MK2 swerve drive wheel wear

After about 4 days of drive practice, about 6 hours total, our swerve drive wheel look like this

Is this an abnormal amount of wear?

Granted, our driver seems to only have 2 modes of driving, full throttle or all the batteries are still charging. Just wondering if others using the MK2 are seeing similar wear.

I do think our programming is fine and tuning seem to result in a degree of error while driving. Controlability is really good. We do not have any ramp rate. Driving is in velocity following so the instant driver lets go of stick if stops.


Looks like what?

Yes, I think 2910 went thru around 100 from last year.

That is why we do not use those wheels. We use Andymark high grip. Ramp rate will help smooth things out. Check steering sensor. With mods Anymark wheels can fit.

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White HiGrips do seem to last much longer. Alternatively, if you want something grippier, you can use treaded wheels; you only need to undo one bolt to remove the wheel on the MK2, so changing tread is easy.

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Although I have never used the MK2 swerve, the VersaWheel does tend to wear quickly. In tanks we seem to get maybe 2-3 hours out of them. Very grippy but they do wear quickly. Make sure to have spares on hand at our tournaments, and work it into your maintenance schedule. Looks like the wheels are reasonably easy to swap on the MK2.

We had similar results using these wheels with swerve last year. We changed the for each competition.

SDS does sell aluminum wheels (made for blue Nitrile tread) made especially for the MK2 modules.


At IRI, 2910 was giving away their wheels because they were wearing through so many. Still have it around here somewhere…


The main reason for the SDS billet wheel was the desire to have a wheel that was compatible with the MK2 module with longer lasting tread.

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You shouldn’t recommend vex wheels at all. We had the same results. It was a waste of money to buy vex wheels for your modules.

We are seeing the same thing. But the billet wheels are so hard to thread. What’s the trick? Drill a hole when not on wheel? What size drill bit? Do we line up the 4 edge bolts and then try the middle four? Should we loctite any of the screws?

That’s why we custom made our wheels for our swerve modules- we like this style of treading way more than screws/rivets and it also allowed us to customize the size/shape of the wheel and integrate the gear into the wheel itself.
While I don’t expect SDS to make an identical wheel(it was donated to us by a factory that spent over 12 hours on a 5 axis CNC mill to make 12 of these), I would suggest (if possible) to make a wheel that uses a similar treading style


You definitely want to drill the holes in the tread before you put it on the wheel. I recommend drilling the holes with a 3/16" or 7 (.201) drill bit. This is the cut and drill dimensions that we have found works the best for us.

We made a really quick drill guide for drilling our treads this season. I plan to make a much better version of the drill guide a SDS product in the future.

Yes, You should use thread lock on the screws.


In my experience, adding a ramp rate would help alot. These wheels don’t last long as others already said, and letting them scrub when accelerating excessively kills them even quicker. Ramp rate really helps the entire drivetrain last longer, reducing geartrain wear and power consumption too.

In addition to our drive wheels wearing, we are noticing a lot of wear on the drive gears. This is a picture of one of the motor pinion gear.

Has anyone seen this before? Again, only about 10 hours of practice time.

Again, ramp rates might be at play here. You may try switching to steel pinions?

They are steel. And we are implementing a ramp rate but looks like we need to replace all of our drive gears.

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This… should not be happening.
I assume everything is lubed up appropriately and there isn’t any excessive amount of abrasive particulates in the gear-train? everything seemed to mesh well when first assembled? Center to center distances felt correct (spun freely with minimal backlash)?

Ramp rates are going to help with tooth loading, but the (lack of a) ramp rate is highly unlikely to be the root cause of the above issue.

You do know that you are supposed to keep gears/moving parts well lubricated right?