Bridge lower-er Motor? (HELP!)

Hey guys, David here from team 3528. Our team is having some trouble with the bridge tipper. We have been using the window motor that we got in the kit of parts for the bridge lower-er but its not strong enough to push it down.

What kind of motors do you all use? We need to be able to replace it in 2 days (bag and tag is the 21ist!!)

You have a quite a few options to work with. You can use a gear reduction out of the window motor to give it more torque and thus more force on the end of your arm.

You can combine two window motors and use a reduction as well. You could make your pusher arm as short as possible to deliver more force.

Also, the AM-0914 is about twice as powerful as the window motor.

You can use another motor like the fisher price + fisher price gearbox if it is available.

What other motors do you have available?

We use the motors in the drivetrain. (video)

Use the window motor you have and attach an angle piece that will shove the bridge down. Those locking pins can be helpful! :smiley:

Also remember the 30 lb allowance to withhold fabricated parts. You have two days to design something that fits in the spot, but you can make it next week.

I recommend a Van Door motor, such as the one AndyMark has.

We use a window motor with an arm and a catch. The arm contacts the ramp on the catch, so that the robots forward driving motion pushes the ramp down. This is achieved by having the pivot for the arm several inches above the top of the bridge, although the drive-train has about a 5-1 mechanical disadvantage it is still more than capable of pushing the ramp down.

At a scrimmage yesterday the best bridge lowerers were a triangle like thing that people dropped then simply drove right up to the bridge and a pneumatic piston throwing down an arm. Our team is using the piston/arm and it is working excellent.

FRC Team 3601 was having an issue lowering the bridge using an arm hooked to a PG71 gear motor. To help them out, the NerdWorks placed the PG71 into a Toughbox Nano. We had previously build them a custom 10mm hex adapter for use into an AM 500 hex hub. We bored and hexed broached a 19 tooth counter shaft gear to use as an input gear and paired it with a 45 tooth output gear with a 1/2 to 3/8 hex shaft adapter. It works well.