anyway.
Here's a render of the bottom of the module for those who want to see it:

06-06-2015 02:47
Nato|
I have worked a lot with LEGO technic construction, even tried my hand at this a couple of times. 24t gears between turntables was promising. You will be putting way to much stress on chains. The key for all of this is to support the gears as best as possible. Your module is nice and compact. The only recommendation I would have is replace the 3-long axel on that 12t with something to run the full length between the two 3x5 liftarms. This will keep the 12t from skipping with the 20t, attached to the wheel, as well as prevent the driving gear from falling off its axel.
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06-06-2015 09:25
philsoThis is cool and so elegantly compact. The one Steve made is cool too.
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The reason the 12 tooth gear is on a 3m axle is because if I extend it across between the liftarms, it rubs on the tire. The way it is now is the best solution I could come up with.
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06-06-2015 11:54
Calvin Hartley|
The tires I am using must be a bit bigger than the the tires in the render because I had problems fitting an axle in. While I wish I had smaller tires, the ones I have will probably have to do. Thanks for your help anyway.
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08-06-2015 14:18
carpedav000Would this work with having one module in the center of the robot and a caster on every corner? That way it takes a lot less gears to drive and only one gear to turn.
08-06-2015 14:42
asid61|
Would this work with having one module in the center of the robot and a caster on every corner? That way it takes a lot less gears to drive and only one gear to turn.
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08-06-2015 14:46
tindleroot|
Would this work with having one module in the center of the robot and a caster on every corner? That way it takes a lot less gears to drive and only one gear to turn.
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09-06-2015 15:53
samfruthI just made a swerve drive using this module and it worked great for me. The only modification I made was with the bottom axel because it kept coming lose from the L brackets. I used a gray piece that was just longer than the original light grey piece and has an end cap on it. Two modules was all I used and for motors I had three of the small motors that come with the EV3.
Thanks for sharing this!
09-06-2015 21:21
bstewThanks for all of the replies! Thanks Nato for telling me about similar designs. They will be helpful if I run into problems.
I am progressing with the design of the robot as I await pieces to arrive. I think I will be using a set of 40 tooth gears and an NXT motor for turning the modules. I probably will use chain and the medium EV3 motor for turning the wheels. I will still have two motors left for other actions because I will control it with an EV3. After completing it, I think I will try to do some FLL missions to evaluate its viability for FLL.
10-06-2015 22:54
AlexanderTheOKStrange that theres no pictures of this outside of the render. I thought i would make it, and gear it for speed.
Heres the simplest one I could make with nxt 2.0 parts. surprisingly sturdy considering the drive motor is attached at literally at only one other point outside the drive shaft. Love the shaft catchy thingy.
11-06-2015 16:03
faust1706
20-06-2015 20:08
AlexanderTheOKHate to resurrect a thread, but a friend and I decided to have some fun with our access to some NXT 2.0 kits and made a 2 wheel swerve using this design. The stacking he came up with is the most aesthetically pleasing thing I've seen all month. Didn't have time to program it, and I doubt we could have since I believe the nxt 2.00 motors use tachometers instead of encoders.
Still fun to drive though, with one phone controlling steering and the other controlling speed it vaguely resembles swerve movement.
20-06-2015 22:25
bstew|
Hate to resurrect a thread, but a friend and I decided to have some fun with our access to some NXT 2.0 kits and made a 2 wheel swerve using this design. The stacking he came up with is the most aesthetically pleasing thing I've seen all month. Didn't have time to program it, and I doubt we could have since I believe the nxt 2.00 motors use tachometers instead of encoders.
Still fun to drive though, with one phone controlling steering and the other controlling speed it vaguely resembles swerve movement. |
20-06-2015 23:20
PAR_WIG1350|
Hate to resurrect a thread, but a friend and I decided to have some fun with our access to some NXT 2.0 kits and made a 2 wheel swerve using this design. The stacking he came up with is the most aesthetically pleasing thing I've seen all month. Didn't have time to program it, and I doubt we could have since I believe the nxt 2.00 motors use tachometers instead of encoders.
Still fun to drive though, with one phone controlling steering and the other controlling speed it vaguely resembles swerve movement. |
21-06-2015 13:37
philso|
...I believe the nxt 2.00 motors use tachometers instead of encoders...
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21-06-2015 17:39
AlexanderTheOK|
The NXT (and EV3) motors all have optical encoders in them, not tachometers.
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