|Much of what you do in the "real world" has no rules. You have to look yourself in the mirror and make them up as you live; knowing that what you do WILL come back to haunt you sooner or later. - dhitchco [more]|
After some recommendations and design changes, I've updated the design heavily, with most of the design inspiration from Motopreserve on CNCZone.com
06-17-2017 10:18 PMFrisbeeFunTime
I really like the way this looks. My only potential issue that really isn't an issue all things considered is that there isn't a way cover on the x-axis. I've found that with my 3040 the way over actually does a fairly good job keeping the axis clean.
06-17-2017 11:31 PMRoboChair
That is indeed a far more solid looking machine.
06-20-2017 04:50 PMDonRotolo
For greater rigidity, use a wider Y carriage; the 5 or 6 inches I see isn't wide enough to be as rigid as the underlying rail. Ditto the Z mount on the X rail
You really need to think hard on those screws: They are slow, and they will tend to whip if not properly supported (look up "slender column").
A spindle with VFD is used to get the range of speed (mostly slow) needed for cutting materials such as Alu. A router will cut Alu too. They are somewhat louder, but on a $1500 budget if $450 is one single item... Maybe start with a router ($100) and upgrade later if needed. Or build an enclosure for sound.
Spritzing coolant by hand is sub-optimal. A Harbor Freight airbrush pencil will make a fine mist sprayer with a little effort in mounting. For $10.
For Alu, you need a great way of holding the work down. Screws into wood or MDF will work, but a few strips of 80/20 to slide carriage bolts into will be better. Look at a Kronos Robotics KRMx02 to see a wonderful (but costly) bolting table.
No matter what, you will gain really valuable experience building it, and the next one will be even better!