Bunch o' questions about the new electronics layout

OK…our wiress is at work, and we need some help

1: 12-vold dedicated? what is that/where does it plug into the power distribution unit? we know the gaming adapter needs it…

2: 12-volt connectors for the I/O sidecars, do they plug into the similar looking plug on the power distributor, or do they plug into the wago ports?
we think they plug into a 30 amp breaker, but were not sure, since our data sheets dont specify.

we cannot figure out how to take off the little plastic cover protecting the male end of the wire.
any strategies that dont include destroying the male end of the wire?

4: thats it…i thought there was more

thanks in advance,
~the two guys staying late after a meeting to finish this job

We just got our new system and considering it’s finals week we haven’t gotten to play with it yet, but I can tell you that as for your third question, you can refer to the following memo from FIRST: http://usfirst.org/uploadedFiles/Relay%20Cable%20Memo.pdf

This should help you see where all the power comes from and goes to: http://www.usfirst.org/uploadedFiles/2009%20Power%20distribution%20diargam.pdf

1: The white WAGO connector that plugs into the Power Distribution Panel is for the WiFi Bridge.
The grey WAGO connector that’s built into the Power Distribution Panel is for the Axis camera.

2: The sidecars and bumpers use one of those white WAGO connectors on the boards themselves. The other end of those 12v lines connect to the Power Distribution Panel through the red/black WAGO connectors.

3: If you don’t already have it: http://www.usfirst.org/uploadedFiles/Relay%20Cable%20Memo.pdf

4: Post again :slight_smile:

There is a simple technique for removing the pin hoods from the PWM wires that is very quick and (almost) foolproof.

Grip the pin hood with needle-nose pliers or a Leatherman tool. Position the width of the hood between the jaws, near the base of the jaws. When properly positioned, it will look like you are squeezing the three PWM wires in to each other if you were to apply too much pressure - this is the correct orientation. Squeeze slowly and firmly (do this very slowly at first, until you get a feel for the right amount of pressure). As pressure is applied, the rectangular pin hood will suddenly crease and deform into a semi-hexagonal shape. Stop squeezing. At this point the hood has released, and can be pulled straight off the end of the cable with your fingers.

It takes longer to describe the procedure than to do it. Once you get the hang of it, you can remove the pin hood and free the cable in about three seconds.



If you haven’t read the 5 chapters of the FRC Control system, you are setting yourself up for damaging the entire thing.

I would not want to be the one to go before my team and tell them I blew up the cRIO because I cannected a voltage wrong.

The above comments are a very good start, but they do not replace the importance of the 1st five chapters.

I had a lot of questions on this control system and found 99% of the answers in these chapters.

I am CET certified, and because of that, know the importance of studying new systems I’m unfamiliar with. It only takes micro-seconds to release the magic smoke and empty the teams’ budget.

As far as the PWM cables, I found it quite easy to remove the protective shield by working small-pointed needle nose tips under the shield from the wire-side. There must be a locking tab there to release. It should slide it right off. If it’s too hard from one side, turn it over and try the other side.
Don’t forget to carefully remove the polarity-tabs on the other end.

Good luck in the 2009 season.