Controller System Testing

What would be a good design for testing the Robot Controller and Operator Interface with some of the parts while using the Default Program Code? I would appreciate it if you could be specific so that I would know just what it is that I’m doing.


:frowning: :frowning: sniff nobody likes me…



The easiest way would be to wire a speed controller to PWM1. Hook any of the larger motors up to the output of this controller. Then plug in a joystick to port 1 on the operator interface. The y-axis will control the motor in the default code. Be sure you follow wiring guidelines as stated in the manual. If you are just testing, you can bypass the 60A circuit breaker for now. Wire the battery to the fuse block. Attach the robot controller and speed controller to the fuse block. Make sure the polarity is right, or you might see some magic smoke.

If you have any questions, just reply to this message.

In my opinion, you need to have some sort of rolling stock to get your foot in the water.

Making a quickie chassis gives you a lot of good things. It gives your drives something to practice driving – even if the real deal will be different. It gives you some practical experience with the forces involved in a drive system (how much damage tension in the chain can cause, how hard it is to hold those nasty drill cases, etc.). It gives your wiring folks practice writing things up (and perhaps it will make them see the sense of spending time making wiring neat, orderly and well documented). Finally, it helps you really understand where Tab A fits into Slot B, i.e. how the Innovation First stuff all goes together.

Bottom line: Build a chassis. NOW.

Joe J.

One thing to make sure of: don’t plug the battery into the motor end of a spike. White smoke will result (and your mentors will get pretty mad at you).

This may not be a problem anymore, but if you have some of the older spikes (red i think. or was it blue?) make sure not to hook the power up backwards.
If memory serves (many times it doesn’t), the spikes are not polarity protected as the victors are.


May i just suggest that you use the breaker for a quick power kill… someone created a dead short buy connecting a wire wrong and we melted the insulation off our wires today :frowning:
Team 804

the very first thing the control system team does when we get the kit every year is grag out all of the electrical stuff and mount it on a piece of plexiglass and then wire everything up.

this setup holds everything in position so we don’t have to worry about the componenets shifting around and causing shorts and also allows us to test every component before putting it on our robot.

I’ll have pictures soon.