Where does one find PWM leads with the proper, UNSHROUDED connector that can plug into the new EduBot controller? We are looking for 3 inch leads with unshrouded pins.
All the hobby stores in town and on the internet (Tower, Horizon, Lobby, etc.) only sell the wires with shrouds around the pins. The shrouds keep you from plugging into the Edubot!
Only Innovation FIRST seems to have these leads, but we don’t want to put six 24 inch-long leads on the Edubot just to connect to the receiver!
If money was not a problem, we would buy micro receivers which have the PWM pins prodruding past the receiver housing. That way we could plug the receiver directly into the EduBot controller.
But money is tight… and we are all VERY DISSAPPOINTED in FIRST that they required us to go out and buy an expensive R/C radio without warning! The best deal we have found is for the Tower Hobbies 6 channel FM kit without servos for $99. But we still need the leads!
Now only a bit of the Edubot (software) is like the real robot.
If you’re not a rookie team you can hook up last year’s EDU to this year’s EDU and use the IFI OI. More info is at http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/papers.php?s=&action=single&paperid=245
The shrouds actually come off fairly easily. The ones I’ve seen are typically just held on by friction (and maybe some reall light glue). So you can just pull the shroud right off.(Of if that fails, you can very easily cut the shroud).
[EDIT] Or look here: http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22798
[/EDIT]
On a side note: Why do you say “Now only a bit of the Edubot (software) is like the real robot.”
You should be able to bascially copy your UserRoutines.c from one to the other with only a few minor changes (such as there being not PWM_inXX on the full size)… Beyond that the values you get from the Full Size OI Joysticks should be the same as the ones from the RC controller (though the RC controller may have a more limited range, YMMV).
If you need clarification on what I just said, feel free to ask…
I belive that the lead type used by IFI is hitec/JR style connectors
from tower hobbies you would need to look for an alerion extension it is the lead that you would need.
In a pinch you can use 0.1" breakaway headers. Cut the connector off, solder and shrink wrap the leads to the pins.
Found a FIX! :yikes:
Look at the attached jpeg for a pictorial view. I purchased Futaba J-type extensions from Tower Hobbies (the Hobbico brand is cheaper). These have the shroud around the pins molded into the connector.
[Older extensions have a box-like second piece that’s snapped over the connector with pins. You can just pull the box off with two pairs of pliers–one to hold the connector and one to grab the shroud.]
First, carefully remove the wires by prying up the black tab with a small regular screwdriver. If you pull on the wire while you lift the tab, the wire will release more easily. Cut off the extension piece of the shroud using a suitable tool. I used a paper cutter shear. Then simply plug the wires back in and you are done! I got great results!!!
One of the biggest problems with IFI stuff are those evil unshrouded pin headers from which the connectors fall out. I would have though IFI woulf have fixed this, as historically the PWM connectors have been liek the #1 cause of electrical probs. I like the solution above. I would have just cur the shroud off.
Innovation First has 6" PWM cables made to link the EDU RC to an R/C Receiver. They do not have shrouds.
http://www.innovationfirst.com/FIRSTRobotics/edu-electrical.htm