Clippard Air Tank Leaking

Technical Pneumatics
1

We have tried the Clippard black air tanks. In our best try, using the air tubing we were able to get no more than 20 PSI pressure and then the compressor runs forever. The tubing we used is one of the 4 different colored spools we already had (I wasn’t at the KOP unpacking).

We tried to cut the tubing exactly square but nothing we tried seemed to work better than 20 PSI.

Anyone having better luck than we are?

In the meantime we are using a metal air tank apparently from the 2012 rookie KOP. It has only one port but actually works quite nicely using one of the push tube connectors. Same tubing was reused and same cut but perfect containment. At this time I have to presume the black air tanks are not that great.

2

We had a couple on our robot last year work just fine (we had those, plus five metal tanks, running five cylinders, two of which were our shooter). Two thoughts: does the tube leave the fitting straight or does it bend off to the side (having a tight arc can cause leakage), and are you sure that you are pushing the tube all the way in?

3

Have you traced where the leaks are occurring? Below is how we find pneumatics leaks:

  1. Take eyedrop bottle of water+dish soap
  2. Drop soapy water on every pneumatics connection and component in the system (both insertion tubing and threaded fittings).

We’ve also found all threaded fittings need plumbers tape applied regardless of the way it comes from the manufacturer. Check your solenoids for leaks as well. We use SMCs and have had to tighten ours on the manifolds to eliminate leakage.

4

^This^

In addition, use the bubble water on ALL pneumatic interfaces, not just the connectors (you’d be amazed at where you’ll get leaks).

Also, check to see if your regulator is plumbed backwards (there should be an arrow on the regulators body that shows flow direction).

5

OK. We needed to test this scientifically. We set up the leaking Clippard. It leaked from both sides. We opened a new one and connected up the same way changing nothing else. No leaks.

We put the old one back on. Leaks as before.

We opened a second new one. No leaks.

Conclusion. Bad air tank. Trashed it.

One thing we noted. The new ones allowed the hoses to be pushed in a bit further.

6

If you start caring, you might uncover a solution to a systematic problem. That’s how an organization builds institutional knowledge.

Strongly suggest building pneumatic systems in phases. Leak-check each phase before expanding the system to the next phase.

7

Sorry I shouldn’t’ve said don’t care. Our build was being shortened because of snow warning and I was getting kicked out of the lab…

We compared the tank openings visually. We looked very closely but could see no obstruction to keep the hoses from being fully inserted. And in fact they looked identical. Certainly if there are some tanks that are doing this out there everyone could benefit but I wouldn’t know what to tell people to look for other than the insertion distance difference.

8

I noticed the number of views on this thread is high so it seems there are a lot who are interested and it is worth pursuing.

Luckily the trash was not yet thrown out. The plastic tubing went in one side ok and we marked this with a marker and was 3/4 inches. On the other side it hit resistance 1/4 inch sooner and we marked this at 1/2 inches.

I had the kids saw the ends off to get a closer look at how the tubes fit in the openings. Ah ha! Somehow during manufacturing, the plastic entered to opening to cause an obstruction. It can be seen easily when holding the hole up to the light. It is definitely too narrow.

I wish I had a good close up camera to post pictures.