We used double sided tape last year to stick down all of the components of the control system. We have to reuse the system, so what’s the best way to remove the double sided tape cleanly and easily. (The tape is super super sticky/strong).
You could use a knife to peel it off, then a small amount of diluted rubbing alcohol, on a q-tip, to get the residue off.
Will isopropyl alcohol do the job?
If you can somehow apply Acetone to it, that would do the trick.
They are the same thing. Rubbing alcohol usually refers to 70% isopropyl alcohol.
I’d make sure you wipe it off once you are done also, just to make sure it doesn’t linger and eat through the plastics.
Got it. Thanks.
Goo Gone works wonders on adhesive.
More likely to eat plastic, though, in my experience.
That’s exactly what i was thinking. I thinking isopropyl alcohol should be good enough, and I don’t think it’ll eat the plastic.
I have had lots of success with WD40 and removing various adhesives.
I would stay away from alcohol. Different types of plastics do not react well with isopropyl alcohol.
Depending on where and what you are removing. Try using a wooden artists knife (toothpick, chopstix, etc.) and put some WD40 on the tape and work the two parts apart. Adding more WD-40 as needed.
Good luck!
Aloha
The best idea is to only use 3M VHB in the first place. It comes off clean. I know that doesn’t help your current situation, but it may save you in the future.
We recently has to take some vinyl (like car window vinyl) off a toolbox. Mineral Spirits was the only thing that did the trick without removing paint. Long working time too.
If you can use a heat gun to apply heat to the surface material (from below) that you want the tape to come clean from, then do that and apply light tension pulling it away at a 90º angle from the surface. Avoid too much heat hitting the tape itself. The idea is to lower the viscosity of the adhesive, at the bonding layer only, to increase its elasticity there and reduce its peel strength.
Once softened, it must be peeled SLOWLY, and you must watch the adhesive stretching as it lets go, to regulate the force you apply! Too rapid peeling will leave more adhesive residue on surface you want to be clean.
If selective patches of adhesive remain stuck to surface you want clean, then dab the removed tape face’s adhesive back against the surface a few times to re-bond the remaining patches over onto to the removed adhesive. They should stick preferentially to the removed adhesive tape face more so than to the surface being cleaned, and just by the number of press and remove cycles, nearly all residue should gradually let go, and transfer over to the removed tape face.
It is a process that requires patience to end up with the best results.
If the heat can only be applied to the tape side, and pass through the tape to reach the surface, the heating must be done much more gradually, bucause if the tape is much hotter than the surface, the adhesive will tent to release from the tape sooner than from the surface. Works best when surface is warmer than the tape, or at least they are equal.
However, heat can be applied from tape side , as long as it is done more gradually, allowing enough time for heat to conduct through the tape. Foam tapes act like insulators, so they need even MORE gradual heating (or baking) time if you must heat the surface below from the tape side via a heat source conducting through the tape.
-Dick Ledford
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WD-40 works wonders from our team’s experience. Spray some on the adhesive and rub hard with your thumb and it should peel off fairly easily.
DON’T do this. Acetone can weaken the plastic, and cause structural failures. I’ve watched a piece of 1/4" Lexan rubbed with acetone crumble in someone’s hand. Your best bet is probably goo gone or isopropyl alcohol.