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This is an idea for a drivetrain that I've been kicking around for a little while now. I was surprised to not find anything like it on Chief or anywhere else. The Versablocks are all oriented upwards, so there is no center drop. The omni wheels should allow easy turning and also increase traction when moving straight back and forth. No drop = no rock from acceleration, so bumpers on this drivetrain will always be lower than an opposing robot's, allowing it to "steal" traction in a pushing match using the other robot's weight. All in all, I think this design would perform exceptionally well in playing defence and harassing opposing robots with it's pushing strength. I'm interested to hear any feedback available.
07-10-2016 22:06
Cothron TheissThat looks great! How heavy is it, and about how much would it cost?
07-10-2016 23:03
Osseus_Dominum|
That looks great! How heavy is it, and about how much would it cost?
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08-10-2016 00:03
ThaddeusMaximusGreat, now I'm thinking about lawyering the rules to use differently-sized pool noodles which make wedged bumpers...
08-10-2016 00:09
Jeremy Germita
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Great, now I'm thinking about lawyering the rules to use differently-sized pool noodles which make wedged bumpers...
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All pool noodles used on a ROBOT must be the same in order to maintain the desired interaction between ROBOTs in the cases of BUMPER-to-BUMPER contact. BUMPERS containing pool noodles of vastly different construction may cause a “ramp” effect when interacting with other BUMPERS. |
08-10-2016 00:18
Cothron TheissDoes that 38 lbs include the battery? 38 sounds a little heavy, but that may just be the 8 wheels and the relatively heavy gearboxes and motors. I would suggest you look at JVN's design calculator to figure out your gear ratios. You're designing this drivetrain to win pushing matches, so you'll need to make sure your low gear is low enough that your motors don't burn out.
Also, you may want to push the Colsons on each side out to the front and back of the chassis. Your inner wheels are quite close together, and while the Omni's will cause some turning scrub, you may find this still turns too quickly for your driver's comfort.
If you want to drop your price point on this, you could look at a different (custom?) gearbox. You could also consider switching to smaller wheels for the purpose of using the 3.25" Omni's that already have the hex bore. This will save about $12 per wheel since you don't need VersaHubs. There are other small things here and there you can do to lower the cost without increasing the need for machining much.
Also, I see no reason not to use #25 chain.
08-10-2016 00:30
Steven SmithYou might consider looking at this post, it's for VEX but concepts apply.
Vex Forums
Not to discourage you, it's great to see people looking and figuring things out for themselves, but most combinations of "what happens if I put X wheel in Y position" have been pretty thoroughly looked at for tank drivetrains. You are just left with a bunch of trade-offs, and the magic is in selecting the right drivetrain for what you need it to do, not necessarily trying to find a magic drivetrain that is far superior in all cases.
In this case, let's compare to a 4 wheel omni (basically take out your center wheels), an 8 wheel omni, and an 8 wheel tank.
Increasing the number of wheels is usually a factor of what you need to traverse. More wheels reduces the amount of space between the wheels, allowing it to claw over. Additionally, by staggering the drop of the wheels, such as in a 6 wheel drop center (or 8... 10... 12... whatever), you can trade off stability (rocking) for reducing turning scrub. Adding more wheels can also give you a little more "middle stability" in the neutral state.
An omni wheel already has pretty good traction in the forward direction, and can push fairly well. What it doesn't have is any resistance to lateral movement. If you look at a 4 wheel omni drive (like the 2014 JVN buildBlitz, or any number of other ones), it almost drives like a drifting car. With drive practice, you can do some interesting things to throw it around... but you are also at a higher risk of being spun.
So to your drivetrain, you have a risk if the omni wheels are preferentially weighted (design tolerances, weight shift under acceleration) of acting more like a 4 wheel omni drive. You probably don't have substantially more pushing power than an 8 wheel omni drive, but you have a little more resistance to being pushed sideways... while still more at risk of being spun. So basically, you have a set of tradeoffs that gives you some of the benefits of a 4 wheel omni and some of the benefits of an 8 wheel drop center tank, some of the disadvantages of either, etc. At the risk of beating this horse dead, I just want to emphasize that you don't get the advantages of both as well as dodging the disadvantages of both, it is just a blend.
That being said, depending on the year, it might all be a valid set of trade-offs and lead to a pretty solid drive train. Build it and see what you think 
Edit: Also as a note, I'm not sure how significant the "lower bumper" comment is. Most drop drive trains (outside of pneumatic wheel years like last year) are on the order of 1/16" to 1/8". When you are talking about a several inch bumper contact patch, I think the drop center difference will be lost in the noise when compared to other variables (bumper construction, driver practice) when you talk about defensive play. (just imho)
08-10-2016 00:36
roboruler|
You could also consider switching to smaller wheels for the purpose of using the 3.25" Omni's that already have the hex bore. This will save about $12 per wheel since you don't need VersaHubs.
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08-10-2016 00:36
Chris is meThis isn't exactly new; this wasn't an uncommon layout in 2010 and later when 8WDs started gaining traction.
In short these have similar results to a 2 traction 4 omni setup vs a 6WD. Most of the problems "solved" by this drive are minuscule / imaginary. Rock shouldnt be big enough to be the difference maker in a bumper to bumper pushing match; we are literally talking about a 1/16th inch difference in bumper height here. The omni wheels lower resistance to being spun more than the 8WD all traction designs do given the same wheel layout. Omnis also don't match the lateral traction of Colsons or traded traction wheels, so you're giving up a little there.
Basically, you need a really good reason to not have a drop center for this to be the right call. Given that an unequal spaced 8WD already doesn't do much rocking at all, it's hard to find a niche for this drive.
08-10-2016 01:03
Osseus_Dominum| This isn't exactly new; this wasn't an uncommon layout in 2010 and later when 8WDs started gaining traction. |
08-10-2016 01:30
EricH
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Do hou have any pictures of 8 wheel drives like this? I haven't been able to find any.
Regarding your concern about lateral traction and being pushed or spun, I don't see how this would be any more at risk. An 8 colson wheel drivetrain with center drop will only ever have 4 colsons giving traction at any one time, just like this drivetrain. So why is this more susceptible to spins? |
08-10-2016 10:07
bstew|
Do hou have any pictures of 8 wheel drives like this? I haven't been able to find any.
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08-10-2016 10:51
jwfossMounting your bumpers as low as possible and limited rock is an excellent way to gain traction in a pushing match, and something 558 does as well. Where we differ is that if we are designing for maximum pushing force we believe that any wheel that touches the ground should be a traction wheel. Understand that any wheel that is in contact with the ground is providing traction, and increasing the number of contact points with the ground reduces the normal force on each wheel. Typically 558 will design an 8wd with a larger center to center distance between the middle wheels to increase scrub and make the robot both more stable at speed, and more resistant to spinning.
In basic terms, an 8wd robot with drop center will provide more pushing force than an 8wd with omnis on the outside all other things equal.
08-10-2016 13:01
AdamHeard
If accurate, 38 pounds is actually on the lighter side for a 6 CIM shifting drivetrain with wide traction wheels.
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Does that 38 lbs include the battery? 38 sounds a little heavy, but that may just be the 8 wheels and the relatively heavy gearboxes and motors. I would suggest you look at JVN's design calculator to figure out your gear ratios. You're designing this drivetrain to win pushing matches, so you'll need to make sure your low gear is low enough that your motors don't burn out.
Also, you may want to push the Colsons on each side out to the front and back of the chassis. Your inner wheels are quite close together, and while the Omni's will cause some turning scrub, you may find this still turns too quickly for your driver's comfort. If you want to drop your price point on this, you could look at a different (custom?) gearbox. You could also consider switching to smaller wheels for the purpose of using the 3.25" Omni's that already have the hex bore. This will save about $12 per wheel since you don't need VersaHubs. There are other small things here and there you can do to lower the cost without increasing the need for machining much. Also, I see no reason not to use #25 chain. |
08-10-2016 13:05
billbo911By placing omni wheels in the front and rear, you are creating a drive train with what amounts to a very short wheelbase and very wide track.
This will make turning very easy, almost too easy. It may turn out to be a bit squirly to drive.
You may want to consider adding a gyro to assist with driving straight.
08-10-2016 23:50
philsoIt may be beneficial to consider what the normal force on each wheel would be and the behaviour of your chassis as it drives over a floor that is not perfectly flat. What happens if the four high-traction wheels in the middle have a slightly smaller diameter than the omni-wheels?
08-10-2016 23:52
Christopher149Today I saw an FTC robot on Twitter which basically looks a 6-wheel version of OP's model.
09-10-2016 02:44
Lil' Lavery
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Do hou have any pictures of 8 wheel drives like this? I haven't been able to find any.
Regarding your concern about lateral traction and being pushed or spun, I don't see how this would be any more at risk. An 8 colson wheel drivetrain with center drop will only ever have 4 colsons giving traction at any one time, just like this drivetrain. So why is this more susceptible to spins? |
09-10-2016 12:31
BrendanBThanks for sharing your design! CD needs more of this.
Some quick comments. Unless you adjust the spacers on the Ballshifter third stage I don't believe there is enough room for #35 chain. Remember you want to have clearance on both sides of the sprocket for the chain.
With the 8wd if you switch your chain routes it will allow you to sneak the outer chains in a little making the shafts shorter and save a little real estate in your bellypan.
It looks really solid. Nice work!
09-10-2016 13:53
thefro526
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Great, now I'm thinking about lawyering the rules to use differently-sized pool noodles which make wedged bumpers...
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09-10-2016 18:17
CogJust a heads up, those west coast drive clamping hubs are a nightmare to work with. They constantly slip if you use them to hold significant tension on a chain.
09-10-2016 18:32
roboruler|
Just a heads up, those west coast drive clamping hubs are a nightmare to work with. They constantly slip if you use them to hold significant tension on a chain.
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09-10-2016 19:28
ThaddeusMaximus|
2016, R21.C
Blue box from that rule: |
10-10-2016 02:57
Paul RichardsonI think there is a fundamental issue with your approach. Many people have tried to solve this problem over the years and I think they're all solving the wrong problem.
What benefit does pushing another robot provide?
On offense, if you engage a pushing match you've done exactly what the defense wants you to do: waste your time. FRC isn't about what you can do, it's about how efficiently you can do it.
On defense, you've placed yourself in your least maneuverable orientation as a tank drive. A good offensive robot will avoid pushing matches and try to just go around to the side. It's hard to move sideways when you're facing forward.
As a defender you have the advantage when you sit perpendicular to an approaching offensive robot. By using your wide side against their narrow side you can be in the wrong spot by a bit and still get in their way. You can react to jukes by just driving straight while your opponent has to turn. It's also really easy to build a robot that's good for this, you just need traction wheels, quick acceleration, and a long wheelbase that's hard to spin. A great driver could play perfect defense without ever touching the other robot just by being in the right spot at the right time.
Now, that works great until they actually do get around you, in which case you still want to slow them down. The majority of robots are still susceptible to the T-bone pin, which almost any drivetrain can do. Just drive into the side of their robot and watch them drive helplessly in circles wishing they had some omni wheels or an angled frame.
10-10-2016 05:28
cbale2000
11-10-2016 17:11
mgreene|
This isn't exactly new; this wasn't an uncommon layout in 2010 and later when 8WDs started gaining traction.
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21-10-2016 16:30
jspatz1|
1986 used a drive like this in 2014. A video of just the drivetrain is located here. There are certainly many other examples, but this is the one that comes to my mind.
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21-10-2016 19:20
BrendanB
22-10-2016 00:40
carpedav000|
On an 8wd robot where the center wheels are lower than the outer ones, the robot simply tilts back onto the rear wheels and maintains traction, but for a no-drop drive system, this effect will result in all of the robot weight being shifted on to you rear wheels, which in this case, have the lowest friction. All other things being equal, this design will likely not stand up in a pushing match with the majority of drop-center 8+ wheel robots, IMO.
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23-10-2016 22:07
cbale2000|
It seems like this issue could be easily remedied by mounting your drive motors/gearboxes (and battery if you have room) to the front of the robot to make it less resistant to shifting onto the back wheels. You could also build a suspension system into the wheels so that when the frame tilts, all the wheels stay on the ground (some might say that this would be too heavy, but you can make suspension systems fairly light
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24-10-2016 05:54
carpedav000|
The weight solution is a good one for pushing matches, but it affects turning in most drives and only works in one direction (often I've found you need to be able to push from either side).
The suspension is also a good solution but far more complex to build. |
25-10-2016 13:22
S1LK0124I don't know if anybody else asked this but, what is the likelihood of it tearing up the carpet? I know that the drivetrain isn't like ours from this year in the sense that we used tank treads instead of a wheel-based drive, but our drivetrain had a lot of traction, and when combined with the high torque that we had, our treads tore up the carpet a few times, resulting in a few deactivations. We later combatted this by reducing the top speed of the robot so our deceleration wouldn't be as fast, and reducing the amount of torque. I don't know if you've already considered that, but I really like your design and I don't want it to run into trouble should you wind up using it!
25-10-2016 13:40
carpedav000|
I don't know if anybody else asked this but, what is the likelihood of it tearing up the carpet? I know that the drivetrain isn't like ours from this year in the sense that we used tank treads instead of a wheel-based drive, but our drivetrain had a lot of traction, and when combined with the high torque that we had, our treads tore up the carpet a few times, resulting in a few deactivations. We later combatted this by reducing the top speed of the robot so our deceleration wouldn't be as fast, and reducing the amount of torque. I don't know if you've already considered that, but I really like your design and I don't want it to run into trouble should you wind up using it!
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25-10-2016 13:44
S1LK0124|
I don't think this would neccessarily be an issue for this drivetrain. It isn't using roughtop/grooved/patterned wheels and the contact area on the carpet is much less than a treaded drivetrain (especially treaded drivetrains that have layouts identical to or similar to yours).
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25-10-2016 14:16
carpedav000|
Okay cool. I didn't think it would, but any question is worth asking. Especially with a train like this, it seems like a really well thought out idea, and I'd hate to see an unforeseen problem arise from this! Especially after this year, our team had a lot more unforeseen problems than in the past. We've solved these problems on the robot and in our building process, but it's still a really sad thing to see when you think you're gonna do good and something nobody expects shuts you down.
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