Yesterday I posted a thread about our compressor reaching face-melting temperatures because it’s near-constantly running. That is, it reaches the set PSI, air leaks out and it kicks back up again within seconds.
I did what bjtheone said to do to in the other thread. I simplified the circuit on a test bench (we had to take the system off the robot today anyway), and recorded the results of a series of steps which I’ll list below.
First the simplified circuit:
Dig deep and fight the urge to critique the cable management on this hastily-assembled test bench, please.
bjtheone says to:
- power up the system, gauges read 0 PSI, compressor comes on
- pressure gauge up stream of the regulator (between it and the compressor) should start to rise
- pressure should climb to whatever you have the pressure switch set to (typically 120 psi)
The pressure climbs to 115
- compressor will turn off, pressure should hold steady
Compressor kicks off, but does not hold steady
- pressure gauge on the regulator will read something. Adjust the regulator, via rotating the ribbed knob (usually have to pull the knob up, or push it in). Pressure should change as you rotate the knob. Set the pressure to whatever working pressure you want. Typically 60 PSI.
That worked great, it was easy to set that one to 60 PSI.
- at that point you should have the high pressure gauge reading 120 PSI, and the low pressure gauge reading 60 (or whatever you chose).
High pressure reads to 115 and the compressor kicks off
- system should stay like that, without the compressor running, until you use some air, by using your pneumatics
The pressure drops within seconds, unprovoked by actuating the cylinder.
- once the pressure drops, the compressor should run to bring the pressure back up
It does that, but for no good reason.
On to the calibration of the emergency release valve. I’m following it to the letter (as far as I can tell), but I cannot get it to stop hissing as I turn it.
What do y’all think?