Hey guys,
I was looking to purchase this solenoid for my team from Automation Direct. However, I am unclear as to whether or not they come with the 11mm DIN cables. If they don’t, is there somewhere I can get them other than AD? They seem to be out of stock at the moment, and I would like to have some on hand for the season.
Thanks so much!
Judging by the “What’s in the box” picture and the cables’ appearance on the “Recommended Items” list, I would say no to their inclusion. Not sure where else to get them.
Yeah, I was assuming that from that. I should have been more clear in the OP, this thread from a year ago seems to indicate that they do, which is why I wanted confirmation.
Looking back on it, it seems that I misread it.
As a followup, does anyone know if I can just plug these connectors directly into the solenoid, as opposed to using the female cables?
EDIT: Looked into it a bit. Data sheets are there for a reason! 
It looks like the only difference is the direction that the wires run. The connectors should work for both. Thanks all!
The “whats in the box” picture shows the 2 connectors screwed on top of the solenoid pins. They’re the dark grey things on top with the little screw. You’ll just need the wire. The advantage to the ready made connectors, with the wire, you can buy on the site is that they are a little bit better built and they include an indicator led on top of the connector housing. The ones in the box are cheap and flimsy, but they are probably good enough for FRC. The LED is also very handy for diagnosing problems.
The best source for info on anything from Automation direct is to call them. They have awesome support and always get back to me very quickly if I can’t speak to someone right away. It’s the reason I buy as much stuff from them whenever I can at work.
You do not need to buy anything else besides the solenoids. The accessory cables are quite big and clunky anyway - good for industrial applications but not suitable for robots.
Sounds like this has been answered already, but if you need further assistance with any AutomationDirect parts, please let me know.
Does this mean I just solder it to the connector? To that end, is there a diagram showing which pins to solder to? I read that we only need to use the two black wires on the accessory cables to use it with the PCM, and I would like to know which pins these correspond to on the connector.
We use the AVS-52xx units, and have used the AVS-32xx units in the past. Same connector.
There is a screw that holds the connector shell on, just remove it, lace through the wires, and screw them down into place using a regular screwdriver, and put the connector shell on. It is simple. You don’t need to buy the cables for FRC because it will save you weight and money.
It’s super easy. Buy one and try it out.
I just wish all of you would stop calling them “solenoids”.
They’re valves. Solenoid valves.
The solenoid is the little magnet inside that shifts it. But it is first and foremost a valve.
If you wanted a blue car, you wouldn’t say “where do I buy a “blue”?”
In the event you are a grammar cop as well: Your correct. 
Sorry, don’t mean to prod you. Did you leave the ground pins disconnected? I’m looking at the data sheet and there’s pins 1, 2, and GND on each side of the solenoid. From the product insert, 1 and 2 are marked as DC+ and DC- respectively. Since these are DC solenoids, is there any danger in leaving GND unhooked?
EDIT: Here’s a photo of said insert.
Just wire pins 1 and 2, and you are all done.
It’s that easy !
Thank you!
Hey! Just making sure that you’re aware this is a 3/2 valve, not a 5/2. It will actuate either half a cylinder (Spring retract, spring extend, or gravity return) or an air motor, but it won’t work with a standard double acting cylinder.
Yep! I realized this soon after I posted the thread. Realisitcally going to end up purchasing this one.
Thanks for the heads up
Good choice. These are actually Bimba/Mead valves, rebranded by Automation Direct.
Any reason for a dual acting over a spring return?
I’m surprised no one mentioned this as an option (see photo). remove both the shroud and the header and just connect directly to the pins using crimp lugs …
The only disadvantage is you loose the built-in diagnostic LED …
Again, you only need two pins…
In theory? Simply the amount of control one gives us over the other. Spring return is by no means a bad thing, but I’m in the camp of thinking that it’s best to keep the state of the solenoid after disabling, for safety if for nothing else.
In reality, it depends on the application. If it turns out it might be better to use spring return, we can always pick some up. I figure it makes more sense to buy ones that are a bit more versatile.
You’re right!
The other disadvantage in this is that you now have two convenient connections (which are fairly easily bent) right next to each other. A bad bump, or some dropped metal shavings, and they short out.
Best practice is to protect your solenoids in some way, I’ve seen way too many teams mount them out on their arms.
