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 Don't ever give up on your robot, especially this early in the season. That robot is what you make of it. If you give it your all, something good is bound to come your way. - Amanda Morrison [more] |
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By: jkelleyrtp
New: 06-01-2016 20:58
Updated: 06-01-2016 22:04
Views: 1860 times
A few weeks ago there was a lot of talk about hexagonal shaped chassis designs. This is inspired by the conversation in an effort to demonstrate hex rails are easy enough to manufacture and assemble, and only weigh 1.2 lbs (each) without lightening holes.
Overall, this chassis weighs around 13lbs and we plan to use Colsons. The design is pretty vanilla but I think people will like the ability to easily add some hex rails with just some square tubing and L stock.
More pictures here
Discussion
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06-01-2016 23:53
Ty Tremblay
Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
If you want to go all in with a hexagonal frame perimeter, you could flip your corner wheels to the inside of your rails. This would let you spread your rails out further, increasing your wheelbase and giving you more room on top.
I played with the idea in this thread, but I think it could be even more effective with chain-in-tube.
07-01-2016 09:25
thedude019
Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
What are the dimensions of the frame without the extra tubing?
07-01-2016 09:28
Chris is me
Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
Flipping the outer wheels to the inside of the chassis has been suggested but it does make your footprint nice. You also might as well make the center wheel super wide (3"?) to take advantage of the neat effect roughtop tread has on traction when you have a small, wide wheel.
As for your belly pan, I would leave a bit of a web / perimeter around the inside of the chassis instead of starting the lightening pattern immediately after the tube "ends". Maybe it's just aesthetics, but I think it's a smidge stronger that way. I would also use more smaller cutouts rather than the big wide cutouts so that the belly pan is a fair bit stiffer.
You can probably get away with 16 wall tubing for all of the bumper supports, which is a lot stronger than lightened 1/8" wall tubing and lighter than most lightening patterns in 1/8".
07-01-2016 10:08
jkelleyrtp
Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
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Originally Posted by thedude019
What are the dimensions of the frame without the extra tubing?
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Originally Posted by Chris is me;
As for your belly pan, I would leave a bit of a web / perimeter around the inside of the chassis instead of starting the lightening pattern immediately after the tube "ends". Maybe it's just aesthetics, but I think it's a smidge stronger that way. I would also use more smaller cutouts rather than the big wide cutouts so that the belly pan is a fair bit stiffer.
You can probably get away with 16 wall tubing for all of the bumper supports, which is a lot stronger than lightened 1/8" wall tubing and lighter than most lightening patterns in 1/8". |
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Originally Posted by Ty Tremblay;
If you want to go all in with a hexagonal frame perimeter, you could flip your corner wheels to the inside of your rails. This would let you spread your rails out further, increasing your wheelbase and giving you more room on top.
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07-01-2016 14:40
Ty Tremblay
Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
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Originally Posted by jkelleyrtp
I just read through the entire thread and I really like the idea of moving the wheels in. My main concern is that there would be more scrubbing as the farthest wheels are a bit farther from the middle wheels, but it seems as it has the opposite effect (which is nice). I'll post a v2 later with the wheels on the inside.
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Honestly, it doesn't seem any more difficult than a rectangular drivetrain. I may have convinced myself to build one of these this year if it's right for the game.
08-01-2016 09:47
thedude019
Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
If this is going to be your frame for this season, i recommend keeping the tubes with the wheels open on each end. Assuming youre doing a chain-in-drive system, the open ends make it easier to access the sprockets for maintenance.
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