Mecanum wheels - bearings?

Looking at the 8" Mecanum wheels that AndyMark sells, it appears the side plates on the wheels have a 1.125" hole cut out to install bearings. My quick question is: when we press the bearings in there, what’s to stop them from being pressed in too far and ending up inside the wheel? As I recall, the KOP wheels have a small lip on the inside to prevent the bearings from going in too far.

Am I over-thinking this? We’ve never worked with Mecanum wheels, and I’m a little nervous trying to make sure we have all of our ducks in order before we order them.

Depending on your axle size. you can either go with:

They are flanged bearings. You then mount your sprocket/gearbox against on the side with the flange to hold them in.

Thanks Jimmy!

Chief Delphi and AndyMark are always one step ahead! Excellent!

Funny side note: my cousin Erin graduated from Lakota East in… let me say 1995 or so. At the time, they lived in West Chester.

Stop by 2656 and see if the Mecanum wheels worked out when you’re in Pittsburgh!

Not a problem.

Small world! If your cousin is local, they can stop in anytime.

I’ll have to remember to do that. Our pits are always open to guests as well.

The first one you linked to won’t work, the OD is not the correct size. The FR6ZZ is a 0.875OD.

James- does this mean that these Mecanum’s will require a 1/2" axle? If so, I guess we can just bore the bolt holes out

Here is the correct link.

I saw those yesterday. They lead back to my original question, of whether or not they will “fall in” inside the wheel without a flange/edge. ie: what’s to stop us from pushing them in too far?

you could cut up some spacers for the inside to stop them from going to far. thats what im going to work on today so we dont need to order more bearings.

We cut out the hubs to last years wheels and placed them inside the Mech wheels (we did need a small spacer) and used the kit bearings. We saved $$$$.

Bearings from Andymark are $5 each, which is cheaper than other places.

The time and effort hours it saves, that can be put towards kicking, elevating, or suspending are priceless. My opinion.

Third time’s a charm… here’s a 3/8" ID, 1-1/8" OD, with a flange:

(FYI, these were linked from the same page where you’d buy the wheels:

Hmm, those look new. I noticed them on the AM website this morning.

Two years back, the 1/2" bearing was what we were forced to use and we had to bore out the (IFI) chassis to do so.

What you might consider is using hubs and having a live axle directly off the gearbox.

Good idea. I’ll have to remember that.

Since Mech wheels need 4 transmissions, we planned on using the AndyMark Hubs and direct drive to save the weight of the chain.

That will leave you 6 to 7 inches between the motors. Real tight for a kicker. We did it, it is more complex than it looks. Installing bearings on the mechs with a sprocket is a simple operation.

Of course, now that I finally have all the information we need to order the Mecanum’s and get them working (mechanically), they’re now sold out. AndyMark is saying February 3, which means we won’t be able to get them here until say, February 8 or so. That leaves us a a mere 2 weeks to get them built, mounted, and programmed. And then teach kids how to drive with them…

I don’t know what happened on their end, but I’m going to talk to the team about a redesign. I don’t feel that’s quite enough time. :frowning:

If you want to keep your students buisy you could build some mechs out of ruber stoppers.