Helping our Newest Sponsor

IDK what the proper protocol on this is but our latest sponsor - Anycubic - asked us to pass the message along that they are having a sale and yes we benefit for us

I have no problem passing it on - we like their printers - they are serving us well and I/we consider them to be pretty much best bang for the buck in that price class and yes before anyone says it a markforged X3 is better but then that is a completely different price category.

So here it goes

If you buy an Anycubic I3 Mega S or an Anycubic CHIRON on Amazon.com within the time period of 10/9 to 10/22 then…

Send an email with the code FRC1989 and a copy of your invoice/order from Amazon to singor@anycubic.com and you should get a discount

$40 and then 30% on the I3 Mega 2 which brings the price of that printer to 189.99
25% on the CHIRON which brings the price of that printer down to 375

Now I hope I did that correct as usually I am more adapt at using inventor and a slicer. And yeah when you get it leave a review as to your experiences. I am a strong believer in reviews to guide other future potential buyers trying to make up their minds.

Both printers are sold as kits so some assembly required and if you are handy and can follow instructions you should be able to put it together in about 30-60 min. Printers work well for those who know what they are doing and there is a FB group to steer you into the proper direction if you have questions. Now if you are not mechanically inclined, have never printed before then those printers probably are not for you. They both are doing a good job out of the box and can be customized to be made more suitable to your needs. The CHIRON might be a better choice for FRC teams due to the big print volume.

Oh yes I forgot to mention. 1 printer per email address and rebate and rebates are being handled via Paypal so you will need a paypal account

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Any discount on a Photon?

Not right now - Only the Mega S and the CHIRON.

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I looked into getting an i3 Mega S from your sponsor, but the discount only applies if you order through Amazon. And the international shipping and taxes from Amazon would end up costing more than the printer itself. I ended up ordering through Anycubic’s website which has free shipping and no (or low) taxes, but doesn’t offer your discount.

How did you get free international shipping? I’m looking on the i3 Mega’s price (which is on sale right now) and it says that the shipping to Israel will cost ~130$

Is it the Mega S or the Mega I3?

I ordered two weeks ago and their website gave free shipping. I just checked again and I do see a $130 shipping fee. You might try reaching out to them by email. They were very responsive and helpful over when I originally messed up my order and had to change it.

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On the shipping issue I can only speak about the US.

We ordered the printers from Amazon.com there is no shipping on Amazon.com But the Chiron for example is 500. Its cheaper at the anycubic website but there is shipping and maybe some duty and fees getting it through customs. hence we ordered from Amazon. Now I initiated some contact with Anycubic basically saying good printer - put a Capricorn tube on it and make the drag chain 2 links longer and include a cable holder which we printed and you got a real great printer and look here is what we do and do you want to become a sponsor. So we got a rebate and so I said “what about the other FRC teams” so they said we are going to do a promo (and we also got some parts along the way) so could you tell the people order from Amazon - no shipping -no customs then send us the email with proof they got the printer (amazon order number) and we will give them a rebate via paypal. If a lot do that we send you more parts maybe a printer or 2 for you to use. See where this goes. So here we are. The printers we have have been going 24/7 and so far no issues. There are some improvements we will make like on at least one printer we are going to go full metal hotend (volcano with copper block etc) and a good enclosure at some point to print PC and other higher temp materials. And probably make the other direct drive to be opitimized for flexibles.

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Mega S the one for 299.99 on amazon

See below - Ordered from Amazon and then got the rebate

Are you in the US? There was no shipping on Amazon unless you want it really quickly.

No, Israel (and so is @jonathano) . If I were in the US I would definitely order from Amazon, but unfortunately they aren’t great for shipping here. I’ve been hearing rumors for the past few years about them expanding operations here, but it’s yet to come to fruition.

Sorry to hear that. Send singor and email and maybe they have something set up for Israel. They seem to be hungry.

I emailed him when I was placing the order. He said that he can only give the discount when ordering through Amazon, and he has no control over the shipping and taxes Amazon charges. And I placed my order two weeks ago now, so even if something did open up I probably can’t cancel it. Sorry I wasn’t able to help you guys out.

No problem - hope you get the printer soon and join the FB group and if you have questions just ask.

@mpirringer what’s the stock max temp for nozzle and bed on the Chiron? Can the stock printer do polycarb or nylon?

Thanks Martin very much, his so professional and reliable that we all trust him, that’s why we ask him to help us to share the news of discounts on our products. We pursue to offer people with well-design and functional 3d printer, help people to printer their ideas and enjoy fun.

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The stock version is limited at 260C in Marlin as it does not come with a full metal hotend so ABS, HIPS PETG, PLA sb fine. I personally had my doubts as to if it is wise to go above 240 with the stock PTFE so first and only thing so far we replaced before we did the first print was the PTFE tube with a high temp capricorn one that is rated to about 300C. Now the stock one might be quite capable but I am rather safe than sorry.

Now to go above 260 I suggest to get an all metal hotend. I got a volcano sitting on my desk here that will go on it and then don’t forget to change the max temp in Marlin to whatever version of Volcano you put on. If you go with the stock thermistor you will be limited to 280 otherwise you do damage to the thermistor if you want to go above that then you better get the copper block version, and a PT100 and run it sock less as the stock silicon socks that come from E3D start to deteriorate at 300 and the aluminum starts to get soft at around 330. That then also requires copper rather than brass nozzles and you can forget the hardened steel one at about that temperature as it will stop being hardened rather quickly. Now true PC likes to be printed between 320 and 340 There are alloys around that will print at lower temps mixes of PC with other materials but then its not true PC. Also PC likes to warp. So a heated chamber is a must unless the parts are small. Now we will print PC at some point - that is the intent but there will be some changes necessary to do that and I mean true PC. I know there are ABS and PLA-PC combos out there that will print at about 260-280. If things go the way we want we will have a CHIRON sooner or later wit a print chamber at about 80C and a hotend being able to go to close to 400. IOW word close to a funmat HT printer. But not for the 375 out of the box will probably take a couple 100 more and some engineering to get there but way shy of spending the 6-7k minimum for a smaller printer with that capability. Also when getting into that range of materials then you get into air quality issues - hence the enclosure will have to have a good air filter etc.

Now Nylon can be successfully printed under 280 in most cases. Bridge at about 250-260 so you might be able to do that on the stock one if you slow it down a bit check this
https://grabcad.com/tutorials/dialing-in-a-filament-and-specifying-the-max-volumetric-e-xtrusion-value
as to dial in speed. Now Taulman 910 or Hobbyking CX12 will need about 260-280 to print well So if you intend to do those Nylons get an all metal hotend for it. Now the Volcano from E3D will fit and there are mounts you can print for it on thingyverse with a choice of fan ducts. I don’t know what your print experience is if you are new I probably would get my feet wet with PLA then HIPS and PETG before tackling Nylon and as I stated before the Higher temps like PC and maybe PEEK etc will require extensive mods.

I like this deal. I believe our team is going to go for one. We will be printing allot next season and another printer to spread the load will be worth it at these prices. The big thing is it has a E3d clone out of the box. I think we are going with the big one because big is better right? I hope other teams that are look at getting into printing or adding a printer take a hard look at these.
We will be printing over 240C so making sure the heat break is all metal. If not that gets replaced. As mentioned the bowden tubing while sufficient, gets upgrade to Capricorn tubing. Definitely loose the thermistor and go with a RTD. Like this
https://smile.amazon.com/PT100-Total-Upgrade-Kit-V6-KIT-PT100/dp/B07D5JXDBQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=E3D+PT100&qid=1570761820&sr=8-3
Of course the heater block will need to be replaced with one that takes a cartridge type sensor. Standard or could go with a volcano block. The large one begs for a volcano. Thanks for this.

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I noticed that Marlin does not have a config file for the Chiron and Anycubic only provides a Hex file. Do you you have a Chiron Marlin config or do we have to go thru and re do everything?