Our team is awaiting our Velox CNC router however we are interested in the tube jig you have on your machine Robochair. Have reviewed some of the numerous threads but did not see any description of plans for building one. Have you posted or can you?
You might be interested in this
If you would like, I can send you the CAD file for it. It can be cut fairly easily within a few hours (if you do less slots it will take less time) - 5910 cut one on their Velox just recently and it came out quite nice. I personally like the screwless vises much more than the tube magic since it gives you much more flexibility in the things you can hold.
Man, all these posts about the Velox are giving me serious CNC envy. I just can’t find anywhere to put a machine that size. One day!
We got our Omio X8 up and running tonight without issue.
I have to spend the time between now and kickoff learning Mach3 and Fusion360.
On that note - does anyone in here have a few links to good Mach3 videos? I see a lot of different tabs in the UI, as well as a ton of inputs I’m sure I’ll never need to use or know what they do…
Would anyone have some time to write up a list of features that I absolutely should get to know and familiarize myself? I’d like to avoid getting overwhelmed with things in videos I don’t actually need to know how to use.
Side note - I got Fusion 360, really happy with how easy it has been to use so far, even within 10 minutes of videos I feel pretty comfortable with the interface.
Unless you need to do larger than 2 inch tube I would suggest just getting the Tube Magic. Setting up the rig we have works, but it’s kind of a pain to set up and slow to use. 1678 is getting 3 Tube Magic jigs to live on our Omio X8. Tube Magic is also much cheaper.
One thing to note that not everyone may realize is that Tube Magic can handle 1 inch tube just fine. All you need do is add a 1 inch spacer at each clamping location.
Here’s a quick overview of basically everything you’ll need to know for FRC CNC router purposes that I just whipped up: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1mvl7nj3sSYYcav7PodtQU5VyEX4QqbQxwnaZSuVMMPw/edit?usp=sharing
Please let me know if there is anything I should add.
This looks super helpful. We’ve been working to more people on our Omio so this is really useful. You might want to specify the difference between machine and part coordinates, that is useful to know. Other useful things would be how to use the tool zero touch top and an edge finder.
Overall though this is a super good introduction.
I will be sure to add the difference between machine and part coordinates.
However, I have not yet used the zero touch top/auto zero functions yet so I will not be able to provide any information on them as of now. As for how to use an edge finder, I have made a video on that (Cutting Tube on a CNC Router part 2 covers zeroing to a vise).
Maybe I missed it somewhere, do you have a link to the edge finder you are using? (or a comparable one?)
From this doc I made a while ago about our CNC: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1jwpsetvseokJTiAXayxkVt3XTyQltpmlWolSvHNQOhU/edit?usp=drivesdk
Lots of teams struggle to afford a CNC router, and You can be very successful without one. However, My team uses our Shapeoko XXL to cut aluminum, lexan, and other materials just fine. The machine is an incredible value (2000 dollars) for what it can do. It is a total workhorse that - when used appropriately - can take your team to the next level. If you can’t afford a velox, or some comparable router, the Shapeoko is a great option to look into. Just putting this out there.
Team 4926 just took the plunge using a grant to purchase this 2’ x3’ machine.
Wish we could have done this with time before the build season, but we had to to work out facilities issues before pulling the trigger!
We have big plans to share this machine with our community! Exciting!
I’m not sure it’s worth it to buy a Shapeoko for $2k when you could get a Omio x6 for just slightly more, around $2,500 after shipping if I remember correctly. The Omio will cut at least 4 times faster than the Shapeoko, especially on slots, and give a much better surface finish and require less maintenance.
Can anyone who uses Fusion 360 help me with a question:
I’m trying to generate a toolpath in F360 for cutting 3/16" holes in a gusset before cutting the profile. Using a 4mm bit in an Omio x8, what kind of operation should I be setting up? Circular, or drilling?
If circular, I’ve been trying this and get the error that my toolpath isn’t valid due to the tool (4mm) not fitting. Do I actually need a smaller bit for this or is my setup just wrong?
If I try a drilling operation, the hole isn’t the size I want (don’t want to swap out tooling) and I’m also not educated on the proper way to drill the holes without wearing out my bits quickly.
Anyone have advice on the proper operation to set up?
I was able to figure out the profile cut at least.
You’re not really going to be able to spiral very well there given how close the cutter is to the hole size. I’d recommend just swapping out the tooling - it doesn’t take that long. Depending on how many holes you’re doing, it can actually save time (as long as they’re all the same size).
Use the drill op and in the last tab in the drop down menu select bore milling and set your bore diameter. Don’t plunge your endmills, it isn’t good for them, but a 4mm will be able to bore milling a 3/16 holes.
If you’re doing a smaller amount of multiple sized holes, use the bore op but if you’re doing a lot of the same sized holes use the drill op since it has “select all same sized holes” while the bore op does not. The preview will probably show it going straight down but in the simulation it should show it helixing.
I recommend starting off at 0.035 bore pitch and 40ipm for 4mm endmills in 3/16 holes btw.
Ah perfect, I tried a separate boring operation but now I see the bore milling selection in the last tab of the drilling op!
All of the this. Buying machines is one of those things where a little more money can get you a LOT more machine.
Adding on to this, make sure you select “Select same hole diameter” in the Geometry tab when you select your holes. Saves a TON of time.
I’ve bored 0.136" holes with an 1/8" endmill hundreds of times. I know people that plunge a 4mm to make 0.159" 10-32 tap holes. It works fine as long as you feed slowly or helix down.