We are using a Pro’skit crimper for the Anderson powerpole contacts. We are finding that the contacts always stick in the tool and are difficult to remove without bending the contacts. We found a couple of threads here mentioning this problem and advocating adding a bit of grease in die. This helped but half the crimps still stick.
Is there anything we are doing wrong? Do the people with the tools from Powerwerx or West Mountain Radio have this problem?
Does anyone have a problem with the contacts sticking when being crimped on the wires coming out of the Talon motor controllers? It seems that the conductor size for the high strand count wires like those coming out of the Talon motor controllers is larger than the nominal size and makes this worse. I have seen this with the larger, high strand count wire I was using at work. The manufacturers datasheets showed the conductor diameters to be larger than the standard size for the nominal wire size and have had to use lugs for the next larger nominal wire size.
Yes. We have had this problem with the PP45 contacts and red handled crimpers. We got a new orange handled crimpers that is a little better, but the sticking and sub-optimal pullout strength of some of our crimps makes me want to spring for the official Anderson crimper.
Or, we may just go to PP30 terminals which have the round barrel.
We are finding that the round PP30 crimps are sticking in the tool too
We have an orange one labelled “Anderson Power Pole” that does not stick. One die is a semi-circle. The other one is a “spike” that presses into the top of the crimp. It does not compress the crimps enough to properly retain the smaller 14 AWG wire.
We have the orange handled crimper and have about 1 in 5 stick. If you apply downward force on both the wire and the end of the crimp they don’t bend.
We will try the grease on the dies idea though.
We have the same orange handled tricrimp crimper and have never had one stick. Maybe we are just lucky…
Is everyone using the proper size wire for the contacts they are using? I’ll ask our student who did all of our crimps last year, but I never heard of any trouble.
I have an orange-handled tri-crimp and have had no trouble with sticking which was at all problematic, just a couple of ounces pulls the terminal free.
I checked with @Pereichi, who was 3946’s main crimper guy for three seasons. He says that sometimes this problem will occur if you strip off too much insulation. You should have insulation at least partially inside the connector.
Bare copper wire slides off of those connectors like a hot knife and butter. The isolation keeps it from sliding off and prevents wires from becoming to lose over time.
Sometimes the isolation is so thick that you are forced to use a crimp made for the next wire size up, but having the metal grip the insolation is key to a life long crimp. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the feedback. I will speak with the teacher who does the purchasing to have him purchase the TriCrimp from Powerwerx.
Does the TriCrimp work properly with the wires for the Talons i.e. crimps don’t get stuck in it?
I’ve had pretty good luck with the TriCrimp. It takes some practice to use well. There are two downsides to it: (1) the jaws start very open and don’t align the wire to the contact when fully open, so you have to slightly close the jaws before inserting the wire; (2) sometimes the contacts seat too deeply, particularly if you’re holding it sideways to help with (1). If it happens, the latter causes a “ridge” on the front end that isn’t crimped and prevents the contact from inserting into the housing, but it’s easily corrected by repeating the crimp with the contact a bit further back.
It is not uncommon to use a small amount of lubricant on the outside of the contact being crimped. A spritz of WD40 or similar, drop of oil, a tiny dab of grease…
Of course of the die is faulty in some way - design or wear for instance - replace it.
We have been using this crimper:
As far as I know, we do not have issues with contacts binding or sticking inside the crimp tool. Is this what others are using as well?
Thanks again for all your input. The girls applied grease on every crimp to day and had a much less sticking. We need to place an order with AndyMark so we will probably get one of the TriCrimps from them too.
I did a couple of SPXs in October, no problem. I’m pretty certain the SPX and SRX wires are the same. I think I used the PP45’s, but will check this evening.
First, I would like a picture, that would be a big help. Second, I usually start the crimp with just the terminal to be sure that both flags of the terminal are in the “v” of the female side of the crimp jaws. Then insert the wire and continue crimping. We use the West Mountain Radio crimper for most of our work but I have also added a High Sierra Antenna crimper with replaceable jaws. They had a special on crimp tools last Christmas and I got the tool for $39. Since I need coax crimping at home, I wanted one tool with several jaw sets. The jaw set I have does 15, 30, 45 and 75 amp contacts. I have never needed to use lube on Anderson Contacts. I like the West Mountain Radio tool as it has contact retention. The others do not.
One thing to remember (go to the official Anderson site) is there are different contacts for various gauges of wire. Check you are using the right one (the 15-30 and 45 amp contacts all fit the same housing, and will interconnect)
I’ve found that the folks at https://powerwerx.com/ have a great selection. I’ve used them for a LONG time (2001) for my ham radio stuff
We have been using the PP45 contacts as Al described above.
We have used the PP45 with 10AWG and 12AWG and they both jam in our crimpers. The PP30’s also jam with 12AWG but seem to be okay with 14AWG. Sometimes, it take so much force to complete the cycle on the crimper that I have to finish it for the students. I suspect that the dies on the crimpers we have now are not quite right and try to compress too much and/or have the wrong shape on the female side.
We are aiming to get a TriCrimp since AndyMark sells it and we have to get other parts from them.
I checked the crimps I did on the two SPXs and an SRX I had forgotten about because I never used it in October. I used the PP45 connectors, and did NOT put any of the insulation inside the crimps, but I do have the insulation right up against the connector. I re-tug-tested about half of the connections, and each is good. There was no sticking. when I did them in the Tri-Crimp.
One thing I can see as I look at them which might go wrong: If you strip too much insulation, and push the insulation up against the end of the connector, you could wind up with wire inside the smaller secondary crimp wings. Perhaps these secondary crimp wings are where the connectors are sticking.
Thanks for checking Gus.
I don’t think the Anderson PP contacts are supposed to grip the insulation. The types I have used that do grip the insulation have a second set of wings that are separate from the wings that are crimped around the bare conductor. The ones for the PWM wires from Hansen Hobbies are an example of crimps that are meant to grab the insulation in addition to the conductor.