My team is using Blue Nitrile tread for the first time this year. Do most teams use rivets all the way around the wheel or just where the two ends meet each other?
All the way around is usually preferred. That’s what we did last season and had no issues all season.
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When attaching to a performance wheel I will usually put 2 rivets next to each other on one side of the joint, then 1 in the middle of each section, then 2 next to each other on the other side of the joint. Make sure you align it so that the joint is in the center of a section, you don’t want to hit a rib when putting the rivets in.
One trick I have found that works really well is to get a large hose clamp (or join a few smaller hose clamps) and use that to clamp the tread really tight onto the wheel. You can then put in the 4 rivets around the joint (2 per side), remove the hose clamp, and install the one additional rivet per section. The hose clamp helps keep bubbles from forming as you install it, and stretches the tread to the final length before you start drilling. This ensures it is cut correctly. If for some reason you can’t get hose clamps, make sure to work your way around the wheel instead of doing both ends first. This helps work out any bubbles.
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Kind of related, but we are also using blue nitrile wheel for the first time this year. I was wondering how often people replace the tread. Is once before a competition usually sufficient?
When it wears out. Be prepared to have to replace it during a competition, but don’t replace it unless you need to. The old expression “your mileage may vary” applies here.
I’ll typically do 2x rivets on each end, and another two in the middle of the wheel. If you’re using the right size rivets you generally don’t need more than that.
Also, if you’re using standard (non-wide head) rivets, you may want to use some #8 washers to prevent the rivets from slipping through the tread.
What about using 8-32 countersunk screws and loctite to retain the tread vs rivets?
I’ve done this with our custom 3D printed wheels (since rivets and 3D printed parts don’t mix well), we designed the wheels with holes in the model along with slots for locknuts on the inside (if you’re interested, you can find them here, here, and here).
That said, I would recommend button-head screws (countersunk will have a tendency to slip off)
Would rivet back-up washers work for this?
I imagine they would work fine, we’ve used #8 washers cause we had them on-hand (since they also fit 8-32 screws), but any washer that fits the rivet should work.
Be sure that you aren’t using any thermoplastic wheels while using loctite because if you get loctite (unless specifically for thermoplastics) in contact with any part of the wheels, the affected areas would start disintegrating. (Think gallium on aluminum) Our team destroyed 6 plaction wheels last year by putting loctite in our hubs. If you use aluminum performance wheels you should be fine.
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