What is the best way or an alternative connector that you can use to connect CAN wiring?
Not a huge fan of the slip in connector with no clip or soldering them together so just trying to find a clip style connector that works good!
These have been working well so far:
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I would also recommend using Micro Fit connectors:
Digi-Key Components:
WM1845-ND - 50 - 2 Pin Connector
WM1841CT-ND - 200 - Pins
WM1850-ND - 50 - 2 Pin Connector
WM13070CT-ND - 200 - Pins
The caveat with these is the “correct” crimper, which is pricey around $300:
https://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0638190000_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.xml
I’ve found this to be extremely effective with the CAN wiring, but I was fortunate to be able to borrow the tool from work when I needed it. I do really like those lever locks, and would probably consider them if I didn’t have access to the tooling.
Greg
ETA: I also used these MicroFit connectors for all sensor wiring to help simplify and create quickly swappable parts, if damaged, along with these 4-Pin connectors:
WM1852-ND - 20 - 4 Pin Connector
WM1847-ND - 20 - 4 Pin Connector
3468 has decided to try using a combination of two types of splicing tap connectors to allow us to actually create a more traditional “bus” layout.
2-pin T-Tap Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFZ8CBV/
2-pin I-Tap Disconnects: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081JG4KR5/
The intention being we run a longer wire from the RIO to the PDP that we route wherever we will also need motor controllers and other CAN devices, and at those points along the path, add the T-Taps, and one side of the I-Tap quick disconnects. We then put the other side of the I-Tap on one of the two CAN Lines of the device and voila. This way, we still have the other connector to use for PWM as backup, or for testing with our servo testers for prototypes, and if one of these connectors does fail, we only use that one device, not everything after it in the chain.
One thing to note is that you do increase potential signal reflection on the bus with this method, but as long as your taps aren’t really long (we plan to keep them under 8in), it shouldn’t be a problem. Though if that changed, I’ll be sure to come back here to “eat my words”.
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We’ve run Wago lever nuts similar to what @electroken posted before for several years now, with no issues. There are two generations of the lever nuts, and the above linked ones appear to be similar to the first generation.
https://i.imgur.com/DfV6s5Y.jpg
I like the second gen Wago versions as they’re a bit slimmer, but I don’t believe they’re offered in the straight orientation. A benefit to the wago branded connectors; they include a strip distance gauge molded or marked on the body of the connector.
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+1 for WAGO 221.
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Do you think there is a cheaper version of the tool anywhere? As this is what I would like to use because it seems the most secure.
Yes, there is this set from Amazon, that has MANY different jaws for the handle. I’ve never tried them personally, but there is a jaw for that type of crimp connector.
ETA: As you would expect, MOLEX only recommends their version of crimper to guarantee the connection of the MicroFit pins.
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Unless you have experience working with small crimps, I would recommend against it. Especially if you use a different tool, you will be introducing a few more points of failure, that might be hard to diagnose as a bad or incomplete crimp. Here’s a good reference for what to check when you’re confirming your crimps:
I’ve used this crimper, very carefully, to do pwm sized crimps before. You have to be super vigilant in checking the terminals after crimping
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Barrel-Crimper-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B07G8S1BGF/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=small+terminal+crimper&qid=1579538221&sr=8-9
Edit: I own the above mentioned Astro crimper if you want any more pics or tests run.
Additionally, we use this crimper for making our own PWM and sensor cables
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Terminal-0-1-1-0mm-AWG28-18-connector/dp/B017JU20Z6 originally shown to me by @electroken
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Thanks everyone for all the ideas!
I prefer the molex SL series, Digikey part numbers below:
Pins
WM2517CT-ND
WM2510CT-ND
Crimper
WM9999-ND
I’m a big fan of these. I do 3 pin connectors for the CAN and leave the middle pin empty in case I want to plug in PWM from the RIO for some reason. I also buy housings that have 4-5 pins for Encoders, etc. This means I can have the same kind of pins for CAN, and sensors.
As for a crimper, I’ve heard any amazon dupont crimper can also do these, however I’ve never tried.
these are the best
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-Butt-Connector-Yellow/dp/B0076AY6J8
They are disposable, cheap and work very well. Your friendly neighborhood telecom guys use them all the time to splice network cable behind those grey boxes that you cannot get into.
There have been quite a few threads on this exact topic over the last few years:
https://www.chiefdelphi.com/search?q=can%20bus%20connector
We really like these connectors:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wire-connectors/clear-24-18-awg-t-tap-wire-splice-connectors-single-dual-channel/4157/
The connectors that come with the new Victor controller look great, but CTRE does not sell them separately. The rookie team we are working with had no trouble making a secure and compact connection.
Are they the same ones that come on the Falcon motors? If so, then they are indeed nice connectors. Why CTRE isn’t selling them when they’re putting them on their products I don’t know. As near as I can tell, they’re almost identical to the PWM connectors that Andymark sells except that they have two pins instead of three (the outer two) and can, in fact, be plugged into the PWM slots on the roboRIO. We’ve ordered some of the latter (even though we almost never use PWM anymore, since we prefer CAN) in order to try and make them work for our CAN bus. What I can’t find are the security clips that come on these connectors as CTRE uses them. Those are what CTRE really needs to sell, or at least tell us where they get them, so we can use them on our entire CAN bus, not just to connect the Falcons together.
Both vex and rev sell the security clips
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I think the Victors come with an actual clip not a slide style like the falcon. Not a fan of the Falcon style that’s why I made the post. Because even that clip could slide off and we would never know unless we checked after every match. Still not fool proof sadly.
You know, I searched for those on the Vex site and didn’t find them. The I followed the link and I can see why, since they’re not on the Pro part of the site. I really wish Vex wouldn’t divide things up in the way that they do. Thanks for the link!
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