**Does your team, you, or someone you know own a cordless DeWalt vacuum? **
If so, you can help us out!
For teams looking to purchase a battery powered vacuum, we highly recommend this model. It is by far the most popular tool borrowed from our pit (just don’t use it above 120V…)
A few years ago at an off-season event in China, our vacuum was accidentally connected to the 220V mains power… it proceeded to cry in pain, emit a cloud of smoke, and cease corded functionality. Luckily it still works with just a battery, but the time has come to fix it properly.
How you can help us:
All you need to do is open up your vacuum (see instructions below) and identify the component circled below in red. Yours will look slightly different since half of ours was obliterated - it should have text printed on one side.
Unplug your vacuum from mains power and/or remove the battery
Make sure your vacuum really truly isn’t connected to mains power or a battery
Remove the vacuum hose and waste bin; set these aside
Remove the 6 screws circled in green below (don’t loose these)
Pull the black panel away from the yellow outer shell (make sure the hose isn’t connected)
Locate the round blue component, labeled RV201, near the edge of the control board (circled in red)
Reply to this post with an image and/or description of the text on the blue component.
Ive seen fried cameras, fried rio’s, and even a fried heat gun, but i dont think ive seen someone ask to fix a fried vacuum.
[Strike] Quick google search finds me the model number of the Vacuum to beDCV580[/strike] (i cant read) and i found a PDF breakdown of the said vacuum and a list of parts that can be ordered directly from DeWalt, which includes the PCB. Might be your best bet.
That really looks like a MOV to me. Though if it was it would probably be in parallel with the AC input and since it’s just a filter and transient clamp it would probably continue to work without it meaning there’s a dead component further down the line. Are you able to trace the circuit out at all and test the fuse to make sure it’s not blown?
I also notice the Guaranteed Repair Cost of $69.99, which is less than the cost of the board ($86.46). I didn’t see any fine print that would prevent you from getting even this issue fixed that way, if you’ve got a DeWalt center near you.
Your best bet is to use the repair service that Billfred suggested. You may also want to consider just buying a new one for about $105 ~ $115 and using this one only with the battery.
If you are feeling adventurous, you can try repairing it yourself.
As Marcus pointed out, the blue component is most likely an MOV used to clamp the input voltage. There is a switching power supply that charges the battery and/or runs the vacuum. It is possible that some components in the power supply are damaged. It would be difficult for someone to help you repair that by corresponding with you over the internet. Look on the outside of your vacuum. If it says it is rated at up to a maximum of 220 ~ 240 Vac, it is likely that the power supply was damaged.
If your are willing to spend a few dollars and take a chance, you could try replacing the MOV and the input fuse. The fuse is the cylindrical component with the white ceramic body and metal end caps just to the left and behind the MOV in the second photo. If you trace the circuit, you should find that the fuse is between the AC input and the MOV. In an over-voltage condition, the MOV is meant to clamp the voltage applied to the circuit. This would cause large currents to flow, blowing the fuse open and disconnecting the circuit from the input. I would expect that both the MOV and the fuse are open circuit when checked with a DVM set to Ohms. If the MOV appears shorted, remove it and check across where the MOV was connected. If it is still shorted, the power supply circuitry is severely damaged and it will be difficult for you to repair.
The fuse should have a current rating printed or embossed on it, say 3 A or something like that. It is most likely a slow-blow type. Replacements can be found at DigiKey, Mouser and Newark. If the other side of the MOV has some markings on it, they may be used to find a replacement. Otherwise, go to this link and select one with the larges “Package/Case” and highest “Current-Surge” and “Energy” that will physically fit on the circuit board.
Come on Mikal, you know us - we always strive to be different
Wow! I didn’t even notice the ‘guaranteed repair’ option when I looked at the parts list earlier. Definitely going to remember that for future needs. My local repair center quoted only $58 for a brand new control board, but that’s still much higher than we were hoping to pay
Yes, I am able to. And would you look at that, it is blown. I never thought to check the fuse, I just assumed the charred, half-existent MOV was the only thing that blew out.
I removed both the fuse and the MOV, and it looks like the rest of the power supply is still okay.
The fuse seems to be a CONQUER PTU 004, which aligns well with this fuse from Digi-Key. Judging by the remaining few letters on the side of the MOV and its size, it looks like this MOV is a suitable replacement. I ordered some of each, so we’ll see what happens once they’re replaced.