2012 Chassis Preview

the link doesn’t work for me.

it just goes to whoever is logged in to picasa on that computer.

link isn’t quite right. It sends folks to their albums not yours.

I think I fixed the link.

If you’re trying to replicate a WCD, why not just direct drive the center wheel?

Also, are those bearing blocks COTS or would they be machined? If you plan on manufacturing them, you will need fillets in the inside corners for it to be machined.

Also, check out 2791’s 2010 chassis for help with bumper mounting.

Since they’re Gen1/Gen2 AM Shifters, there isn’t an ‘output shaft’ available for direct drive. To direct drive the wheels, they’d either need to add one into their shifter or purchase the super shifters. Option 1 should be doable if they intend to attempt WCD, but Option 2 may be limiting.

Are the bearing blocks COTS items are are they intended to be milled in-house?

Also, in noting the file name of the picture that shows off your bearing blocks – technically you’re using ‘live axles’ with this setup. Not a big deal for a file name, but you wouldn’t want to confuse the two when asking about them.

Why not just use the SuperShifter?

Price; if they have Gen1/2 then they might not want to spend $720+ to purchase more transmissions.

Ah sorry, I was just assuming they would purchase new gearboxes for next season. If not, then yeah what you said makes sense.

Make sure you’ve got a good welder for 1/16" tubing! :slight_smile:

I’m not really trying to do a full WCD. I was just taking a few ideas from it. The bearing blocks would be machined “in-house” and the reason that their are no fillets inside is because I have not done every little detail. I spent about an hour and a half yesterday doing this and will put all the details and the finishing touches later.

I’m not sure that we will be using supershifters next season. With the exception of last year, we have use custom shifting transmissions since 2004 and we will probably go with those.

Those bearing blocks are going to LOTS of fun to machine :smiley:

Yeah.

Like I stated in my first post, this might be the chassis that we will use next year. This past year we used a simple chassis that was built with 1x1 aluminum and 1/16" aluminum gussets and a whole lot of rivets.

I am trying to pass this by the mentors on my team and see if we can get an “OK” for next year.

I do like it a lot, I have just heard that machining blocks like that is kind of a difficult task, or at least the programming to get it do make that part. I wouldn’t know, but im interested in seeing how this works. I’m working on something similar myself just a bit of a different twist on things, I have falled in love with 8 wheel drives :smiley:

As have I. I can make this into an 8WD, but I just decided to do a 6. 8WD look cooler. But the downfall is that you have to buy/make two extra wheels.

If you don’t mind tensioning the chain some other way, you can use 1/8 wall tubing and no bearing blocks to make things easier to machine.

I will definitely think about that. I don’t even know if we will run live axles or got with the standard drive like we have done in the past.

I’m a little confused as to why your bearing blocks are only on the inside, and there isn’t a second mating half on the outside? The entire point of making the bearing blocks is that they can slide in a pocket to tension your chain. Without that feature there’s really no reason to have them.

Additionally, once you add the radii to those pockets on the face of the bearing blocks they’ll be so small they probably won’t even be worth machining.

Good catch. I forgot to put blocks on the outside.

I think everyone who didn’t make it to champs has the itch to start working ASAP, I know I do. But really, great CAD. Better than anyone from my team could do. :stuck_out_tongue:

Looks very nice!! but how are you going to run chain to the front wheels? Because I see you have only 1 sprocket on the center wheels.

you would be able to make it direct drive by removing the double sprocket in the transmission and extending that shaft, or removing the on side plate and using the stock shaft. Insert the shaft (which ever chosen) into a Andymark Hub that is bolted onto the wheel fasten as you would with a macanum wheel.

This is how our team has done Direct drive, it has worked for many many years.

May I ask how you made everything so shiny… for some reason i can’t find it out.

I am also designing chassis’s in solidworks, but mine never have the nice colour yours are like. :frowning:

Good luck !