Design Review | Intake Subsystem

Hello guys I am currently working on CADing a full robot by myself for practice and I have made my first subsystem being the intake. Just wondering if anyone could review my design and feedback would be appreciated! This upcoming season will be my 2nd so I have a lot to learn about FRC.

Link: Onshape

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Cool design!
Do you have robot(s) you are basing this off?
Also, I would recommend toeing down those lightens. They are a little over the top.

Thank you so much! I used 2910 as an inspiration a little bit and I used the same idea of hollow rollers from 6328 on my design. Something I made different about my design from a lot of other robots is the bottom roller. I saw on a lot of other bots the bottom roller axis was near the same level as the robots bellypan or tubes, but for my robot I made the bottom intake roller much much closer. I havent noticed any problem with doing this but just wanted to point it out, other than the roller bending and touching the floor.

Will do on the lightens. Is the thickness of the ribs good enough?

What’s going on here?

Do you need to shift all 4 frame rails down or just the front one?

I worry a bit about durability of the front frame, my impression was that most teams that just ran a single 2x1 in front with tube connector blocks had it bend in on them.

It may be helpful flip the motors around to make the routing of wires easier so the leads face the robot instead of facing the note.

There seems to be no compression between the first two roles. It might be good to have some compression so that the note doesn’t jam. I think 3mm compression will be enough.

The front top roller seems to protrude a little out of the chassis. Even if it passes the inspection, when you hit the wall etc., the intake will take the shock instead of the chassis.

The part designed for object centering is too horizontal and too far forward. The note should first contact the roller and then the averaging part. When the object touches the robot for the first time from the edges of the intake, the robot may push the note because the upper rollers do not touch the note.

I don’t know the rest of the robot, but it might be useful to increase the distance I have shown above. Reducing the amount of side compression will help both to center the object less and to operate the system with lower torque. You may use MK4 instead of MK4i to get this gap.

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Plan to just have this bolted on the underside of the tube. The reason its inside of the tube was because I am using an imported SDS MK4i Swerve Module so it goes inside of the tub when I add the spacers.

Do you have a reference of a team that uses a better drivebase that I can look at?

Thank you for noting these problems about the rollers! I will take note of that.

Do you know what is the main difference between the 2 swerve modules? Also will they work with Kraken motors?


Your front bumper is only supported on the edges and will be taken out if impacted head-on. Ideally, this should be supported from the center somehow to significantly reduce the bending moments.


A bunch of small pockets are generally inefficient both machine-time wise and weight-wise. You should cut the outer dimensions of plates before pocketing, as that will save you significant amounts of weight (especially near the boxtubes) and generally, fewer larger pockets are better than a bunch of tiny pockets. Struts connecting to the center of struts doesn’t actually add any strength because that just loads one of the struts in bending, which can’t take much strength.

I would also consider dropping down to a single intake motor rather than 2. A pair of gears will give you the same reversion action and you generally don’t need 800W to intake stuff.

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Change the bumper rail from a 1x2 to a 2x2. (or at least rotate the 1x2 90 degrees so that the long side is horizontal rather than vertical.) You’ll thank me when the corner of another robot t-bones you at full speed.

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Or two 2x1’s stacked (with 2" dimension horizontal and 1" vertical) to make a 2x2 which should be even stronger.

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To make sure your intake roller will not drag on the floor, consider the amount of compression and potential wrinkles in the carpet itself, the compression of the treads, and the amount that the treads could wear over time before being replaced. As it is currently designed, I would not expect the drivebase to move freely. We (2910) ran our treads pretty thin during a long practice session at one point, and ended up burning out an intake motor because our bottom roller was dragging on the floor. And the lowest point of our roller was nearly 1/2" higher than yours is.

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Our team had a similar experience but instead of us burning out a motor our intake roller snapped off.

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Got it I had worried about something like this happening but I had no idea how much tolerance I should have added to avoid this problem

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thank you guys for reviewing my design, it is extremely helpful and I am learning so much I really appreciate it!

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We used 1.375 bane bot wheels with 0.25 of clearance and it worked well for us. We did have to add an extra 1/8th to the aluminum plates on the side because they got bent at our first comp from hitting the floor or the plate near the stage.


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