We used the ball shifters this year, and AM shifters last year. Previously we had used kitbot single-speed transmissions.
I’ll first talk about the downsides to the ball shifters. Though their glass-filled nylon shells were very light, they were not very durable. After a season of decent maintenance, we have a crack on one of the competition bot’s shifters. (It’s still working fine, though.) In addition, until they’re mounted, the two halves of the shell are held together only by two 8-32 button head screws, which personally makes me very uncomfortable about the security of the whole thing.
As mentioned by many others, the output shaft tends to come out when regular force is applied; we suspect it’s because it’s held in by low-quality Loctite applied after the hardened steel part of the shaft has already been greased. We pinned ours after through-drilling with a carbide bit to hold the shaft in place.
On one of our shafts, the hardened steel acquired a hairline fracture after light use; this was probably an anomaly, and IFI quickly sent us replacements.
The pancake cylinder is attached to the body of the gearbox by really small standoffs held by 6-32 screws. We never had any problems, but I know some other teams don’t believe this is secure enough.
The final thing I have to say about the mechanical construction of the gearbox regards the encoder gear. Simply put, the method that IFI uses to drive the encoder is absolute trash and should neither be trusted, nor reused on the next iteration of the gearbox. The delrin gear that drives the encoder is simply pressed into the back side of the output shaft. This press is very unreliable, and we had to superglue ours in place to prevent slipping. The superglue also cracked once during the competition season, and had to be reapplied. IFI, please find some other way of driving an encoder from your gearbox.
Finally, I wish they had more output speed and spread options on the gearbox. The speed certainly may be too fast for many drivetrains, and needs a third stage to get within a comfortable level.
However, the ball shifter has a large list of advantages over typical dog-clutch gearboxes. As it comes, it’s very light. I’m sure many teams appreciated that this year.
The actual ball-shifting mechanism is extremely solid, reliable and fast. Our team, anecdotally, noticed better shifting response times compared to last year’s drivetrain. In addition, because the balls rest and spin on a central pin, it’s much stronger than a dog gear is; team 20’s broken dog at IRI comes to mind. With a dog gear, there’s also the constant risk of shearing the screw that transfers torque. The ball shifter, though, only really has 4 modes of failure within the shifting mechanism: all 3 hardened steel ball bearings break; or the hardened steel shaft breaks; or the aluminum 7075 pin gets crushed, or the aluminum 7075 gear shears where the ball-shifting pattern is. None of these is remotely likely.
Assembly is simple, as mentioned above.
The pancake cylinder is good quality, and works great. The whole gearbox is pretty space-efficient as well.
Overall, I firmly believe that the ball shifter’s advantages outweigh its downsides. If I were to use them again, I would probably rehouse the innards in a custom gearbox to alleviate some of the issues we had. I believe 1114 did that this year. Hope this review helped.
Did you guys have a lot of Taco Tuesdays, or something?