If we have one side of the frame cut so that the middle is open and there is a six inch edge on both sides. would the bumpers along the six inch edges have to be perpendicular to the end of the frame? Rather than having the bumper at a 90 degree angle to the frame, could it be more tapered to allow easier intake at that point? There doesn’t seem to be a mention of bumper edge angles in the manual as long as the full corner is covered.
With the six inch on the both sides and the corners being covered, y’all should be good, we are doing the same thing and we have read the manual over and over again, so it should be aloud.
In past years, they have said that angle-cut pool noodles at the end of a bumper do not meet the bumper “cross section” requirement. Now, if your side is longer than 6", you could do that, if you have 6" of the required cross-section, but you could also cut the side shorter.
Might want to do a Q & A to be sure.
No matter the distance from the corner (less than 6" or more than 6"), the cross-section requirement stays the same.
I’m hearing two different things here, and they are both not allowed.
- Squillo appears to be talking about the cross section of bumpers. the bumper ends that are not robot corners need to be two flat cut noodles up to the very end of the wood backing. Imagine that the bumpers are an extrusion, you can only do straight cuts at non-corners.
2)O’Hare and jgormley appear to be talking about using the bumpers themselves as a funnel to get cubes into the gap. This is also not allowed, because the bumpers are not on the frame perimeter at that point. Look specifically at the “convex shape” part of the rules. In CAD terms, the two segments of bumper on each end of the gap need to be co-planar with each other. If they are not co-planar, then you are either getting bumpers inside your frame perimeter or you are making more corners on your frame perimeter that would need more bumpers.
Please see attached images for pictures
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2)O’Hare and jgormley appear to be talking about using the bumpers themselves as a funnel to get cubes into the gap. This is also not allowed, because the bumpers are not on the frame perimeter at that point. Look specifically at the “convex shape” part of the rules. In CAD terms, the two segments of bumper on each end of the gap need to be co-planar with each other. If they are not co-planar, then you are either getting bumpers inside your frame perimeter or you are making more corners on your frame perimeter that would need more bumpers.
Please see attached images for pictures
Sorry,i didn’t explain it well, we have the first one
The bumpers must be “squared off” at the open ends, such that the entire 6" length is protected by a full thickness of noodle. Look at figure 8-7, and treat it as if that is the left side of your front bumper, looking down from above. Tapered noodles do not provide the 2 1/2 (nominal) noodle protection the entire length of the plywood backing. R30C requires you maintain the cross-section shown in figure 8-6 the entire length of the BUMPER.
I know that previous years experiences cannot be used for this year (blah, blah, blah) but we have been taken to task for even deforming the square ends of the noodle by uneven tightening of the covering to try and get a slightly tapered intake.
We have exactly the same design (opening in frame, with exactly 6" of BUMPER on each side). Note: you need to have 6" of FRAME PERIMETER covered by BUMPERS, which may be slightly different than 6" of plywood length, depending on how your BUMPERS fit. In our case the side BUMPERS have a 1/4" gap away form the FRAME PERIMTER, due to minor protrusions, so the inside measurement of our front BUMPERS is actually 6 1/4".