keep an inventory of tools obtained - listed in categories/location.
Keep this current/updated.
make and keep a wish list of tools/equipment wanted/needed. This is handy for the parent that feels generous, the potential sponsor that walks up to a fundraiser or community outreach event, the aunt or uncle who have been hearing about this robotics team and would like to contribute something. It is also helpful for the team booster club to have handy when working on the budget. Purchasing/maintaining tools/equipment should be included in the budget both short term and long term.
Create a position for a tool manager on the team. This person is responsible for making sure the tools get put back where they belong and for travel preparation/competition. This is the go-to tool person when something is needed. During competition, we’ve learned that the tool manager can fill another position such as safety captain as well - being useful and efficient.
I’m not surprised you needed to use solder for that, since the TTL converter board is not designed to be attached to the camera.
The sensors in the Kit of Parts for the past couple of years (accelerometers, gear tooth sensors, etc.) have no connectors, just plated-through holes on the printed circuit board. Soldering is required to attach wires to them. Almost every potentiometer one might want to use for position feedback has terminals that wires must be soldered to.
Building the on-board backup battery charger circuit also needs soldering skills.
I’m kinda surprised that no one has mentioned this: A VEX kit.
Learning to program on a 130+ pound robot can get really interesting. The VEX platform allows students to make mistakes while learning and not endanger people or property.
Or anything else with a great deal of caffeine. Coffee, tea, a random game of dodgeball, a quiet ice cube down the back of their shirt…
Safety glasses! Have some sort of organization system for them, too. I built a temporary polycarb box from some random scrap we had lying around. Bent it with a welding torch, a wood-bending thing in the woodshop and a friend. A large, sturdy metal ruler with a few more friends also works. Distinctive, simple. It worked quite well, but now the safety glasses reside in a shelf on our Toolbox. The toolbox has castors (we put them on) and has a locking box in one of the shelves.
In my experience, having a set place for safety glasses greatly increases the likelihood that people will seek it out and put them on. In my days on 1293, it was a bin right by the storage room door; in their new digs, it’s a five-gallon bucket spray-painted orange. On 1618, it’s a shoebox with SAFETY GLASSES written on it in large letters. It’s a little ugly, and it’s a little beat up after the run to Brunswick Eruption, but even the 2458 kids picked up on it right out of the gate.
I’m also pushing for a Safety Glasses Jar in the vein of the classic swear jar, as a punishment to students who go back into our work area without glasses on. A quarter for each time they’re caught wearing forehead protectors will not only teach them right fast to get their glasses on before going into the shop area, but also help offset the cost of the team’s Goldfish addiction. Two birds, one stone.
(Don’t get me wrong, I’m not big on swearing…but I think protecting their eyesight is more important.)
I wouldn’t really call it a tool, but a tether is definitely something that is good to have on hand. With that a disable box is very vital also(person with a fast finger would be good). It’s no good having a robot if you can’t control it in the pits or practice.:ahh:
In theory the list could go on and on but for a good tool source with low prices I would got to Harbor Freight. Thwy have just about ever tool you could want and they have coupons like 3 times a month.
In the electrical world it is best when you have the right tool for the job. Every team should consider an automatic stripper that allows for stripping #10 or smaller wire without cutting the strands.
Mcmaster 7292K42 $24.99
Automatic ratcheting crimpers are also an easy way to crimp solderless connectors…
McMaster 69555K62 $46.61 but worth it. Other manufacturers have similar tools withour replacment dies for far less.
Large diameter wire cutters like 3563A73 $22.38 are useful for cutting #10 and #6 but are not must have tools.
If you are going to use the smaller Power Pole line of connectors, the crimp tool for those is a must have. We crimp and solder all connection just to be sure.
Several different soldering irons are then needed. 25 watt for most jobs and 50 watt with larger tips for soldering the larger wires. No team should be without heat shrink tubing so a heat gun is also a must have item.
Please make sure you have at least one set of flush cutting wire cutters to insure that the cutoff ends of wire ties do not have a sharp end that can cut and scratch.
Great advice Al. For those of you not wanting to spend the big bucks at McMaster-Carr then once again Harbor Freight to the rescue:
Similar Automatic Wire Stripper$5.99 but I have bought them on sale for as little as $2.99. Note that it doesn’t strip the smaller guage wires like 22, 24. We prefer this type for small gauge wire which you can get on sale for $.99 just about all the time. Get several and set them up for each of the small gauges (22, 24, etc.) and lable them as such.
We have all of the above tools from Harbor Freight and they work great!
As for the small Anderson Powerpole crimpers we have the one from West Mountain Radio but Powerwerx sells the same thing (I think) for a few dollars less. You can get replacement jaws for them at West Mountain Radio for all types of connectors. Our experiance with the West Mountain Radio crimper for the smaller Anderson Powerpoles has been mixed. It works perfectly on the 15A and 30A but the 45A seem to jam up everytime especially with 10 GA wire. Does anyone else have this problem? Any secret to making it work properly?
As for the large Anderson Powerpoles like we use on the battery connectors we haven’t found a suitable cheap crimp/swag tool so we usually solder the wire in with a porpane torch. How do other teams tackle this issue?
I will second that. Additionally, have a checklist ready for that toolbox, so you know what should be in there before departing for a demo or competition. There is no feeling quite like shearing a couple of rivets on your tower to find out that your riveter is 680 miles away.
To that end, get a good printer. You will be printing plenty of things over the season. (Bonus points if it is a printer you can bring with you to competition, but bring extra ink and paper; teams will invariably ask if you can print off a few things for them.)
I think you’re referring to two separate items as one.
Shrink wrap is like saran wrap and as you said, you can use it to wrap your crate.
Heat Shrink is plastic tubing that comes in various diameters and colors that you generally put over soldered connections, where you join two wires together,etc. Basically anywhere where you don’t want uninsulated wires.
Hammer
Even bigger hammer
Saws-all with extra blades
Grinder with extra wheels
Pry bar
Screw drivers (aka small pry bars)
Vice grips
Channel locks
1/4" to 3/8" drive socket sets
Open/closed end wrench set
Adjustable wrenchs
T handle allen wrench set
Cordless drill and bits (extra batteries)
A dozen rolls of duct tape
Lots of zip-ties
Goodie or BC powders
Everyone has pretty much covered what you will need but it is important to spend the money and make sure that certain tools you get are of good quality.
Make sure you don’t skimp on…
Vice grips- you will do things with these that they were never meant to do and they will only survive if you have good ones
Crimpers and wire strippers- good ones are just easier to work with because cheap ones will just give you trouble.
Rotary tool- get a Dremel brand or something just as good because again, you will use it constantly and good ones last longer and are easier to deal with.
I absolutely love you guys as well as this forum. All of the replies so far have helped us so much. On behalf of team 2554 (The WarHawks) I would like to thank you very much. Good luck during build season. Hopefully once our rookie year is over we will be able to help continue the awesome service that these forums provide.
