Attaching D-Link

How are you guys attaching your D-Link? We have been using velcro, but that’s just unsafe and ugly, so we are looking for more insightful ways of attaching the D-Link to the frame. Any suggestions?

we put foam under it and then zip tie it down

We used the screw holes (+ screws) and zip ties.

PS. There is very strong velcro out there, we used it for our signage. I believe we bought it from a fabric store. This stuff takes an unusual amount of force to unfasten it.

We screwed the plastic stand onto the electrical board and zip tied the radio to the stand.

industrial Velcro is what we use. When It is unused, screws come out easier.

Standard wide Velcro seems to work fine for the TechnoKats.

I’m not sure how Velcro is unsafe in this application. Care to elaborate?

Since we had no safe surface area to velcro the bridge to the robot this year, we had a mount holding the bridge with bungee cord straps. I think we are going to redo the mount. You can kind of see it on the right side of the robot near the base in the picture. http://tinyurl.com/7x3oxnh

Velcro with some zip-ties as back up seems to do well. Just remember to make sure the zip ties don’t accidentally knock you out of Bridge mode and that wherever you mount it up, the lights are visible.

1675 also uses wide velcro and some zipties for insurance.

3M makes a nice product that is velcro like but a lot stronger called Dual lock. It comes in various types and sizes and is available from Digikey.

If you have Lego League teams, Lego League uses it to attach the mission models to the table as well.

On our alliance, in the final round, one robot (using velcro) lost its router, and we lost… so we pledged not to use velcro again.

Has anyone worked out a way to bolt it on, or clamp it or something?

clamp: sheet metal bracket: 3 sides held by sheetmeatal (with holes for fans) and last side held by a strap off to the side so that is doesn’t cover lights

or clamp: have a block of sturdy material with a hole on one side that matches outline of router. have 4 holes (1 per corner)…that are clearance and have inset spots on each side to lock in nuts. (this is for materials that don’t hold threads well)

OR

…that are properly sized and threaded for the bolt you want to use.

personally I would use the first hole option (if i used a clamp at all) since it is easier to replace one or 2 nuts then the entire part in the case of binding and it is faster to remove. For teams with the ability to use sheet metal but don’t the accuracy needed for a tight compression hold block I would recommend The top clamp however the second clamp is typically lighter and easier to produce if you do have the needed accuracy.

The use of hook and loop fasteners is not necessarily the problem. Steps can be taken to avoid this:

  1. Use the greatest possible area to mount the radio. The more velcro you use, the more distributed the load will be and the more reliable it will be.
  2. Inspect the state of the fasteners before you mount it to the opposite velcro material. Do this every time you put it on the robot. If it is too fluffy (indicative of broken loops) or hooks apear to be broken, replace it with fresh velcro. Confirm the conection by pulling against it lightly, then pushing it back if it is good.
  3. use the strongest velcro available. The strength of the adhesive backing is just as important as thar of the hooks and loops.

If you really don’t want to use Velcro, or you just want to reinforce it, try adhesive backed zip-tie anchors (note: These particular anchors might not be the best, use anchors with an adhesive strong enough to suite your needs).

I should have mentioned early on that any method you use should not block the cooling slots on any side of the DAP1522. Be advised that there is also two antenna assemblies mounted on the internal board. Consideration should be given to keep the box out in the open, away from steel objects and not surrounded by large metal assemblies. The antennas can become detuned or occluded by these assemblies.

We bend 1/8" polycarb into the shape of a case and rest the D-link in there. There is an opening on one side which we secure by “industrial” velcro.

We also learned not to velcro only the area where the label is (in the centre of the bottom of the D-link)… the label itself delaminates and the radio falls free from the velcro.

If you use cable ties, be careful that you do not fasten over the switches. You can change a switch setting tightening a cable tie.