Trying to shave every bit of weight possible, and wondering if we can legally do this. The DB-37 cable by itself is 0.5 lbs!
See attached…
I have no idea if it is legal or not, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend it. You can easily damage the d-sub connectors that way. An early DSC concept was similarly cantilevered, but it was quickly dismissed for many reasons.
Why don’t you just use a ribbon cable instead of the provided one?
I was actually planning to support it with a strap of metal. The ribbon cable is a great idea though, so I will investigate that.
Cheers,
-Neil.
can anyone reccomend a place to get 37pin male to female ribbon cable?
thanks,
Samir
6’ Multicolor:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A7MFB-3706M-ND
6’ Gray:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A7MFB-3706G-ND
These are not listed in stock because they have to assemble the cable for you, but it takes very little time for them to complete and ship, from past experience with 15-pin cables.
I’m sure you could also order the consituent components (see the product description details) on Digikey if you wanted to make a shorter custom cable.
just remember that the cRio is grounded to its casing, so any metal around it is probably not a good idea.
That Sigital Sidecar is currently overhanging Slot 1 where the required 9201 Analog Module with Analog Breakout and Battery Monitoring jumper must be installed per <R64>.
wow is this a joke? You want to shave weight from the cable?
I really really dont recommend doing what you posted in the picture… Maybe try getting a lighter cable if you are that concerned from the weight.
We saved 5 or 6 ounces by using a 37-pin ribbon cable. Not to mention the nicer-looking connection.
I missed that R64 – we are not using that module or it’s breakout. So we have to have it on there anyway??? Or does the rule imply that if we’re using it, then it must be in that slot?
Either way, we could’ve shuffled the other modules so the digital sidecar clears.
I’m looking at the DB37 w/ribbon connector option now. Yes, every bit of weight savings helps, because we don’t want to comprimise the design.
Cheers,
-Neil.
The orange box after <R64> makes it clear that it’s required for every robot (and even explains why it’s required).
Okay, I’ll check the docs when I get back tonight. Thanks!
Yes, you must have the analog module in slot 1 with a 12-volt supply connected from a 20 amp breaker on the power distritution and the analog breakout’s jumper set to read battery voltage.
No, you can not shuffle modules. They must be in the defined slots. Mandatory analog in slot 1 (with battery monitor jumper) and digital in slot 4 (with attached sidecar connected to Robot Signal Light). Optional analog in slot 2, digital in slot 6, and pneumatic in slot 8.
Okay thanks. I’m going to leave the connection changes to the controls sub-team folks. I’m just trying to re-do the mount layout and board today for weight savings.
the scale doesn’t care where you lose the pounds, and the wiring of a robot certainly holds a lot of weight. We lost 6 pounds when we re-imagined our electrical board.
Switching to the 37 pin ribbon able will save weight, along with changing the material you are mounting your electronics to. 1/4" hardwood plywood works great and weighs next to nothing. It’s less than lexan and very strong.
One of my problems with ordering from places like Digi-Key is too many choices that I can’t tell the difference between. For example, is the above cable any different/better than this one for $9 cheaper?
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?pname&site=us;lang=en&wt.mc_id=Dxn_US_T091_Catlink;name=C7MFG-3706G-ND
6’ is a bit longer than we need. If we wanted to make our own to a custom length, can anyone recommend specific connectors and ribbon cable?
Thanks.
Well, it’s done. We lost 10lbs 2oz with the mods, and only 2 unused cRio modules and 1 digital sidecar were dropped. We’ll lose a bit more by changing that DB37 cable. I’ll have our controls guys re-check it tomorrow for legality, etc.
Now if only I could lose 10 lbs in 8 hrs too… :eek:
Cheers,
-Neil.
It is on much thinner lexan than before, but with a thin strip of aluminum angle under it for support. It’s very solid now. Wood would not have been a good option for my mods, because I used captive studs to mount the Jaguars under other components.
Wireless adapter not shown because that will be mounted elsewhere, but it was included in the final weighing. One spike was also included in the final weighing, but it will probably be deleted, as we will most probably eliminate the compressor and use 4 accumulators instead.
Cheers,
-Neil.
http://haze1889.org/images/Diet-CB-01-Prev.jpg
i don’t know if this is allowed but i wouldn’t recommend it. if there is a shift in the chassis from the violent ramming in this years game it could damage the pins which will be hard to fix.