Box tube jig for CNC Router

Hey CD,

So we have a Velox 5050, and we’ve been struggling with finding a really secure and easy way of securing 2x1 and 1x1 box tube to the bed for cutting. What kind of clamps/tricks do you guys use for this?

This thread has considerable discussion of all things relating to CNC routers for FRC applications. Discussion of tubing jigs starts in post 1, and there’s a second discussion of it starting at post 415.


We have one of theOzzyboards TubeMagic fixtures– serves us quite well for what we do with tubing on our Omio. Highly recommended, and very little hassle to set up.


I have no experience with routers, but we are considering getting one and I’ve done some research. I’ve seen these two choices, among many.

(Sniped on the ozzyboards).


We own those vices as well, but hardly use them since we got the TubeMagic. It’s just a lot easier to set up the TubeMagic correctly when we’re rapidly switching between sheet and tube.

Why switch? Why not reserve a handful of inches to leave your tubing jig permanent set up on one side of our router?

We have an Omio. We lose too much space keeping the jig in to keep it there when we’re doing sheet parts.

X6 or X8?

I buy that with an X6 (losing 8" off of only a 14" wide cutting area would stink). But with the X8, you’d still have about 14" left of usable cutting width (as much as an X6 starts with!), and outside of bellypans (which no Omio model can cut), it’s relatively rare that FRC parts need to be wider than that.

Sure you may have to reduce the amount of parts you can get in a single sheet application, but I view that as a lesser issue than having to set-up and square a tubing jig each time. On the other hand, I favor tube construction in general, so YMMV.

X8. Sorry, we’re lazy. We’ll typically set it up so we batch our tube runs and then go back to sheet.

We mostly just don’t like cutting sheet material in the shop— we have to go to the school’s shop to do it and it’s a pain to make sure everything is precisely how the school left it, because we’ll always hear about it if there’s a hair out of place.

We did pretty much the same thing shown on our Velox 5050. Plenty of room on the rest of the bed for flat parts.

The only thing different in our setup was the vise’ we used had fixture holes (identical to LMS link) on the side instead of the slotted ledge shown. This caused the side clamps we made shift the position of the vise around as it was tightened since it is over constrained. i would recommend finding the same flat ledge sort of vise.

And measure the height of each vise, theyre not all ground to the same height.

Youll also want to buy sets of parallels for each vise like this

We also created a fixture to set Y0 about 3" away from the side face of the first vise so that the stock can hang off 3" and not have to be indicated in each time.

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We’ve been using a 1" MDF spoilboard with an additional 2x4 or 2x6 attached with wood screws, which we then slot a 2" wide x (tube length+2*bit width) section into, and place the cut piece in the center. Drill the small holes in the first program, woodscrew the stock in place, mill all pockets/bearing holes and face the ends in a second program.

We have a tube magic, but struggled to get parts to stay straight in it and hold the zero. Project for this summer/fall is to see if we can tweak the tubemagic to work a little better, or go to a multiclamp fixture along the front like Tyson’s post.

(my first attempt at setting up something like that, I used a piece of 1/16th wall boxbeam to hold everything “straight” while tightening the clamp bolts down, and I think torquing down the clamps just flexed the boxbeam instead…)

Bottom line, try some stuff that you think you understand, make your own mistakes, learn a lot :slight_smile:

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I set up our Omio X8 with 3 Ozzy Tube Magics and made a sacrifice board that can be clamped into them tube and sheet work on the same machine.


Oh man I like it.

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