I’m looking for a robust network switch. Last year, we had multiple instances where our network switch would stop functioning and we would lose cameras. We ended up connecting our jetson directly to the radio, but we couldn’t tether anymore.
I’ve seen this brainboxes network switch be recommended a lot, but in this post, @AllenGregoryIV described an issue where after hard hits it would stop functioning. Has anyone else had similar experiences with this product?
We did have issues and won’t be using it again. I have heard from at least two other teams that had similar issues.
@marshall has suggested we move to this Dlink gigabit switch that they used successfully last year.
We are planning to use that this year with a separate voltage regulator. Marshall can probably add some details of their setup later.
I’m traveling at the moment (leaving the wonderful city of Montreal) and I’m going to aim to post some details within the next week (someone hold me accountable if I don’t). We have a recipe of sorts that we can stick into a paper and make it available pretty quickly.
It is a wonderful city! Do any fun thing while you were there?
Sadly I saw a hotel room and the customer’s site but it was a very cool site and I can tell you that they sponsor an FRC team and proudly display some trophies in their office entrance.
Thanks for the recommendation. This switch seems to run on 5V; could you explain why you are planning to use a regulator other than the VRM?
It’s always nice to see sponsors proudly displaying that they support FRC teams. And it’s too bad about the not seeing the city. You’ll have to go back some day and experience it better. It’s one of those cities with so much to offer.
I strongly recommend that the only thing plugged into the VRM used to power the robot radio is the radio (POE and barrel jack). Running anything else through the VRM and/or the fuse that powers the VRM adds an increased risk of something shorting and blowing that fuse or reseting the radio. We had multiple radio reboots in 2017 because of LEDs we had running off the VRM shorting and causing the radio to reset. Stopped powering them off the VRM and the resets went away. We won’t make that same mistake twice. Is it possible to run it off the VRM and be fine for an entire season, yes, will we be doing it, no.
It is possible though to run off the VRM and we’ve done it successfully for a couple years now.
You must make sure your current draw stays under the 500mA or 2A limit of each rail.
If you go over, Your VRM may overheat and let out the angry pixies or magic smoke (Your preference), Your radio may be browned out, or you may blow the 20A fuse.
In my opinion, You should only use the VRM for networking equipment.
LEDs and other non-essential items should NEVER be on the same circuit as anything essential to the operation of your robot.
I’m thinking our wiring requirement on LEDs (If we ever do them, Which I doubt we will) will be “You must be able pull all up stream breakers and fuses after the 120A master breaker without affecting, disabling, or breaking anything else.”
Ex. Pulling the snap action breaker that powers the LEDs will not disable any items critical to driving, communicating, manipulating, or sensing.
Edited 12/12/2019 at 7:04:40 PM EST for the following reason: Formatting.
Paper is up over here: ZebraSwitch - Reliable Robot Ethernet that won't break your BOM
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